Drum sanders are brilliant for open floor areas, but they simply can't get close enough to walls, skirting boards, or corners. The good news is that with the right tools and a bit of patience, you can sand those edge strips to match the rest of your floor perfectly — no drum sander required.
The Right Tool for the Job: Edge Sanders
The go-to tool for sanding near walls is an edge sander (sometimes called an edger or disc sander). These are round, handheld machines that use circular abrasive discs and can get within about 10–15 mm of a skirting board. Edge sanders are available to hire from most tool hire shops around New Zealand, and are often available at larger stores like Bunnings or Mitre 10.
For the very tightest spots — right up against the skirting or in corners — you'll also want:
- A random orbital sander (smaller and easier to manoeuvre than an edger)
- A detail sander (triangular pad, great for corners)
- A hand scraper (for the last few millimetres the machines can't reach)
- Sanding blocks and sandpaper (for final hand-sanding)
Choosing the Right Sandpaper Grit
Match your grit sequence to the condition of your floor. A typical progression for NZ rimu, pine, or hardwood floors looks like this:
| Stage | Grit | Purpose |
|---|---|---|
| First pass | 40–60 grit | Remove old finish, level boards |
| Second pass | 80 grit | Smooth out scratches from coarse grit |
| Final pass | 100–120 grit | Fine finish before coating |
Always work through the grits progressively — skipping grits leaves deep scratches that show through your final finish.
Step-by-Step: Sanding the Edges
1. Prepare the Area
Remove all furniture and rugs. Check for raised nails or staples and punch them below the surface with a nail punch and hammer — these will tear your sandpaper and damage your sander. Ventilate the room well by opening windows.
2. Start with the Edge Sander
Fit your coarsest grit disc to the edge sander. Work in a sweeping arc motion, moving with and slightly across the grain. Keep the sander moving at all times — stopping in one spot will create a visible dip or swirl mark. Work your way around the perimeter of the room.
3. Work Through the Grits
Repeat the process with each progressively finer grit, vacuuming thoroughly between each pass. Dust left on the floor will clog your sandpaper and reduce its effectiveness.
4. Tackle the Corners by Hand
Edge sanders still leave a small gap right in the corners. Use a detail sander, a folded piece of sandpaper, or a hand scraper to work into these spots. Always finish with the grain of the timber to avoid cross-grain scratches.
5. Blend the Edges with the Field
Once the main floor (sanded with the drum sander) and the edges are done, check that the two areas blend smoothly. Shine a torch at a low angle across the floor — this will highlight any ridges or level differences. A random orbital sander can help feather the transition zone.
Dust Control and Safety
Floor sanding generates a significant amount of fine dust, which is a health hazard. WorkSafe NZ recommends:
- Wearing a P2-rated dust mask (not just a paper dust mask)
- Using safety glasses
- Ensuring good ventilation throughout
- Sealing off doorways to other rooms with plastic sheeting to contain dust
Older homes may have lead-based paint on or between floorboards. If you suspect lead paint, get the surface tested before sanding. Sanding lead paint creates hazardous dust — seek professional advice.
Finishing Up: Coating the Edges
Once sanding is complete, vacuum thoroughly and wipe down with a tack cloth to remove all fine dust. Apply your chosen finish — whether that's a polyurethane, oil, or hard-wax oil — to the edges first, then the main floor, so you're not painting yourself into a corner.
For finish product advice suited to NZ timber species and conditions, Resene and Wattyl both offer floor coating ranges and helpful technical data sheets on their websites.
When to Call a Professional
Floor sanding looks straightforward but is genuinely skilled work. Mistakes — particularly with an edge sander — can leave visible swirl marks, dips, or uneven patches that are difficult to fix without starting over. Consider hiring a professional floor sander if:
- Your floors are very old, thin, or already heavily sanded (there may not be much timber left to work with)
- You have exotic or engineered timber that requires specialist knowledge
- The floor has significant damage, cupping, or warping
- You simply want a guaranteed result first time
A qualified floor sanding professional will have commercial-grade equipment and the experience to blend edges seamlessly. You can find licensed local floor sanding tradespeople on tradedirectory.co.nz.
