Cutting down a tree in sections (sometimes called sectional dismantling) is a practical approach when a tree is too close to a house, fence, or power lines to fell in one go. Done carefully and with the right equipment, a competent homeowner can tackle a small to medium-sized tree — but it's important to be honest about your skill level, the tree's size, and the risks involved before you start.
Is This Job Right for You?
Before picking up a chainsaw, ask yourself a few honest questions:
- Is the tree under 5–6 metres tall and relatively straight? Larger or leaning trees carry significantly more risk.
- Are there power lines, structures, or people within falling distance of any section?
- Do you have experience operating a chainsaw safely?
- Is the tree healthy and structurally sound, or could it be rotten or hollow inside?
If you're unsure about any of these, stop and get a professional assessment. A qualified arborist can be found through tradedirectory.co.nz.
Check Before You Cut: Consents and Rules
Many NZ councils have tree protection rules in their district plans, particularly for heritage trees, trees over a certain height or girth, or trees in specific zones. Removing a protected tree without consent can result in significant fines.
- Always check with your local council before removing any tree.
- Some removals may require a resource consent or building consent depending on your district plan.
- Visit MBIE Building Performance for general guidance on what work requires consent.
- If the tree is near a boundary, talk to your neighbour first — branches and roots crossing a boundary can be a legal grey area.
Equipment You'll Need
Never attempt sectional tree removal without proper personal protective equipment (PPE) and the right tools:
| Item | Purpose |
|---|---|
| Chainsaw (bar length suited to tree diameter) | Primary cutting tool |
| Chainsaw chaps or trousers | Cut-resistant leg protection |
| Helmet with face shield and hearing protection | Head and face protection |
| Chainsaw gloves | Hand protection and grip |
| Steel-capped boots | Foot protection |
| Climbing harness and rope (if working above ground) | Fall protection |
| Wedges and a felling bar | Controlling cut direction |
| Ladder (if needed for lower sections) | Access |
All PPE should meet relevant NZ/Australian standards. WorkSafe NZ publishes guidance on safe chainsaw use that is well worth reading before you start.
Planning Your Drop Zones
For each section you cut, you need a clear drop zone — an area where the cut piece can fall safely. Walk around the tree and:
- Identify two escape routes at 45-degree angles away from the intended fall direction.
- Clear the area of people, pets, and moveable objects.
- Never work with anyone standing underneath or within reach of falling timber.
- Mark your drop zone and keep bystanders well back — at least twice the height of the section being cut.
Step-by-Step: Cutting a Tree in Sections
1. Start at the Top
Work from the top of the tree downward, removing smaller branches first. This reduces weight and improves visibility as you work lower.
2. Remove Branches First
Cut branches close to the trunk, working from the underside first to avoid the saw pinching. For larger limbs, use a three-cut method: undercut first, then top cut slightly further out, then a final flush cut at the trunk.
3. Section the Main Trunk
Once branches are cleared, cut the trunk into manageable sections — typically 30–60 cm lengths for easier handling. Always:
- Stand to the side of the cut, never directly behind or in front.
- Be aware of spring-back if the trunk is under tension.
- Use wedges to prevent the saw bar from pinching in the cut.
4. Control the Fall of Each Section
For sections higher up, a lowering rope rigged over a sturdy branch or anchor point lets you control the descent. This is where the job gets significantly more technical — if you're not confident rigging ropes, this is the point to call a professional.
5. Deal with the Stump
Once the trunk is sectioned down to a stump, you can either leave it, grind it (stump grinders can be hired from most tool hire shops), or treat it with a registered stump killer product to prevent regrowth.
Disposing of the Timber
- Firewood: Species like macrocarpa and gum make good firewood once seasoned. Note that pine is a softwood, not a hardwood, and burns faster with lower heat output than true hardwoods.
- Green waste: Many councils offer green waste collection or drop-off. Check your local council website.
- Chipping: Hire a wood chipper or arrange for a contractor to chip on-site — useful for mulch.
When to Call a Professional
There are situations where hiring a qualified arborist is strongly recommended or essential:
- The tree is large, leaning, or structurally compromised (hollow, rotten, or heavily damaged).
- There are power lines anywhere near the tree. Working near lines is extremely dangerous — contact your lines company first.
- The tree is over 6–8 metres tall or requires climbing with ropes.
- You don't own or have experience with a chainsaw.
- The tree is in a difficult or confined location.
A certified arborist has the training, equipment, and insurance to handle complex removals safely. Find a qualified local arborist on tradedirectory.co.nz.
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