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How Do I Work Out How Many Decking Boards I Need to Buy?

Calculate decking boards by measuring your deck area, accounting for board width, spacing gaps, and adding a 10–15% waste allowance for cuts and defects.

How Do I Work Out How Many Decking Boards I Need to Buy?

Working out how many decking boards you need is straightforward once you break it down into a few simple steps. Measure your deck area, account for the actual coverage each board provides (including the gap between boards), then add a waste allowance for cuts and any defective timber. Get this right and you'll avoid costly over-ordering or frustrating mid-project trips back to the hardware store.

Step 1 – Measure Your Deck Area

Start by measuring the length and width of your deck in metres. Multiply these together to get your total area in square metres (m²).

For example: a deck 6 m long × 4 m wide = 24 m².

If your deck has an irregular shape — an L-shape or a section cut around a post — break it into rectangles, calculate each section separately, then add them together.

Step 2 – Understand Your Board Dimensions

Decking boards in New Zealand are commonly sold in these sizes:

Nominal widthActual widthCommon thickness
90 mm~85 mm45 mm
140 mm~135 mm45 mm
190 mm~185 mm45 mm

Always use the actual (dressed) width, not the nominal size, in your calculations. Check the label or ask your supplier — Mitre 10, Bunnings, and PlaceMakers all stock a range of treated pine and hardwood decking.

Step 3 – Factor In the Gap Between Boards

Decking boards are never laid tight together. A 5–8 mm gap is standard in New Zealand to allow for drainage and timber movement as moisture levels change with our variable climate. This gap effectively reduces the coverage each board provides.

Effective cover per board = actual board width + gap

For example, a 140 mm board with a 6 mm gap has an effective cover of 146 mm (0.146 m).

Step 4 – Calculate the Number of Board Runs

Divide the deck width by the effective cover per board to find how many runs (rows) of boards you need:

Number of runs = deck width ÷ effective cover per board

Using our example: 4 m ÷ 0.146 m = 27.4 runs → round up to 28 runs

Always round up to the next whole number.

Step 5 – Work Out Board Lengths and Quantities

Decking boards are typically sold in standard lengths: 3.6 m, 4.2 m, 4.8 m, 5.4 m, and 6.0 m. Choose a length that suits your deck span to minimise joins and waste.

If your deck is 6 m long and you buy 6 m boards, each run needs one board. So 28 runs = 28 boards.

If your deck is 6 m long but you can only get 4.8 m boards, each run needs two boards with a join over a joist. In that case: 28 runs × 2 boards = 56 boards.

Step 6 – Add a Waste Allowance

Always add extra for:

  • End cuts and angled cuts (especially on diagonal or picture-frame layouts)
  • Defective boards — knots, splits, or bowing that make a board unusable
  • Future repairs — a few spare boards stored in a dry spot are invaluable if a board needs replacing years later

Standard waste allowance:

  • Straight lay: add 10%
  • Diagonal or feature lay: add 15%

Multiply your board count by 1.10 or 1.15 and round up.

Example (straight lay): 28 boards × 1.10 = 30.8 → buy 31 boards

Quick Reference Formula

Here's the full process in one flow:

  1. Area (m²) = length × width
  2. Effective cover (m) = actual board width + gap
  3. Runs = deck width ÷ effective cover (round up)
  4. Boards per run = deck length ÷ board length (round up)
  5. Total boards = runs × boards per run
  6. Final order = total boards × 1.10 (or 1.15 for diagonal)

Timber Treatment and the NZ Building Code

In New Zealand, outdoor decking timber must be treated to the correct hazard class for ground contact and weather exposure. The MBIE Building Performance guidelines and NZS 3640 specify treatment requirements. For most above-ground decking, H3.2 treated timber is the minimum; posts in or near the ground typically require H4 or H5. Always confirm with your supplier or a qualified deck builder.

Decks over 1.5 m above ground or attached to the house may require a building consent — check with your local council before starting. Schedule 1 of the Building Act lists some exemptions, but rules vary by council and site.

When to Call a Professional

If your deck is large, elevated, or structurally complex, it's worth having a qualified deck builder check your plans and calculations. A professional will also ensure your framing, joist spacing, and fixings comply with NZS 3604 (Timber-framed buildings) and your council's requirements. You can find experienced local deck builders on tradedirectory.co.nz. If your deck involves any electrical work (outdoor lighting, power points), that must be carried out by a registered electrician — see the Electrical Workers Registration Board for more information.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I measure in metres or millimetres when calculating decking boards?+

Work in metres for the overall area and board lengths, but convert board widths and gaps to metres too (e.g. 140 mm = 0.140 m). Keeping everything in the same unit avoids errors in your calculations.

How much gap should I leave between decking boards in New Zealand?+

A gap of 5–8 mm is standard for NZ conditions. This allows rainwater to drain and gives the timber room to expand and contract with seasonal moisture changes. Use offcuts or spacers to keep gaps consistent as you lay.

Does a diagonal decking layout need more boards?+

Yes. Laying boards at 45 degrees increases the number of cut ends and the amount of waste at the edges. Add at least 15% to your board count rather than the standard 10% for a straight lay.

What timber treatment level do I need for NZ decking?+

For above-ground decking boards, H3.2 treated timber is the typical minimum requirement. Posts set into or near the ground generally need H4 or H5 treatment. Always confirm the correct hazard class with your timber supplier or check MBIE Building Performance guidance.

Do I need a building consent to build a deck in New Zealand?+

It depends on the size and height of the deck. Some low-level decks are exempt under Schedule 1 of the Building Act, but rules vary between councils. Always check with your local council before starting work to confirm whether consent is required for your specific project.

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