Removing old kitchen cabinets is a satisfying DIY project, and with the right approach you can get them out cleanly without gouging your plasterboard or tiles. The key is working methodically — emptying, disconnecting, and unscrewing before you ever try to pull anything free. Here's how to do it safely and neatly.
Before You Start: Safety and Planning
Kitchen removals involve walls that may hide electrical wiring, plumbing pipes, and gas lines. Before touching anything:
- Turn off the power at the switchboard to any circuits serving the kitchen. If you're unsure which circuits are involved, turn off the main switch.
- Turn off the water supply at the isolation valves under the sink (or at the toby outside).
- Never disconnect gas appliances yourself. Gas work is restricted work under NZ law and must be carried out by a licensed gasfitter registered with the Plumbers Gasfitters & Drainlayers Board. This includes disconnecting a gas hob or oven.
- Similarly, any work on fixed wiring — such as removing a rangehood that is hard-wired — must be done by a registered electrician (EWRB). Plug-in appliances you can disconnect yourself.
- Check with your local council if your renovation is part of a larger project that may require a building consent. Many straightforward cabinet swaps fall under Schedule 1 exemptions, but it pays to confirm.
Tools You'll Need
- Cordless drill/driver with screwdriver bits
- Pry bar (flat bar) and a wide putty knife
- Utility knife (Stanley knife)
- Stud finder
- Hammer
- Safety glasses and gloves
- A helper — wall cabinets are heavy and awkward alone
Step 1: Clear and Disconnect Everything
Remove all items from inside the cabinets. Take off doors and drawers first — this reduces weight and gives you better access to fixings. Unscrew hinges and set doors aside.
Disconnect the sink plumbing (trap and supply lines) once the water is off. If you have a dishwasher, disconnect the water supply and drain hose. Again, leave any gas or hard-wired electrical disconnections to a licensed tradesperson.
Step 2: Remove the Benchtop
Benchtops are usually siliconed to the cabinets and sometimes screwed from below. Run a sharp utility knife along any silicone bead where the benchtop meets the wall splashback and the cabinet tops. This single step prevents most wall and tile damage.
Look underneath for screws or brackets holding the benchtop down. Once those are out, the benchtop should lift free — get a helper for laminate or stone tops, which are heavy.
Step 3: Remove Wall (Upper) Cabinets First
Always take down wall cabinets before base cabinets. This keeps your workspace clear and avoids working at height over obstacles.
- Locate the screws fixing the cabinet to the wall — typically through a hanging rail or directly through the back panel into wall studs or a nogging. A stud finder helps here.
- Have your helper support the cabinet while you remove the screws. Never let a wall cabinet hang on its last screw.
- Slide a wide putty knife between the cabinet back and the wall before pulling the unit away. This protects the paint or plasterboard surface.
- If the cabinet has been painted or siliconed to the wall, score along the joint with your utility knife first. Pulling without scoring is the most common cause of torn plasterboard paper.
Step 4: Remove Base Cabinets
Base cabinets are usually screwed to the wall through a back rail and sometimes to each other with cabinet connector screws (look inside along the side panels).
- Remove any toe-kick panels first — these are often just clipped or lightly nailed on.
- Unscrew cabinets from the wall and from each other.
- Score any silicone or caulk lines along the wall with your utility knife.
- Use a flat pry bar with a piece of scrap timber behind it to protect the wall if you need gentle leverage.
Step 5: Deal With Splashbacks and Tiles
If tiles are fixed directly to the wall behind the cabinets, be aware that removing cabinets may disturb them. If you plan to retile, this isn't a concern. If you want to keep existing tiles intact, work slowly and avoid lateral force. Tiles bonded to GIB plasterboard (a common NZ installation) can be particularly fragile — see GIB's technical information for substrate guidance.
Step 6: Make Good the Walls
Once cabinets are out, you'll likely find:
- Screw holes — fill with a ready-mixed filler or Spakfilla, sand smooth once dry.
- Paint lines or shadow marks — the exposed wall area will need repainting. Resene and Dulux both offer colour-matching services to help blend new paint with existing walls.
- Damaged plasterboard — if the paper face has torn or the board is cracked, patch or replace the affected section before repainting.
When to Call a Professional
Call a licensed gasfitter (PGDB) before removing any gas appliance or cabinetry around gas lines. Call a registered electrician (EWRB) for any hard-wired appliances or if you discover wiring inside a cabinet cavity. If you find the job is bigger than expected — structural walls, asbestos-containing materials in older homes (pre-1990s), or significant plumbing rerouting — it's wise to bring in a qualified tradesperson. You can find experienced local cabinet makers and kitchen renovation specialists on tradedirectory.co.nz.
Asbestos note: Homes built or renovated before 1990 may contain asbestos in textured ceilings, vinyl flooring, or wall linings. If you're unsure, have materials tested before disturbing them. WorkSafe NZ has guidance on managing asbestos safely.
