Getting your bathroom ready before the tiler arrives is one of the best things you can do to keep the job running smoothly and on budget. A well-prepared space means your tradesperson can get straight to work rather than spending billable time clearing clutter or waiting on other trades. Here's a practical checklist for NZ homeowners.
Clear the Room Completely
Remove everything from the bathroom — towels, toiletries, bath mats, toilet rolls, shelving, mirrors, and any freestanding furniture. The tiler needs unobstructed access to every wall and floor surface. Even items that seem out of the way can slow things down or get damaged by dust and adhesive splatter.
If your vanity, toilet or bath needs to come out for the tiling work, discuss this with your tiler beforehand. Removing and reinstating plumbing fixtures is restricted work under the Plumbers, Gasfitters and Drainlayers Act 2006 and must be carried out by a licensed plumber — not the tiler and not yourself. Check with the Plumbers Gasfitters & Drainlayers Board if you're unsure what's involved.
Make Sure Other Trades Are Finished First
Tiling should be one of the last trades in a bathroom renovation. Before the tiler arrives, confirm that:
- Plumbing rough-in (pipes, waste outlets, shower mixer) is complete and signed off
- Electrical rough-in (exhaust fan wiring, heated towel rail, lighting) is done — electrical work must be carried out by a registered electrician under the Electrical Workers Registration Board rules
- Waterproofing is applied and fully cured — this is critical under NZ Building Code clause E3 (Internal Moisture). In most cases your tiler will apply the waterproof membrane, but confirm who is responsible before work starts
- Any wall framing, stopping or substrate work is complete and dry
If you're using a GIB Aqualine or similar moisture-resistant plasterboard, make sure it's correctly installed and that all stopping compounds are fully dry. Check GIB's technical guidance for recommended substrates in wet areas.
Check the Substrate Is Sound and Flat
Tiles need a solid, flat, stable surface to bond to. Walk around the room and check for:
- Soft or spongy spots in the floor — these may indicate moisture damage or inadequate substrate
- High or low points — most tilers work to a tolerance of around 3 mm over a 1.8 m straightedge
- Loose or poorly fixed sheeting — any movement will eventually crack grout or tiles
If you spot problems, flag them with your tiler before work starts. Fixing substrate issues mid-job costs more than addressing them upfront. Products like Ardex or Mapei floor levelling compounds are commonly used to correct uneven floors.
Confirm Your Tile and Material Selections
Have all your tiles, grout, and trim pieces on site and accounted for before the tiler's start date. Check the following:
| Item | What to Check |
|---|---|
| Tiles | Correct quantity (including 10–15% wastage allowance), same batch number |
| Grout | Colour confirmed, sufficient quantity |
| Trim/edge profiles | Correct length and finish |
| Adhesive | Your tiler will usually supply this, but confirm |
| Silicone sealant | Colour matched to grout |
Mismatched batch numbers can cause visible colour variation between tiles — always buy from the same batch. If you're sourcing tiles yourself, talk to your tiler first about suitable tile sizes and formats for your space.
Ensure Good Ventilation and Lighting
Tiling adhesives, waterproofing membranes and grouts can release fumes, and many products require specific temperature and humidity conditions to cure correctly. Make sure the bathroom has adequate ventilation — open windows or run the exhaust fan. WorkSafe NZ has guidance on working safely with construction products in enclosed spaces.
Good lighting also helps the tiler spot lippage (uneven tile edges) and alignment issues as they work. If the bathroom lighting is poor, let your tiler know so they can bring additional task lighting.
Protect the Rest of Your Home
Tiling is a dusty, messy job. Lay down dust sheets or old cardboard along hallways and in adjoining rooms. If you have timber or vinyl flooring outside the bathroom, protect it from foot traffic, dropped tools and adhesive drips. Discuss with your tiler whether they'll seal off the doorway with a dust barrier.
Arrange Access and Parking
Make sure your tiler can park close to the house — they'll be carrying heavy boxes of tiles, buckets of adhesive and equipment. Let them know the best entry point and whether there are any access codes or gate locks to deal with. If you're not going to be home, arrange a key or code handover in advance.
When to Call a Professional
While homeowners can do the preparation work above, the tiling itself — especially in wet areas — is best left to a qualified tiler. Waterproofing in showers and wet areas is directly linked to NZ Building Code compliance, and poor workmanship can lead to costly water damage. For any work involving plumbing or electrical connections, you must use a licensed tradesperson. You can find qualified local tilers on tradedirectory.co.nz.
If your bathroom renovation requires a building consent, check with your local council before work begins. Some bathroom work may fall under Schedule 1 exemptions, but this varies — MBIE Building Performance has clear guidance on when consent is required.
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