Removing a single course of bricks without damaging the rest of the wall is absolutely achievable as a DIY task — provided the wall is non-structural and you work carefully and methodically. The key is patience, the right tools, and understanding what you're dealing with before you start swinging a hammer.
Check the Wall Before You Touch It
Before removing any bricks, you need to confirm the wall is non-structural (also called a non-loadbearing wall). Structural brickwork — such as a loadbearing wall, a retaining wall, or brickwork that supports a roof or floor — must only be altered by a qualified professional, and in many cases will require a building consent from your local council.
If you're unsure whether your wall is structural, stop and consult a licensed builder or structural engineer before proceeding. You can find guidance on when building consents are required at MBIE Building Performance. Even for seemingly minor work, it's worth checking with your council whether a Schedule 1 exemption applies to your situation — never assume.
Also check whether the brickwork contains any embedded services such as electrical conduit, plumbing pipes, or gas lines running through or behind the course you plan to remove. If in doubt, get a professional to check first.
Tools You'll Need
- Angle grinder with a diamond masonry blade (or a cold chisel and club hammer for smaller jobs)
- Plugging chisel (specifically designed for mortar joints)
- Brick bolster chisel
- Club hammer (1–1.5 kg)
- Stiff-bristle brush for cleaning joints
- Safety glasses, hearing protection, and a P2 dust mask — mortar dust can contain silica, which is a serious respiratory hazard
- Gloves and sturdy footwear
- Bucket and tarpaulin for debris
Step-by-Step: Removing a Single Course of Bricks
1. Protect the Surrounding Area
Lay a tarpaulin or drop sheet below the work area to catch debris. If working near windows, doors, or finished surfaces, protect them with cardboard or masking film.
2. Score and Remove the Mortar Joints
This is the most important step. Using your plugging chisel and club hammer (or an angle grinder with a masonry blade), carefully rake out the mortar from the horizontal bed joints above and below the course you're removing, and the vertical perpend joints between each brick.
Work slowly and keep the chisel angled into the mortar — not into the brick face. Remove mortar to a depth of at least 15–20 mm all the way around each brick. The more thoroughly you clear the joints, the less force you'll need later and the less risk of cracking adjacent bricks.
Silica dust warning: Cutting or grinding mortar and brick generates fine silica dust. Always wear a P2-rated dust mask and work in a ventilated area. See WorkSafe NZ for guidance on working safely with silica-containing materials.
3. Work From the Middle Outward
Once the mortar is cleared, start removing bricks from the middle of the course rather than the ends. Insert your brick bolster chisel into the cleared joint and apply firm, controlled taps with the club hammer. Avoid sudden heavy blows — steady pressure is far less likely to crack neighbouring bricks.
Wiggle each brick gently side to side as it loosens, then slide it out. If a brick won't budge, go back and clear more mortar — don't force it.
4. Clean Up the Remaining Courses
Once all bricks are removed, use your stiff brush and chisel to clean the mortar off the courses above and below. If you're relaying bricks or patching the area, you'll want clean, sound surfaces to bond to.
Matching Replacement Bricks
If you're filling the gap back in, matching the existing bricks can be tricky — especially in older NZ homes where bricks may be an imperial size no longer in production. Take a sample brick to a brickwork supplier or PlaceMakers to help find the closest match in colour, texture, and size. Salvage yards are also worth checking for reclaimed bricks.
For the mortar mix, match the strength and colour of the existing mortar as closely as possible. Using a mortar that's too strong (high cement content) in an older wall can cause cracking in the surrounding bricks over time. If you're unsure, ask a bricklayer or check with BRANZ for guidance on appropriate mortar specifications.
When to Call a Professional
Call a licensed bricklayer if:
- The wall is structural, loadbearing, or part of a retaining structure
- You suspect the wall contains embedded services (electrical, plumbing, gas)
- The brickwork is part of a fire-rated assembly or a boundary wall
- You need a building consent — always confirm with your local council
- The mortar is extremely hard (common in pre-1970s walls with lime-cement mixes) and resists careful chiselling
- You're not confident working safely at height or with power tools
A qualified bricklayer will have the experience to remove bricks cleanly, advise on structural implications, and ensure any reinstatement work meets the NZ Building Code. You can find experienced local bricklayers on tradedirectory.co.nz.
Licensed Building Practitioner (LBP)
