Tiling behind a toilet without removing it completely is absolutely doable for a handy homeowner — it just takes patience, the right tools, and careful cutting. The key is working in sections, scribing tiles to fit around the pan and cistern, and making sure your waterproofing is not compromised in the process.
Assess the Job First
Before you reach for the tile adhesive, take a good look at what you're working with:
- How close is the toilet to the wall? If there's less than about 50–60 mm of clearance between the cistern and the wall, tiling in place becomes very difficult and you may need to at least remove the cistern lid or the cistern itself.
- Is the existing wall surface suitable? Bathroom walls should be a stable, moisture-resistant substrate. GIB Aqualine or similar moisture-resistant plasterboard is standard in NZ wet areas. If the existing surface is damaged or soft, it needs to be fixed first.
- Is there existing waterproofing? Under the NZ Building Code clause E3 (Internal Moisture), wet areas require waterproofing. If you're tiling a shower or bath surround, a licensed waterproofer or tiler should apply a compliant membrane. Behind a toilet (outside the wet zone) the requirements are less stringent, but good practice still applies.
Gather Your Tools and Materials
You'll need:
- Tiles and tile adhesive (use a flexible adhesive suitable for wet areas)
- Tile spacers
- Grout (use a mould-resistant grout for bathrooms)
- Angle grinder or wet tile saw
- Jigsaw with a tile-cutting blade (for awkward curves)
- Tape measure, pencil, and card stock for templates
- Notched trowel
- Grout float and sponge
- Silicone sealant for any junctions
For adhesive and grout, reputable NZ-available brands include products from Ardex and Mapei, both of which offer bathroom-specific systems. You'll find a good range at Bunnings, Mitre 10, or PlaceMakers.
Step-by-Step: Tiling Around the Toilet
1. Turn Off the Water Supply
Turn off the isolating valve (usually located on the wall or floor near the toilet base). Flush the toilet to empty the cistern. This reduces the risk of any accidental leaks while you're working.
2. Plan Your Layout
Dry-lay your tiles on the floor to work out your pattern and where cuts will fall. Ideally, avoid having very thin slivers of tile directly behind the pan — they look awkward and are hard to cut cleanly.
3. Make Card Templates for Awkward Cuts
This is the most important step. Cut pieces of card stock (cereal box cardboard works well) to trace the exact profile of the toilet base, cistern sides, and any pipe penetrations. Transfer these shapes onto your tiles before cutting. Take your time — measure twice, cut once.
4. Cut the Tiles
Use a wet tile saw for straight cuts and an angle grinder with a diamond blade or a jigsaw with a tile blade for curves. Always wear eye protection and a dust mask — tile dust is a respiratory hazard. WorkSafe NZ has guidance on working safely with silica-containing materials.
5. Work in Sections
Start with the tiles that go flat against the wall above and beside the cistern — these are usually the easiest. Then work down toward the more complex cuts around the pan base. Apply adhesive to the wall (not the tile) using a notched trowel, press tiles firmly, and use spacers to keep joints consistent.
6. Grout and Seal
Once adhesive has cured (check manufacturer's instructions — typically 24 hours), apply grout with a grout float, working it into the joints. Clean off excess with a damp sponge. At any junction between the tile and the toilet pan, cistern, or floor, use flexible silicone sealant rather than grout — this allows for movement and prevents cracking.
Waterproofing Considerations
If your tiling extends into a shower or bath wet zone, waterproofing must comply with the NZ Building Code. BRANZ publishes good guidance on wet area construction. Behind a toilet that sits outside the defined wet zone, a waterproof tile adhesive and mould-resistant grout are generally sufficient, but check with your local council if you're unsure about your specific situation.
Tips for a Professional Finish
- Match existing tiles if you're tiling only a section — take a tile sample to the store to find the closest match in size, colour, and finish.
- Consistent grout joints make a huge difference. Use the same spacer size as the existing tiling if you're extending it.
- Don't grout right to the floor — leave a small gap and fill with silicone where tiles meet the floor.
- If the toilet is a close-coupled suite (cistern sitting directly on the pan), you may find it easier to disconnect and lift the cistern off temporarily. This is a straightforward plumbing task but involves water connections — see the section below.
When to Call a Professional
Plumbing work is restricted work in New Zealand. Under the Plumbers, Gasfitters and Drainlayers Act, certain sanitary plumbing work is restricted work that must be carried out by a licensed tradesperson. This means:
- You can turn off an isolating valve and flush the cistern yourself.
- You cannot legally disconnect and reconnect the water supply pipe or the pan-to-drain connection yourself — this must be done by a licensed plumber.
If you need the toilet partially or fully removed to do the job properly, engage a licensed plumber to disconnect it, then tile, then have the plumber reconnect it. This is often the most practical and code-compliant approach.
For complex cuts, large areas, or if you're not confident with the waterproofing requirements, it's well worth hiring a qualified tiler. You can find licensed local tilers on tradedirectory.co.nz.
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