Getting your rooms ready before the flooring installer turns up is one of the best things you can do to keep your project on time and on budget. Most installers charge by the hour or the job, so the less time they spend moving furniture or dealing with surprises, the better the outcome for everyone. Here's a straightforward checklist of what to do in the days leading up to installation day.
Clear the Room Completely
Your installer needs a completely empty space to work in. Remove all furniture, rugs, curtains and any freestanding items before they arrive. This includes beds, wardrobes, dining tables, couches and appliances. Most flooring installers do not include furniture removal in their quote unless specifically agreed — check your contract.
- Disassemble flat-pack furniture where possible to make moving easier.
- Take doors off their hinges if they swing into the room — your installer may need to trim them anyway once the new floor raises the height.
- Remove any existing floor coverings (carpet, vinyl, tiles) if this hasn't been included in your quote. Confirm with your installer what they expect you to have done beforehand.
Protect What Stays in the House
Flooring work creates dust, noise and foot traffic. Cover furniture stored in adjacent rooms with drop sheets, and move fragile items well out of the way. If you have pets, arrange for them to be kept in a separate area or off-site — both for their safety and so they don't interfere with adhesives or freshly laid boards.
Check the Subfloor Condition
The condition of your subfloor is critical. A good installer will assess it when they arrive, but you can save time by checking a few things yourself:
- Moisture: NZ's variable climate — especially in older homes with suspended timber floors — means subfloor moisture is a common issue. Lift a corner of existing flooring and look for signs of dampness, mould or rot. BRANZ has useful guidance on moisture management in NZ homes.
- Levelness: Most flooring products require a subfloor that is flat to within a tolerance specified by the flooring manufacturer or installer — commonly around 3 mm over a set span, but confirm with your installer and the product manufacturer. Significant dips or humps may need grinding or filling before installation. Products like self-levelling compounds from Ardex or Mapei are commonly used for this.
- Squeaks and loose boards: Walk the floor and note any squeaky or springy spots. These should be fixed before new flooring goes down.
- Old adhesive or staples: If carpet has been removed, pull out any remaining staples and scrape up old adhesive residue.
If you're unsure about subfloor condition, let your installer know in advance so they can bring the right tools and materials.
Acclimatise Your Flooring Materials
Many flooring products — particularly solid timber, engineered timber and laminate — need to acclimatise to the room's temperature and humidity before installation. Your installer or the product manufacturer will specify how long this takes (commonly 48–72 hours). Store the boxes flat in the room where they'll be laid, away from direct sunlight and heat sources. Check the manufacturer's instructions, as requirements vary.
Sort Out Skirting Boards and Door Frames
Decide in advance whether you want your skirting boards removed and replaced, or whether your installer will use scotia or quad beading to cover the expansion gap. Removing skirting boards yourself beforehand can save on labour costs, but take care not to damage the wall lining — especially if you have GIB plasterboard walls, which can be easily dented.
Door frames and architraves may need to be undercut so the flooring slides neatly underneath. Your installer will usually handle this, but it helps to flag any tricky doorways in advance.
Plan for Access and Parking
Installers often arrive with large rolls of flooring, heavy boxes of boards, and bulky equipment. Make sure:
- There is clear vehicle access and a parking spot close to the entrance.
- Pathways from the vehicle to the work area are clear of obstacles.
- You have a plan for where waste materials (old carpet, offcuts) will go — check whether your installer removes waste or whether you need to arrange a skip bin.
Communicate Any Special Requirements
Before installation day, talk to your installer about:
| Item | Why It Matters |
|---|---|
| Underfloor heating | Some flooring products are not compatible; check with the manufacturer |
| Wet areas (bathrooms, laundries) | Waterproofing must comply with NZ Building Code clause E3 |
| Existing floor height | Transitions to adjacent rooms or tiles need to be planned |
| Healthy Homes requirements | Rental properties must meet Tenancy Services standards for insulation and moisture |
When to Call a Professional
Flooring installation itself is not restricted trade work in New Zealand, so homeowners can legally lay their own floors. However, if your preparation uncovers plumbing leaks, electrical cables in the subfloor, or structural concerns, stop and call the appropriate licensed tradesperson. Plumbing and drainlaying work must be carried out by a licensed professional registered with the Plumbers Gasfitters & Drainlayers Board, and electrical work must be done by someone registered with the Electrical Workers Registration Board.
For the flooring itself, a qualified installer will get the job done faster, with the right tools, and with a finish that lasts. You can find experienced local flooring installers on tradedirectory.co.nz.
