Why preparation matters
A good tiling job starts before the first tile is cut. The better your home is prepared, the less time the tiler spends shifting furniture, checking access, or waiting on decisions. That can reduce labour costs, help avoid mistakes, and make it easier for the tiler to work safely and accurately.
In New Zealand, where many homes are a mix of older villas, weatherboard houses, apartments and newer builds, the prep work can vary a lot from one job to the next. Bathrooms may need waterproofing details checked, kitchens can involve appliance removal, and outdoor tiling often depends on dry weather and a suitable substrate. A little organisation upfront can make a big difference.
Confirm the scope of the job first
Before you start moving furniture or ripping up old flooring, make sure you and the tiler are clear on exactly what is being done.
Ask for:
- A written quote that sets out labour, materials, GST, and any exclusions - The tile size, pattern, grout colour and edge finish agreed in advance - A clear note of who is supplying the tiles, adhesive, grout, trims and waterproofing products - Any prep work the tiler is expecting you or another trade to complete - A start date, estimated duration, and whether drying or curing times will affect the programme
If the job is more than a simple splashback or floor re-tile, get at least two or three written quotes. That helps you compare not only price but also what is included. A quote that looks cheaper can become expensive if it excludes surface levelling, waterproofing repairs, removal of old tiles, or disposal.
Check the tiler’s experience and references, and ask whether they are a member of any relevant industry body. Tiling itself is not a licensed trade in the same way electrical or gas work is, but quality, waterproofing knowledge and accurate installation matter enormously.
Check whether any consent or compliance issues apply
Most straightforward tiling jobs do not need a building consent. But some related work may trigger one, especially if the project involves structural changes, waterproofing in certain situations, or alterations to wet areas that affect building compliance.
Be aware of the following:
- **Waterproofing in bathrooms and showers** must be done correctly and in line with the Building Code and relevant standards - **Building work** such as removing walls, changing floor levels, or major bathroom alterations may need a building consent from your local council - **Electrical work** such as moving power points, lights, or heated towel rails must be done by a licensed electrical worker and may require certification under the Electrical Workers Registration Board framework - **Plumbing, gasfitting and drainlaying** are restricted work and must be completed by authorised people under the Plumbers, Gasfitters and Drainlayers Board rules
If you are unsure whether consent is needed, check with your council before work begins. It is much easier to clarify this early than to fix compliance issues after the fact.
Clear the room completely
For most tiling jobs, the room needs to be as empty as possible. This gives the tiler room to set out tiles, cut accurately, and work without damaging your belongings.
For floors
Remove:
- Furniture, rugs, stools and side tables - Freestanding appliances such as fridges, washing machines and dryers if the tiler is working nearby - Door mats, floor lamps and anything breakable on shelves - Floor vents, if they are removable and safe to take out
If a large appliance cannot be moved by yourself, ask the tiler in advance whether they expect you to arrange help. Do not assume they will shift heavy items unless it is included in the quote.
For walls and splashbacks
Remove:
- Wall art, mirrors and clocks near the work area - Items from benchtops, shelves and vanity tops - Curtains or blinds if they are likely to get dusty or in the way - Any mounted accessories that might be damaged by tile cutting or adhesive splatter
Pack breakables away well before the start date. Even careful tradespeople create dust, movement and vibration.
Make the site safe and easy to access
A tiler will usually need to carry tiles, tools, adhesive bags, water, cutting equipment and waste in and out of the property. Good access saves time and reduces the chance of damage.
Do this before they arrive:
- Clear driveways and paths so the tiler can unload easily - Make sure gates, side entrances and garage doors can be opened - Move pets away from the work zone and plan for noise and dust - Let the tiler know about steep driveways, narrow stairs or parking restrictions - Turn on exterior lights if the start time is early or access is through a dark area
If you live in an apartment or townhouse, check building rules about delivery times, lift use, loading zones and rubbish removal. In busy urban areas, parking can be a real issue, so it is worth sorting this out early.
Deal with the old surface properly
Some tilers include demolition and disposal in their quote; others do not. Make sure you know which applies.
If you are removing old tiles, vinyl, carpet or laminate yourself, check with the tiler first. In some cases, what looks like a simple DIY prep job can create extra problems.
Common issues to look for
- Loose tiles or cracked screeds - Water damage in the substrate - Mould behind old splashbacks or in bathrooms - Uneven floors that may need levelling compound - Rotted chipboard, swollen MDF or damaged plasterboard
Do not cover up a damaged surface and hope for the best. Tilers need a sound, level, clean base. If the substrate is not right, the finished job may crack, lift or fail early.
For older homes, especially those built before the 1980s, be cautious about hidden hazards such as asbestos-containing materials in vinyl, backing sheets or old adhesives. If you suspect asbestos, stop and get proper advice before disturbing it.
Prepare the substrate and room conditions
Tiles are only as good as the surface underneath them. A tiler may handle final prep, but the room should be in the right condition before they start.
Important checks
| Item | Why it matters | What the homeowner should do | |---|---|---| | Flatness | Tile lippage and uneven joints become more likely on an irregular surface | Ask the tiler whether levelling is needed before the job starts | | Cleanliness | Dust and grease affect adhesion | Vacuum, sweep and wipe surfaces as advised | | Dryness | Moisture can compromise adhesives and waterproofing | Fix leaks and allow surfaces to dry fully | | Temperature | Cold, damp conditions slow curing | Plan for suitable indoor conditions, especially in winter | | Movement | Substrates that flex can crack tiles | Confirm the base is suitable and structurally sound |
In NZ winters, especially in cooler regions or unheated homes, drying and curing can take longer. This can extend the programme, so don’t plan to use the room immediately after the tiles go in.
If the work is in a bathroom or shower, make sure any plumbing leaks are fixed before tiling begins. A tiler is not there to solve a leaking pipe, and tiling over a problem will only make repairs harder later.
Plan the tile layout and materials early
One of the biggest ways homeowners accidentally delay a tiling job is by leaving decisions too late.
Before the start date, confirm:
- Exact tile product, batch and quantity - Where the tiles will be laid and the finished height - The grout colour and width of joints - Direction of the tile pattern, such as straight lay, brick bond or herringbone - Where cuts will fall around doorways, fixtures and corners - Any feature strips, borders or niche details
If you are supplying the tiles yourself, order a little extra for offcuts, breakage and future repairs. A common rule is to allow additional material beyond the exact measured area, especially with patterned, large-format or natural stone tiles where wastage can be higher.
Keep all tile boxes together and check that the batch numbers match. Tiles from different batches can vary slightly in colour or shade, which may show once installed.
Sort out nearby trades and fixtures
Tiling often depends on other work being finished first. If the sequence is wrong, you can end up paying twice to undo or redo part of the job.
Common coordination points include:
- **Plumbers**: vanities, taps, shower mixers, wastes and toilet removal/reinstatement - **Electricians**: underfloor heating, heated towel rails, lights, power points and appliance connections - **Carpenters or builders**: damaged framing, door trims, skirtings or substrate repairs - **Painters**: wall prep and finishing after tiling where appropriate
Ask the tiler when they want the room ready. For example, a kitchen splashback is usually best done after benchtops are installed, but before final sealing and painting touch-ups. In a bathroom, waterproofing and tiling must be coordinated carefully with plumbing fit-off and any cabinetry work.
Protect the rest of the house
Tiling creates dust, sharp offcuts and some noise. A bit of containment will save you cleaning time later.
Before work begins:
- Put down drop sheets in nearby walkways if needed - Close doors to other rooms - Remove valuables and fragile items from adjacent spaces - Let neighbours know if the job will create significant noise, especially in apartments or terraces - Arrange bin space or skip access if waste removal is part of the job
If you have children or pets, make a clear plan for keeping them away from the work area. Tile saws, adhesives and sharp fragments are not suitable for curious hands or paws.
Think about weather and timing
In New Zealand, season and weather can affect tiling more than many homeowners expect.
- **Winter**: lower temperatures and higher humidity can slow adhesive and grout curing - **Summer**: heat can make some products set faster, so timing and working conditions matter - **Outdoor areas**: decks, patios and steps need a dry forecast and suitable temperature range - **Coastal homes**: salt air and moisture exposure can influence product choice and maintenance
If your project is outdoors, be realistic about the programme. Rain, cold snaps and wind can interrupt preparation, waterproofing or curing. Ask your tiler how weather may affect the job so you can plan accordingly.
What to have ready on the day
A simple checklist helps the first day run smoothly.
Have these ready:
- Keys, alarm codes or access instructions - The agreed quote and any updated notes - Confirmation of the tile selection and layout decisions - Water and power access for tools - A clear space for cutting, mixing and storing materials - Contact details for yourself or the decision-maker if questions arise
If you work during the day, make sure the tiler knows how to reach you quickly for approvals. Delays often happen when a small decision, like grout colour or trim placement, has to wait until evening.
Ask the right questions before work starts
A few direct questions can prevent expensive misunderstandings.
Ask your tiler:
- What prep work do you want me to complete? - Will you remove and dispose of the old tiles, or should I arrange that? - Do you expect any levelling or substrate repairs? - Are there any products or materials I need to buy before you arrive? - How long should I keep the room out of use after tiling? - Who will organise plumbing, electrical or waterproofing-related work if needed?
A professional tiler should be able to explain the process clearly and flag any risks before work starts.
Final checklist before the tiler arrives
Use this quick run-through the day before:
- The room is fully cleared - Access is easy and parking is sorted - Tiles, trims and consumables are on site - Any leaks, structural issues or electrical/plumbing tasks are addressed - The surface is clean, dry and ready - You have confirmed the layout and finish details - Pets, kids and neighbours are accounted for - You have the tiler’s contact details and the agreed start time
A well-prepared home helps the tiler work efficiently, reduces the chance of delays and gives you a better finish. For bigger jobs, especially bathrooms and kitchens, good preparation is just as important as the tiling itself.