Removing a steel mesh fence and its concrete footings is a satisfying weekend project for a capable DIYer, but it does require careful planning, the right tools, and a solid understanding of safety. Done properly, you can clear the site cleanly and dispose of materials responsibly — without injuring yourself or damaging underground services.
Before You Start: Check for Consent and Underground Services
In most cases, removing a fence does not require a building consent under Schedule 1 of the Building Act 2004. However, rules can vary depending on your local council, the fence's location (e.g. on a boundary, near a retaining wall, or in a heritage zone), so it's always worth a quick call to your council to confirm.
More importantly, dial before you dig. New Zealand has a free service — Dial Before You Dig (0800 248 344) — to identify buried power cables, gas lines, water pipes, and telecommunications cables near your fence line. Striking a buried service with a bar or excavator can be fatal. Contact WorkSafe NZ for guidance on safe excavation practices.
Tools and Equipment You'll Need
- Safety gear: Heavy-duty gloves, steel-capped boots, safety glasses, and hearing protection
- Bolt cutters or angle grinder (with metal cutting disc) to cut mesh panels
- Fence pliers or wire cutters for tie wires
- Pinch bar / wrecking bar for levering posts
- Spade and mattock for digging around footings
- Sledgehammer or electric demolition hammer (jackhammer) for breaking concrete
- Wheelbarrow for shifting rubble
- Skip bin or trailer for disposal
You can hire demolition hammers and other heavy equipment from most hire centres. Check Bunnings or Mitre 10 for tool hire options.
Step 1: Remove the Mesh Panels
Start at one end of the fence. Use fence pliers or wire cutters to undo the tie wires that attach the mesh to the rails and posts. If the mesh is welded or clipped to a top rail, an angle grinder with a metal cutting disc will make short work of it.
Roll the mesh up as you go — this makes it easier to handle and transport. Wear thick gloves: cut mesh edges are razor-sharp and can cause serious lacerations. Keep bystanders, especially children and pets, well clear of the work area.
Step 2: Remove Rails and Posts
Once the mesh is off, remove any horizontal rails by unbolting or cutting them free. Then tackle the posts. If posts are simply driven into the ground (no concrete), a post puller or a pinch bar with a fulcrum block can lever them out.
For posts set in concrete, you have two main options:
Option A: Pull the Post and Footing Together
For smaller footings, dig around the base of the post with a spade to expose the concrete. Use a pinch bar to rock the post back and forth, breaking the bond with the surrounding soil. A hi-lift jack or vehicle-mounted chain can help pull stubborn posts and their footings free in one piece.
Option B: Break Up the Concrete In Situ
For larger footings, it's often easier to cut the post off at ground level with an angle grinder, then break up the concrete footing using a demolition hammer (jackhammer). Work from the edges inward, breaking the footing into manageable chunks. This is physically demanding work — hire a petrol or electric demolition hammer rather than relying on a sledgehammer alone.
Step 3: Backfill the Holes
Once footings are removed, you'll be left with holes. Backfill these promptly to prevent trip hazards. Use compacted fill or a lean-mix concrete if the area will be built over or paved. Leaving open holes is a safety risk, particularly if children are present.
Disposing of Materials
- Steel mesh and posts are recyclable — contact your local scrap metal dealer or check your council's recycling options.
- Broken concrete (rubble) can often be taken to a transfer station or concrete recycling facility. Some councils accept it as clean fill. Check with your local council before dumping.
- Hire a skip bin if you have a large volume of material — it's often the most practical option.
Avoid burying concrete rubble on-site without checking your council's rules around clean fill.
Safety Summary
| Hazard | Control |
|---|---|
| Sharp mesh edges | Heavy-duty gloves, long sleeves |
| Flying concrete chips | Safety glasses, face shield |
| Underground services | Dial Before You Dig first |
| Heavy lifting | Use mechanical aids, ask for help |
| Noise from jackhammer | Hearing protection |
| Unstable posts falling | Clear the area, work methodically |
Always let someone know you're doing the work, and never work alone when using heavy demolition equipment.
When to Call a Professional
Consider hiring a qualified demolition contractor if:
- The fence is large, long, or on a steep or unstable site
- You suspect asbestos-containing materials nearby (older corrugated iron, fibrous cement sheeting) — asbestos removal is restricted work requiring a licensed removalist under WorkSafe NZ regulations
- The footings are very large or deeply set and require excavation machinery
- The fence is on or near a retaining wall, and removal could affect structural stability
- You're unsure about underground services or boundary legalities
A professional demolition contractor has the equipment, experience, and insurance to handle complex removals safely and efficiently. You can find qualified local demolition contractors on tradedirectory.co.nz.
SiteWise
Tōtika Prequalified
ISO 45001
