Removing a corrugated iron fence is something many Kiwi homeowners can tackle themselves with the right preparation, tools, and safety gear. The job is straightforward in principle, but old corrugated iron can hide real hazards — sharp edges, rust, and in some older properties, asbestos-containing materials nearby — so taking a careful, methodical approach is essential.
Before You Start: Check for Hazards
The most important step before touching anything is a thorough inspection.
- Asbestos risk: Corrugated iron itself does not contain asbestos, but older NZ properties (generally pre-1990) may have asbestos-cement sheeting (sometimes called "Super Six" or fibrolite) nearby or mixed in with the fence panels. If you're unsure whether any sheeting is asbestos-cement rather than steel, do not disturb it. Contact a licensed asbestos assessor or removal contractor first. WorkSafe NZ has clear guidance on identifying and managing asbestos safely.
- Underground services: Check whether any fence posts are near power, water, or gas lines. Call Dial Before You Dig (0800 248 344) if you plan to dig out concrete footings.
- Boundary fences: If the fence sits on or near a boundary shared with a neighbour, the Fencing Act 1978 may apply. It's good practice — and sometimes legally required — to discuss removal with your neighbour before you start.
- Building consent: Removing a fence is generally exempt from building consent under Schedule 1 of the Building Act 2004, but always confirm with your local council if you're unsure, especially if the fence is part of a retaining structure or attached to a building.
Tools and Equipment You'll Need
- Personal protective equipment (PPE): Heavy-duty leather or cut-resistant gloves (essential — corrugated iron edges are razor sharp), safety glasses or goggles, steel-capped boots, long sleeves and trousers, and a dust mask (P2 rated) if there is any rust dust or debris.
- Flat pry bar or wrecking bar
- Cordless drill or impact driver with appropriate bit (usually hex or Phillips) to remove tek screws or bolts
- Tin snips or angle grinder with a cutting disc (for trimming damaged sections)
- Hammer
- Post puller, fence post driver used in reverse, or a hired hydraulic post puller for concrete-set posts
- Ute, trailer, or skip bin for disposal
Step-by-Step Removal Process
1. Clear the Area
Remove any vegetation, garden beds, or obstacles along the fence line. This gives you safe footing and room to work.
2. Remove Fasteners First
Start at one end of the fence. Use your drill or impact driver to back out tek screws or bolts holding the corrugated sheets to the rails. If screws are rusted solid, a flat pry bar or hammer and chisel can help break them free. Work from the top of the sheet downward.
3. Remove the Sheets Safely
Once fasteners are out, carefully lift each sheet away from the rails. Always carry corrugated iron sheets vertically with a partner where possible — they are unwieldy in wind and the edges can cause serious lacerations. Stack sheets flat on the ground away from foot traffic, with the cut or torn edges facing inward.
4. Remove the Rails
With sheets cleared, remove horizontal rails from the posts. These are usually bolted, screwed, or wired on. A pry bar makes short work of most fixings.
5. Remove the Posts
This is often the hardest part. Posts set in concrete require more effort:
- Timber posts: A post puller or rocking the post back and forth while pulling upward usually works.
- Steel posts in concrete: A hired hydraulic post puller is the most effective tool. Alternatively, dig around the concrete footing with a spade and lever it out.
- Fill any holes left behind to prevent trip hazards.
Disposing of Old Corrugated Iron
Corrugated steel is fully recyclable and most NZ metal recyclers will accept it — some will even pay you a small amount per kilogram. Check with your local scrap metal dealer. If the iron is too rusted or damaged to recycle, your local council transfer station will accept it as scrap metal. Avoid leaving sharp sheets loose in a skip where they could injure waste collectors — bundle and tie sheets together or place them in a designated metal skip.
Staying Safe Throughout the Job
| Risk | Control |
|---|---|
| Cuts from sharp edges | Heavy gloves, long sleeves, carry sheets vertically |
| Eye injury from rust/debris | Safety glasses at all times |
| Foot injury from dropped sheets | Steel-capped boots |
| Asbestos exposure | Stop work, get professional assessment if unsure |
| Strain injury | Use a partner for large sheets, lift correctly |
| Underground services | Dial Before You Dig before any digging |
When to Call a Professional
Consider hiring a qualified demolition contractor (find one at tradedirectory.co.nz) if:
- Any sheeting looks like it could be asbestos-cement — this may be restricted work under asbestos regulations and must be handled by a licensed removalist.
- The fence is large, on a steep site, or structurally connected to a building or retaining wall.
- Posts are deeply concreted and you don't have access to the right equipment.
- You're not confident working safely around sharp materials.
For asbestos-related concerns, WorkSafe NZ is your first port of call. For questions about what work requires consent, check with MBIE Building Performance.
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