Removing an old concrete fence post is a satisfying DIY job, but it does require some muscle, the right tools, and a healthy respect for what might be lurking underground. Done carefully, most homeowners can tackle this themselves — though there are situations where calling in a qualified fencer is the smarter move.
Before You Start: Check for Underground Services
This is the most important step and must not be skipped. Buried services — including power cables, gas lines, water pipes, and telecommunications cables — can run close to fence lines, sometimes only a few centimetres below the surface.
- Contact Dial Before You Dig (0800 248 344 or dialbeforeyoudig.co.nz) to request a service location before any digging.
- Check with your local council or lines company if you're unsure about overhead power lines nearby.
- Review any property plans you have — these sometimes show service routes.
Striking a buried power cable is a life-threatening risk. If you have any doubt, stop and get a professional to assess the site.
Tools You'll Need
Gather these before you begin:
- Spade and/or long-handled digging bar (for breaking up compacted soil around the post)
- Post puller or high-lift (farm) jack — these are available to hire from most tool hire shops
- Mattock (useful for clay soils common in many NZ regions)
- Reciprocating saw or angle grinder (if you need to cut the post)
- Wheelbarrow for removing spoil and broken concrete
- Safety glasses, gloves, and steel-capped boots
- Dust mask — older concrete can contain silica dust; a P2 respirator is recommended
Step-by-Step: How to Remove the Post
1. Assess the Post and Footing
Concrete fence posts are typically set in a concrete footing (sometimes called a collar) that extends 400–600 mm or more into the ground. The footing is often wider than the post itself, which is what makes removal tricky. Tap the post — if it's already loose, you may be able to rock it free with less effort.
2. Expose the Footing
Using your spade and digging bar, excavate around the base of the post to expose the top of the concrete footing. Dig down at least 200–300 mm, or until you can see where the footing begins to widen. This gives your extraction tool something to work against and reduces the suction grip of the soil.
3. Use a Post Puller or High-Lift Jack
A post puller (also called a post extractor) is the safest and most effective tool for this job. It clamps around the post and uses leverage to draw it straight up without excessive strain on your back.
- Position the post puller as low on the post as possible.
- Apply steady, even pressure — avoid sudden jerking movements.
- If the post won't budge, dig out more soil from around the footing before trying again.
A high-lift jack (farm jack) can also work well: chain or strap it to the post and jack upward. Make sure the jack is on a firm, level base.
Never use a vehicle to yank out a post — this is dangerous and can cause serious injury or property damage.
4. Break Up the Footing If Needed
If the footing is very large or the post won't come free, you may need to break up the concrete in situ using a cold chisel and club hammer, or hire an electric demolition hammer (jackhammer). Work around the outside of the footing to free it from the surrounding soil, then lever it out in sections.
5. Dispose of the Concrete
Concrete rubble is considered inert fill and cannot go in your general rubbish bin. Options include:
- Taking it to your local transfer station or recycling centre (check your council's website for accepted materials and fees)
- Hiring a skip bin
- Reusing broken concrete as drainage fill in garden beds (check this is appropriate for your site)
Safety Notes
- Always wear safety glasses when breaking concrete — fragments can fly unpredictably.
- Wear a P2 dust mask when cutting or breaking concrete to protect against silica dust, which can cause serious lung disease. WorkSafe NZ has guidance on managing silica dust exposure.
- Lift with your legs, not your back. Concrete footings can weigh 50–100 kg or more.
- If you're working near an overhead power line, maintain a minimum clearance of 4 metres at all times. Contact your lines company if you're unsure.
Filling the Hole
Once the post and footing are out, backfill the hole in layers, compacting each layer with a tamping bar or the end of your digging bar. Use good-quality fill — crushed aggregate or compacted soil — to prevent the ground from sinking later. If the area will be grassed, top up with topsoil and reseed.
Do You Need a Building Consent?
Removing a fence post on its own is generally exempt from building consent under Schedule 1 of the Building Act 2004, but the rules around fences (particularly those over 2.5 m high or on boundary lines) can be more complex. Always confirm with your local council before starting work. MBIE Building Performance has useful guidance on what work requires consent.
When to Call a Professional
Consider hiring a qualified fencer or contractor if:
- You cannot confirm the location of underground services
- The post is near a retaining wall, building foundation, or boundary where disturbance could cause structural issues
- You're dealing with a large number of posts or a long run of fencing
- The post is set in very deep or reinforced concrete
- You don't have access to the right tools or are not confident working safely
A skilled fencer will have the equipment and experience to get the job done quickly and without risk to your property. You can find qualified local fencers on tradedirectory.co.nz.
