What Tools Do You Actually Need to Tile a Small Bathroom?

Tiling a small bathroom is one of the more achievable DIY projects for a handy homeowner — but having the right tools makes the difference between a result you're proud of and one you want to hide behind a shower curtain. Here's a practical rundown of what you'll actually need, broken into must-haves and nice-to-haves.

The Essential Cutting Tools

Cutting tiles accurately is where most beginners struggle, so don't skimp here.

• Manual tile scorer/snap cutter – For straight cuts on ceramic wall tiles, a good-quality manual snap cutter is fast and affordable. You can hire or buy one from Bunnings or Mitre 10.
• Angle grinder with a diamond blade – Essential for curved cuts around pipes, toilet flanges, and corners. Always wear eye protection and a dust mask. Keep the blade wet or work outdoors where possible.
• Wet tile saw (diamond blade) – If you're using porcelain or large-format tiles (increasingly popular in NZ bathrooms), a wet saw gives cleaner, more accurate cuts. These are well worth hiring for a weekend job.
• Tile nippers – For small nibble cuts around fittings. Cheap and surprisingly handy.

Adhesive and Bedding Tools

Getting tiles to stick properly — and stay stuck in a wet bathroom environment — depends on the right trowels and technique.

• Notched trowel – This is the key tool for spreading tile adhesive (also called tile cement or tile glue). The notch size matters: a 6 mm V-notch suits most wall tiles; a 10–12 mm square notch is better for floor tiles or larger formats. Check the adhesive manufacturer's instructions — brands like Ardex and Mapei specify the correct notch size on their packaging.
• Margin trowel or bucket trowel – For scooping and mixing adhesive.
• Grout float – A rubber-faced float for pressing grout into joints and wiping off the excess. Don't try to use a trowel for this — you'll scratch your tiles.
• Mixing paddle and drill – For mixing adhesive and grout to the right consistency. A standard corded drill works fine.

Layout and Levelling Tools

A bathroom that looks straight and level starts with careful planning before a single tile goes up.

• Spirit level (at least 600 mm long) – Check your walls and floor are plumb and level before you start. Bathroom substrates in older NZ homes can be surprisingly out of square.
• Laser level – Not essential, but very helpful for setting a consistent horizontal datum line across walls.
• Tape measure and pencil – For marking out your layout.
• Chalk line – For snapping long straight reference lines across floors.
• Set square – To check corners are at 90°.

Spacing and Finishing Tools

• Tile spacers – Plastic crosses or T-spacers keep your grout joints consistent. Common sizes are 2 mm, 3 mm, and 5 mm. Choose based on your tile size and the look you want.
• Rubber mallet – For tapping tiles gently into the adhesive bed without cracking them.
• Grout sponge and bucket – For cleaning excess grout off tile faces before it sets hard. Have plenty of clean water on hand.
• Caulking gun – Silicone sealant (not grout) must be used at all internal corners and junctions between the floor and wall. This is a key requirement under NZS 4223 and good waterproofing practice — grout cracks at movement joints, silicone flexes. Use a sanitary-grade silicone suited to wet areas.

Waterproofing Tools

In NZ bathrooms, the substrate must be properly waterproofed before tiling — this is a Building Code requirement under Clause E3 (Internal Moisture). If you're doing your own waterproofing membrane, you'll need:

• A paint roller and brush for applying liquid membrane (such as products from Sika or Ardex)
• Reinforcing tape for corners and joints
• A notched squeegee if using a self-levelling membrane on the floor

Note: In some situations, waterproofing work in bathrooms may need to be done or signed off by a Licensed Building Practitioner (LBP). Check with your local council and visit MBIE Building Performance for guidance on what requires a building consent.

A Handy Tool Checklist

When to Call a Professional

Tiling itself is not restricted work in NZ, so homeowners can legally do it themselves. However, there are important exceptions:

• Plumbing connections (moving waste pipes, relocating a shower drain, or altering water supply) must be done by a licensed plumber registered with the Plumbers, Gasfitters and Drainlayers Board.
• Electrical work (adding or moving a heat lamp, extractor fan wiring, or heated floor connections) must be carried out by a registered electrician — see the Electrical Workers Registration Board.
• If your bathroom substrate (the wall or floor base) is damaged, soft, or suspect, get a professional to assess it before tiling over it. Tiling over a failing substrate is one of the most common — and costly — DIY mistakes.
• If you're unsure about waterproofing requirements or whether your project needs a building consent, contact your local council or an LBP.

For a stress-free result, consider hiring a qualified local tiler — you can find experienced tilers in your area on tradedirectory.co.nz.

Sources & Further Reading

• MBIE Building Performance – Building Code Clause E3 (Internal Moisture)
• BRANZ – Tiling and Wet Area Guidance
• Ardex NZ – Tile Adhesives and Waterproofing Products
• Mapei NZ – Tile Installation Systems
• Sika NZ – Waterproofing and Sealants
• WorkSafe NZ – Safe Use of Power Tools