Tiling around a shower drain neatly is one of the trickier parts of a bathroom tiling job, but it's absolutely achievable as a confident DIYer. The key is careful planning before you lay a single tile, choosing the right cutting method, and making sure your waterproofing is solid underneath. Here's how to do it properly.
Plan Your Tile Layout First
Before mixing any adhesive, dry-lay your tiles across the shower floor to work out the best starting point. Ideally, you want the drain to sit symmetrically within a tile or at the junction of four tiles — this looks the most intentional and professional. Avoid ending up with tiny slivers of tile around the drain, as these are weak and hard to cut cleanly.
- Measure the shower floor and find the centre point.
- Dry-lay tiles from the centre outward, adjusting so the drain falls in a visually balanced position.
- Mark your layout lines with a pencil or chalk line.
- Account for grout joints (typically 2–3 mm for rectified tiles, up to 5 mm for non-rectified).
Waterproofing — Don't Skip This Step
In New Zealand, shower floors must comply with NZS 4858:2004 (Wet Areas in Buildings) and the NZ Building Code clause E3 (Internal Moisture). Waterproofing the shower floor and walls is not optional — it's a code requirement. The membrane must be applied before tiling and must extend up the walls at least 100 mm (or to the full height of the wet area, depending on your situation).
Pay special attention to the drain flange: the waterproof membrane must bond directly to it. Products like Ardex and Mapei both offer shower waterproofing systems with specific drain collar accessories designed to create a watertight seal at this junction. Follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully, including cure times before tiling.
Note: If you are installing or modifying the drain itself (connecting to the drainlaying system), that is restricted work under the Plumbers, Gasfitters and Drainlayers Act and must be carried out by a licensed tradesperson. See the Plumbers Gasfitters & Drainlayers Board for more information.
Choosing the Right Adhesive and Tiles
For wet areas, use a flexible, waterproof tile adhesive rated for wet areas — standard grey cement-based adhesives are not suitable on their own. Both Ardex and Mapei offer suitable products. For shower floors, smaller format tiles (mosaic or tiles up to around 200 × 200 mm) are generally recommended because they follow the fall toward the drain more easily than large-format tiles.
Check that your chosen tiles have a slip rating of R10 or higher for shower floors — this is important for safety and is referenced in NZ building standards.
Cutting Tiles Around the Drain
This is where patience pays off. There are two common drain shapes to deal with:
Square or Rectangular Drain
A square drain is the easiest to tile around. If your layout places it at the corner of four tiles, each tile simply needs a square notch cut from one corner.
- Mark the notch on the tile using a pencil and square.
- Use an angle grinder with a diamond blade or a wet tile saw to make the cuts.
- Test-fit before applying adhesive — adjust as needed.
Round Drain
A round drain requires curved cuts, which are trickier.
- Make a cardboard template of the curve first and transfer it to the tile.
- Use an angle grinder to nibble away the curve in small passes, or use a tile hole saw (wet type) if the drain is small enough.
- Work slowly — rushing causes chips and cracks.
- Smooth rough edges with a rubbing stone or diamond hand pad.
| Drain Shape | Best Cutting Tool | Difficulty |
|---|---|---|
| Square/rectangular | Wet tile saw or angle grinder | Moderate |
| Round (small) | Tile hole saw | Moderate |
| Round (large) | Angle grinder + nibbling | Harder |
| Linear (strip) | Wet tile saw | Moderate |
Setting the Tiles
- Apply adhesive with a notched trowel (size depends on tile format — check the adhesive manufacturer's guide).
- Back-butter each tile as well for full coverage in wet areas.
- Press tiles firmly and check they are level and following the fall toward the drain (typically a 1:100 fall minimum).
- Leave a consistent grout gap around the drain cover — usually 2–3 mm.
- Allow adhesive to cure fully before grouting (check the product datasheet).
Grouting and Finishing
Use a flexible, waterproof grout suitable for wet areas. Epoxy grout is highly durable and stain-resistant, though it requires more care to apply. Standard cement-based grouts with a waterproof additive are also widely used.
- Mix grout to a smooth, lump-free consistency.
- Work it into joints with a rubber grout float at a 45° angle.
- Clean excess grout off tile faces with a damp sponge before it hardens.
- Once cured, apply a silicone sealant (not grout) at the junction between the tile and the drain cover — this allows for slight movement and keeps water out.
Safety Note
When cutting tiles with an angle grinder, always wear safety glasses, hearing protection, and a P2 dust mask. Tile dust contains silica, which is hazardous to lungs. Cut outdoors or in a well-ventilated area where possible. See WorkSafe NZ for guidance on working safely with silica dust.
When to Call a Professional
Consider hiring a qualified tiler if:
- You are unsure about the existing waterproofing or substrate condition.
- The drain needs to be repositioned or connected to the drainage system (this must be done by a licensed drainlayer).
- You are working with large-format tiles or a complex pattern.
- The shower floor has no existing fall and needs a mortar bed built up — this is a skilled job.
A professional tiler will also be able to certify that the waterproofing meets NZ Building Code requirements, which matters for insurance and future sale of your home. You can find qualified local tilers on tradedirectory.co.nz.
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