Getting your home ready before a flooring installer arrives is one of the best things you can do to keep the job on schedule and on budget. A well-prepared site means your installer can focus on laying the floor rather than sorting out problems that could have been dealt with beforehand. Here's a practical guide for NZ homeowners.
Clear the Rooms Completely
Your first job is to remove all furniture, rugs, and freestanding items from every room being floored. Most flooring installers do not include furniture removal in their quote, so check this with your tradesperson beforehand. Heavy items like pianos, pool tables, and large appliances may need specialist movers.
- Remove curtains and drapes if they hang low enough to touch the floor
- Take off any door stops or low-profile door hardware that could get in the way
- Clear hallways and access routes so the installer can move materials safely
Remove Old Flooring (If Required)
Discuss with your installer whether they will strip out the existing floor covering or whether that's your responsibility. Removing old carpet, vinyl, or tiles yourself can save money, but there are important things to check first:
- Asbestos: Vinyl tiles, vinyl sheet, and adhesives installed before the mid-1980s may contain asbestos. Do not sand, scrape, or disturb these materials without getting them tested first. WorkSafe NZ has clear guidance on managing asbestos in homes.
- Old adhesive residue left on concrete subfloors may need grinding back — this is usually a job for the installer or a specialist.
Check and Prepare the Subfloor
The subfloor is the foundation of any good flooring job. A subfloor that is uneven, damp, or structurally unsound will cause problems no matter how good the new flooring is.
Levelness
Most floating floors and tiles require the subfloor to be flat to within 3 mm over a 1.8 m straightedge (check your product's specification, as this varies). Use a long spirit level or straightedge to identify high and low spots. Self-levelling compounds from suppliers like Ardex or Mapei can fix low spots on concrete; high spots may need grinding.
Moisture Testing
Moisture is one of the biggest causes of flooring failure in New Zealand, particularly in older homes with no underfloor vapour barrier. Your installer should carry out moisture testing, but you can help by:
- Ensuring any underfloor ventilation is clear and working
- Checking for signs of dampness, staining, or mould under the house
- Asking your installer about moisture requirements for your chosen product
The BRANZ website has useful information on moisture management in NZ homes.
Structural Integrity
Walk the subfloor and note any squeaky, springy, or soft boards. Loose floorboards should be re-nailed or screwed down. Rotted or damaged timber needs replacing before new flooring goes over the top — this may require a Licensed Building Practitioner depending on the extent of the work.
Acclimatise Your Flooring Materials
Timber and engineered wood floors need time to acclimatise to your home's temperature and humidity before installation. This is especially important in New Zealand where conditions vary significantly between regions and seasons. Your installer will advise on how long — typically 48–72 hours minimum — and where to store the materials (usually flat, inside the room where they'll be laid).
Sort Out Any Plumbing, Electrical or Heating Work First
If you're having underfloor heating installed, or if any plumbing or electrical work needs to happen in the floor space, this must be completed and signed off before flooring goes down.
- Underfloor heating elements must be installed by a registered electrician — this is restricted electrical work under the Electrical Workers Registration Board (EWRB) rules.
- Any plumbing in the floor (e.g. in-slab hydronic heating or waste pipes) must be done by a licensed plumber or drainlayer — see the Plumbers, Gasfitters and Drainlayers Board for licensing requirements.
Never lay flooring over work that hasn't been inspected and signed off.
Measure Up and Confirm Your Order
Double-check that the correct quantity of flooring has been ordered, including an allowance for waste (typically 10% for straight runs, more for diagonal or herringbone patterns). Confirm the delivery date so materials arrive before the installer is due to start.
Prepare the Space on the Day
| Task | Who Does It | Timing |
|---|---|---|
| Clear furniture | Homeowner | Day before |
| Remove old floor covering | Homeowner or installer (confirm) | Day before |
| Subfloor repairs | LBP or installer | Before install day |
| Acclimatise flooring | Homeowner (store materials) | 48–72 hrs before |
| Electrical/plumbing sign-off | Licensed tradesperson | Before install day |
| Clear access and parking | Homeowner | Morning of install |
On the day, make sure the installer has easy access to the property, a clear path to carry materials, and somewhere to park a van or trailer. Keep pets and children out of the work area for safety.
When to Call a Professional
If you discover subfloor rot, structural damage, suspected asbestos, or significant moisture issues during your preparation, stop and get expert advice before proceeding. A Licensed Building Practitioner can assess structural subfloor issues, and a specialist asbestos assessor should be consulted for any suspected hazardous materials. For underfloor heating or any electrical work, always use a registered electrician.
A qualified flooring installer will also be able to spot problems you might have missed — it's worth having a pre-start walkthrough with them before the job begins. You can find experienced local flooring installers on tradedirectory.co.nz.
