Getting started with bricklaying doesn't require a van full of gear, but having the right tools from the outset makes a huge difference to the quality and enjoyment of your work. For most small DIY projects — a garden wall, a letterbox plinth, or a BBQ surround — you can get set up with around a dozen tools without spending a fortune.
The Essential Bricklaying Tool Kit
Below are the tools you genuinely need before you mix your first batch of mortar.
Laying and Spreading Tools
- Brick trowel – Your most-used tool. A good-quality 280–300 mm London-pattern trowel lets you pick up, spread, and furrow mortar efficiently. Don't skimp here; a cheap trowel will flex and fatigue your wrist.
- Pointing trowel – Smaller (100–150 mm) and used for filling and finishing mortar joints. Essential for neat, weathertight pointing.
- Margin trowel – A flat, rectangular trowel handy for mixing small amounts of mortar and cleaning up tight spots.
Measuring and Levelling
- Spirit level – At least 1.2 m long. Every course of bricks must be checked for level and plumb. A longer level catches errors over a greater distance.
- Builder's square – For checking 90-degree corners. You can make a timber one using the 3-4-5 triangle rule if you don't want to buy one.
- Tape measure – A 5–8 m steel tape is ideal.
- Gauge rod – A straight timber batten marked at regular intervals (typically 75 mm brick + 10 mm mortar = 85 mm per course). You can make your own from a piece of DAR timber.
Alignment and Line Tools
- String line and pins (or line blocks) – A taut string line is how you keep each course straight and at a consistent height. Line blocks clip onto the corners of your brickwork and hold the line without nails.
- Corner blocks or profiles – Timber profiles set at each end of a wall allow you to run a string line for every course without constantly re-measuring.
Cutting Tools
- Bolster chisel (75–100 mm wide) and club hammer – For splitting bricks by hand. This is the beginner-friendly method for occasional cuts.
- Angle grinder with a diamond blade – Gives cleaner, more accurate cuts, especially for half-bricks and specials. Always use appropriate PPE (see safety note below).
- Brick splitter/guillotine – If you're hiring, a manual brick splitter is fast and safe for straight cuts. Worth hiring from a tool hire shop for larger jobs.
Mixing and Mortar Tools
- Mixing trough or wheelbarrow – A sturdy builder's trough (around 90 litres) is ideal for hand-mixing mortar.
- Brick jointer / jointing iron – A curved or flat steel bar used to finish (rake or round) mortar joints once the mortar has partially set. The profile you choose affects both appearance and weather resistance.
- Stiff-bristle brush – For brushing excess mortar off brick faces before it fully cures.
Cleaning and Finishing
- Sponge and bucket – For wiping mortar smears off brick faces while still fresh.
- Safety gear – See the safety section below.
Useful but Not Essential for Beginners
| Tool | Why You Might Skip It |
|---|---|
| Electric mortar mixer | Overkill for small jobs; hand-mix in a trough |
| Laser level | Helpful but a good spirit level does the job |
| Brick saw (bench saw) | Hire one if needed rather than buying |
| Jointing machine | Only worthwhile on large areas of brickwork |
A Note on Mortar
For most NZ residential brickwork, a standard 1:1:6 mix (cement : lime : sand) or a 1:4 or 1:5 cement:sand mix is commonly used, though always check the mortar specification against the brick type and exposure zone. Pre-mixed mortar products are available from stores like Bunnings and Mitre 10 and are a convenient option for small beginner projects.
Safety First
Bricklaying involves real hazards that beginners must take seriously:
- Cement burns – Fresh mortar and cement are highly alkaline and can cause serious skin burns with prolonged contact. Always wear waterproof gloves, long sleeves, and safety glasses.
- Dust – Cutting bricks generates silica dust, which is a serious lung hazard. Always wear a P2-rated dust mask (or better, a half-face respirator) when cutting, and cut outdoors or in a well-ventilated area. WorkSafe NZ has clear guidance on silica dust risks.
- Manual handling – Bricks are heavy and repetitive lifting causes back injuries. Lift correctly and keep stacks at a sensible working height.
- Eye protection – Mandatory when cutting or chiselling.
Do You Need a Building Consent?
This is an important question for NZ homeowners. Under the NZ Building Code and the Building Act 2004, some brickwork requires a building consent — for example, structural brick walls or retaining walls over certain heights. Low garden walls and decorative features may fall under Schedule 1 exemptions, but rules vary by council and site conditions. Always check with your local council before starting. MBIE Building Performance has a useful summary of what work is exempt.
When to Call a Professional
Bricklaying is a skilled trade, and while small garden projects are achievable for a capable DIYer, there are situations where you should bring in a qualified bricklayer:
- Structural walls – Any brickwork that forms part of your home's structure must comply with NZS 3604 (for timber-framed buildings) or relevant masonry standards, and typically requires a licensed building practitioner. Check LBP for licensed tradespeople.
- Earthquake-prone areas – Much of New Zealand sits in moderate-to-high seismic zones. Masonry construction has specific engineering requirements in these areas.
- Retaining walls over 1.5 m – Generally require consent and may need engineering sign-off.
- Any work you're unsure about – A professional assessment upfront is far cheaper than fixing a poorly built wall later.
You can find qualified, local bricklayers on tradedirectory.co.nz to get advice or a quote.
Licensed Building Practitioner (LBP)
