Pruning large branches at home is absolutely doable for a capable DIYer — provided you have the right tools, use safe technique, and recognise when a job is beyond what's safe to attempt yourself. For branches over roughly 100 mm in diameter, or anything near power lines or above head height, you should seriously consider calling a qualified arborist.
The Essential Tool Kit for Large Branch Pruning
Having the correct tools makes the job safer, cleaner, and less damaging to your tree. Using the wrong tool — or a blunt one — can crush bark, introduce disease, and leave your tree vulnerable to rot.
Hand Pruning Saw
A hand pruning saw (also called a folding or bow saw) is your go-to for branches up to around 75–100 mm in diameter. Look for a curved blade with aggressive, hardened teeth — these cut on the pull stroke and move through green wood efficiently. Quality brands like Silky (widely available at Mitre 10 and Bunnings) are popular with NZ homeowners and professionals alike.
Loppers
Loppers (long-handled pruning shears) are ideal for branches up to about 40–50 mm thick. Compound-action loppers reduce the effort required and are kinder on your joints. Keep the blades sharp and clean — blunt loppers crush rather than cut.
Pole Pruner or Pole Saw
A pole pruner lets you reach branches 3–5 metres up without a ladder. Manual pole saws are safer for occasional home use; electric or battery-powered pole saws are faster but require more care. Always check overhead for power lines before extending a pole tool — contact with lines can be fatal.
Chainsaw (Use With Caution)
For branches over 100 mm diameter, a chainsaw is the most effective cutting tool. However, chainsaws are high-risk equipment. In New Zealand, WorkSafe NZ provides guidance on safe chainsaw use, and untrained operators are at serious risk of kickback injury. If you're not experienced with a chainsaw, this is the point to call a professional.
Pruning Shears (Secateurs)
Secateurs handle smaller growth up to about 20 mm and are useful for tidying up after the main cuts. Keep a pair on your belt throughout the job.
Safety Gear — Non-Negotiable
Before you pick up any saw, gear up properly:
- Helmet with face shield or safety glasses — falling bark and sawdust are serious eye hazards
- Cut-resistant gloves — protect hands from blades and rough bark
- Steel-capped boots — protect feet from dropped branches and tools
- Hearing protection — essential if using a chainsaw or electric saw
- Hi-vis vest — useful if working near a road or driveway
- Chainsaw chaps — mandatory if operating a chainsaw; these are cut-resistant leg protectors
Refer to WorkSafe NZ for detailed guidance on personal protective equipment for tree work.
The Three-Cut Method for Large Branches
Never try to cut a large branch in a single pass from the top — the weight will cause it to tear downward, stripping bark from the trunk and leaving a wound that's slow to heal. Use the three-cut method:
- Undercut — Make a cut from below, about 30–40 cm from the trunk, cutting roughly one-third of the way through.
- Top cut — Move 2–3 cm further out from the trunk and cut from above until the branch falls free. The undercut prevents tearing.
- Final cut — Remove the remaining stub by cutting just outside the branch collar (the swollen ring of tissue where the branch meets the trunk). Do not cut flush with the trunk — the collar contains the tissue that seals the wound.
Avoid applying wound sealants or paint to cuts. Current best practice, supported by arboricultural research, is to leave clean cuts to compartmentalise naturally.
Tool Maintenance Tips
| Tool | Maintenance | Frequency |
|---|---|---|
| Secateurs & loppers | Clean, oil pivot, sharpen blade | After each use |
| Hand saw | Wipe clean, store dry | After each use |
| Chainsaw | Check chain tension, sharpen, check bar oil | Before each use |
| Pole saw | Inspect joints, clean blade | After each use |
Always wipe blades with a diluted disinfectant solution (such as methylated spirits) between trees to avoid spreading fungal or bacterial disease.
What You Can and Can't Do Legally
In New Zealand, most pruning on your own property is straightforward, but check with your local council before removing or heavily pruning any tree that may be protected under a District Plan or covered by a notable tree schedule. Some trees require a resource consent before work begins — your council's planning team can advise.
If branches overhang a neighbour's property, you are generally entitled to trim to the boundary line, but it's good practice (and good neighbourly relations) to discuss it first.
Power lines are a strict no-go zone. Any pruning within 4 metres of a power line must be carried out by a line-approved contractor. Contact your lines company — never attempt this yourself.
When to Call a Professional
Call a qualified arborist when:
- Branches are over 100 mm diameter or the tree is large and mature
- Work is near or above power lines
- The branch is dead, diseased, or structurally compromised (unpredictable failure risk)
- You need to work above 3 metres or use a ladder in a tree
- The tree may be protected under your District Plan
- You're unsure about the health or structure of the tree
A qualified arborist will have the training, equipment, and insurance to handle complex jobs safely. You can find experienced local arborists on tradedirectory.co.nz.
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