Yes, you can paint a roof with the gutters still attached — and most DIYers do exactly that. However, there are genuine safety risks working at height, plus practical challenges around masking, surface prep, and paint overspray that you need to plan for carefully before you climb up there.
Understanding the Risks of Working at Height
Roof work is one of the leading causes of serious injury in New Zealand. Even a single-storey fall can be fatal. WorkSafe NZ classifies roof work as working at height, and their guidelines require that you take all practicable steps to prevent a fall — whether you're a professional or a homeowner doing DIY.
Before you start, ask yourself:
- Is the roof pitch (slope) manageable? Anything steeper than about 25° becomes significantly more hazardous.
- Is the roofing material slippery when wet or dusty? Corrugated iron and painted surfaces can be extremely slick.
- Do you have the right equipment — a sturdy ladder, roof brackets or a chicken ladder (roof hook ladder), and ideally a safety harness?
- Will you be working alone? Always have someone on the ground when working at height.
Never lean a ladder against a gutter to access the roof — gutters are not designed to bear body weight and can collapse, causing a serious fall.
Do the Gutters Need to Come Off?
In most cases, no — gutters do not need to be removed to paint a roof. Experienced roof painters work around them routinely. However, leaving gutters in place does mean:
- You'll need to carefully mask the gutters to protect them from paint overspray, especially if using a spray gun.
- The area directly behind and beneath the gutter fascia may be harder to reach and coat properly.
- Any paint that gets into the gutters and downpipes could potentially block them if it pools and dries — so masking is essential.
If your gutters are old, sagging, or due for replacement, it may make sense to remove and replace them before painting, so the fascia boards underneath can be properly coated at the same time. Talk to a local tradesperson if you're unsure — you can find qualified roof painters on tradedirectory.co.nz.
Surface Preparation — The Most Important Step
A paint job is only as good as the prep underneath it. For iron or steel roofs, this typically means:
- Washing the roof thoroughly — a water blaster (pressure washer) is ideal for removing lichen, moss, dirt, and old flaking paint. Allow the surface to dry completely before painting.
- Treating moss and lichen — apply a suitable biocide or moss treatment and allow it to work before washing off. Check the product label for dwell time.
- Sanding or wire-brushing any rust spots, then applying a rust-inhibiting primer to bare metal areas.
- Checking for loose screws or fixings — re-drive or replace any that have backed out.
For concrete or terracotta tiles, preparation is similar but you'll also need to check for cracked or broken tiles and replace them before painting.
Always check the paint manufacturer's technical data sheet for the correct primer and topcoat system for your roof type. Resene and Dulux both offer roof paint systems with specific primers for iron, steel, and tile roofs.
Choosing the Right Paint
Use a paint specifically formulated for roofs — standard exterior wall paint is not suitable. Key considerations:
| Roof Type | Recommended Product Type |
|---|---|
| Corrugated iron / steel | Waterborne or solvent-based roof paint with rust inhibitor |
| Concrete tiles | Roof tile paint (breathable, flexible) |
| Terracotta tiles | Tile-specific sealer/paint system |
| Colorsteel® (pre-painted steel) | Manufacturer-approved topcoat system |
Check with Resene, Wattyl, or Dulux for product recommendations suited to your specific roof material and condition.
Protecting Your Gutters During Painting
- Use masking tape and plastic sheeting to cover the top edges and inside of gutters before you start.
- If spraying, extend the masking further — overspray travels further than you expect, especially on a breezy day.
- Never spray on a windy day — paint will drift onto windows, cladding, and neighbouring properties.
- Remove masking promptly after painting while the paint is still slightly tacky, to avoid peeling.
Safety Equipment Checklist
- Ladder — rated to at least 120 kg, in good condition, set at the correct angle (1:4 ratio)
- Roof hook ladder — essential for steeper pitches
- Safety harness and anchor point — strongly recommended for any roof work
- Non-slip footwear — rubber-soled boots
- Safety glasses — especially when pressure washing or spraying
- Gloves and appropriate clothing — some roof paints and primers contain solvents
- Sunscreen and hat — NZ UV levels are among the highest in the world
Refer to WorkSafe NZ for detailed guidance on working safely at height.
When to Call a Professional
Roof painting is not restricted work under NZ law — you don't need a licence to paint your own roof. However, you should seriously consider hiring a qualified roof painter if:
- Your roof is steeply pitched or difficult to access safely
- The roof area is large (fatigue increases fall risk)
- You don't have appropriate safety equipment
- There is significant rust, damage, or structural concerns
- You're unsure which paint system is right for your roof
- You want the job to last — a professional will know the correct prep and application techniques
A professional roof painter will also carry public liability insurance, giving you peace of mind. Find a local roof painter on tradedirectory.co.nz.
For any roofing work that involves structural repairs, flashings, or penetrations, check with MBIE Building Performance or your local council whether a building consent is required — painting alone generally doesn't, but repairs may.



Master Painters NZ member
Licensed Building Practitioner (LBP)
Roofing Association of NZ (RANZ)







