Fixing palings to fence rails sounds straightforward, but using the wrong fasteners or technique leads to palings splitting, popping off, or warping within a season or two. Get it right from the start and your fence will stay solid and tidy for many years.
Choose the Right Fasteners
The single biggest mistake DIYers make is using the wrong type of nail or screw. Timber fencing is exposed to rain, sun, and humidity year-round — especially in coastal or high-rainfall regions — so corrosion-resistant fasteners are essential.
- Hot-dipped galvanised (HDG) nails or screws are the standard choice for most NZ timber fencing. Look for the HDG marking.
- Stainless steel fasteners are worth the extra cost near the coast or in areas with salt air, where standard galvanising can still corrode over time.
- Avoid bright (uncoated) steel nails or zinc electroplated screws outdoors — they will rust and stain the timber within months.
- For treated timber (H3.2 or H4 rated, which is standard for ground-contact or exposed fencing), always check the treatment manufacturer's recommendation, as some treatments are more aggressive on metal. HDG or stainless steel is generally specified.
Check the BRANZ Good Practice Guide for timber framing and cladding fastener guidance, which applies equally to fencing.
Nails vs Screws — Which Is Better?
| Nails | Screws | |
|---|---|---|
| Speed | Faster to install | Slower by hand; faster with a driver |
| Holding power | Good shear strength | Superior withdrawal (pull-out) strength |
| Splitting risk | Higher if not pre-drilled | Lower, especially with self-drilling tips |
| Adjustability | Hard to remove cleanly | Easy to back out and reposition |
| Cost | Lower | Slightly higher |
For most residential paling fences, 75 mm HDG flat-head nails (hand or gun-driven) are the traditional choice and work well. 50–65 mm HDG or stainless decking/fencing screws are increasingly popular because they grip better and make it easy to straighten a paling if needed. If you're using a nail gun, make sure the nails loaded are HDG or stainless — not bright steel.
Correct Nail and Screw Placement
- Fix each paling with two fasteners per rail — one near the top edge and one near the bottom edge of the paling, roughly 15–20 mm in from the paling's edge. This prevents the paling from twisting or cupping.
- Don't nail or screw through the centre of the paling width — this restricts the timber's natural movement and can cause splitting as the wood expands and contracts.
- Keep fasteners at least 25 mm from the end of a paling to avoid splitting the grain.
- If you're hand-nailing hardwood palings (e.g. macrocarpa or kwila), pre-drill a pilot hole slightly smaller than the nail shank to prevent splitting.
- Drive nails or screws flush with the surface — don't countersink deeply, as this creates a pocket that holds moisture.
Spacing Palings Correctly
Paling spacing affects both the look and the longevity of your fence:
- Lapped (overlapping) palings: Typically 100 mm wide palings are lapped by 10–15 mm. This gives good privacy and sheds water well.
- Spaced (open) palings: Leave a consistent gap — a spare paling offcut makes a handy spacer. Allow for the fact that green or freshly treated timber will shrink as it dries; a 5–10 mm gap on green timber may close up significantly.
- Use a string line or chalk line along the top of the rails to keep paling heights consistent before you start fixing.
- Check every few palings with a spirit level to make sure you haven't drifted.
Rail Positioning and Paling Overhang
- Standard paling fences use two or three rails depending on fence height. A 1.2 m fence typically uses two rails; 1.8 m fences generally need three rails for rigidity.
- Position the top rail close enough to the top of the palings that the paling ends are supported — a top overhang of 25–50 mm above the top rail is typical and helps shed water away from the rail.
- The bottom of the palings should ideally sit at least 50 mm above ground level to reduce moisture uptake and rot, even with treated timber.
Timber Treatment and Finishing
All timber used in fencing that is exposed to the weather should be treated to at least H3.2 (above-ground exposed). Check the MBIE Building Performance website for current treatment requirements applicable to your situation. Posts in the ground require H4 or H5 treatment. Check the MBIE Building Performance website for guidance on acceptable solutions under the Building Code.
Once fixed, seal or paint the fence promptly — bare timber left uncoated will grey and check (crack) quickly in the NZ sun. Resene, Dulux, and Wattyl all offer exterior timber stains and paints suited to fencing. Follow the manufacturer's preparation and application instructions for best results.
You'll find a good range of treated timber palings, rails, fasteners, and finishing products at Bunnings, Mitre 10, and PlaceMakers.
When to Call a Professional
Fencing is generally not restricted building work under the NZ Building Code, and most homeowners can tackle paling replacement or a straightforward fence build themselves. However, consider calling a qualified fencer if:
- Your fence is over 2 metres high — at this height, a building consent may be required depending on your council and site conditions. Always check with your local council before starting.
- The fence is on or near a boundary dispute — a licensed surveyor may need to confirm the boundary line first.
- You're working near overhead power lines — contact your lines company and check WorkSafe NZ safe-distance requirements before doing any work in the vicinity.
- The job is large, the ground is difficult, or you simply want it done to a professional standard.
You can find experienced, local fencing contractors on tradedirectory.co.nz.
