How to Remove a Concrete Fence Post Footing Yourself

Removing a concrete fence post footing yourself is absolutely achievable as a DIY project — but it takes effort, the right tools, and a healthy respect for what's underground. Most residential fence post footings are between 300 mm and 600 mm deep, though some can go deeper depending on the post height and soil conditions. Here's how to tackle the job safely and efficiently.

Safety First

Before you lift a single shovel, dial 0800 4 BURIED (0800 428 743) or visit beforeudig.co.nz to check for underground services — gas lines, water pipes, and electrical cables can all run close to fence lines. Striking a buried service is extremely dangerous and potentially fatal. Always wear safety glasses, steel-capped boots, heavy-duty gloves, and hearing protection if you're using power tools. Check WorkSafe NZ for guidance on safe manual handling and tool use.

Tools and Equipment You'll Need

Gather these before you start:

• Spade and long-handled shovel — for digging around the footing
• Digging bar (pinch bar) — a heavy steel bar for breaking up compacted soil and levering
• Mattock — useful in clay or hard ground
• Fence post puller or high-lift jack — makes extraction much easier
• Sledgehammer — for breaking up the concrete if needed
• Cold chisel — for splitting concrete
• Angle grinder with diamond blade (optional) — for cutting through large footings
• Wheelbarrow — for removing spoil and broken concrete
• Tape measure — to gauge footing depth as you go

You can hire a post puller, electric jackhammer, or concrete breaker from most hire centres if you don't own them. Hiring a jackhammer is well worth it for large or deep footings.

Step 1 — Expose the Footing

Dig around the concrete footing with your spade, working in a circle about 150–200 mm out from the edge of the concrete. Go down until you can see the full sides of the footing. This is the most labour-intensive part, especially in clay-heavy NZ soils. Keep the spoil in your wheelbarrow or to one side for backfilling later.

Once exposed, assess the footing size. A standard residential footing might be roughly 250–350 mm in diameter and 400–600 mm deep, but this varies widely.

Step 2 — Try to Extract It Whole

If the footing is relatively small and the soil is loose, you may be able to lever it out in one piece:

1. Insert your digging bar down the side of the footing and lever outward to break the soil bond.
2. Work around all sides to loosen it fully.
3. Use a fence post puller or high-lift jack positioned over the post (if still attached) or chained around the concrete block to pull it straight up.
4. Rock it back and forth as you lift to break suction from the soil.

This method saves a lot of time if it works. A vehicle-mounted chain can also be used on a flat, stable surface — attach a chain around the footing and use a 4WD to pull it out — but take care not to damage your lawn or driveway.

Step 3 — Break It Up If Needed

For large, deep, or awkwardly shaped footings, breaking the concrete into manageable pieces is often easier than extracting it whole:

1. Use a sledgehammer and cold chisel to crack the concrete, working from the top down.
2. A hired electric jackhammer or concrete breaker will make this significantly faster and less exhausting.
3. Remove broken pieces as you go, using your spade to clear debris from the hole.
4. Continue until the hole is clear.

Tip: Concrete rubble can often be taken to your local transfer station or recycling facility. Check with your council for drop-off options — some councils accept clean concrete for recycling.

Step 4 — Backfill the Hole

Once the footing is out, you'll have a hole to deal with. Backfill options depend on what you're doing next:

Always compact backfill in layers (every 150–200 mm) to prevent future settlement. A hired plate compactor or hand tamper works well here.

Step 5 — Dispose of the Concrete

Broken concrete is heavy — a standard footing can weigh anywhere from 20 kg to well over 100 kg. Don't overload your car or trailer. Most NZ councils accept clean, uncontaminated concrete at transfer stations, sometimes at no charge or for a small fee. Check your local council website for current rules.

When to Call a Professional

Consider hiring a qualified concreter or fencing contractor if:

• The footing is very large or deep (e.g., for a retaining wall post or large gate post)
• You're working near buried services and aren't confident in their exact location
• The ground is extremely hard or rocky and hand tools aren't making progress
• You have multiple footings to remove and the job is beyond your physical capacity
• The fence is part of a retaining structure — removal could affect ground stability

For retaining walls, check whether a building consent is required under the NZ Building Code via MBIE Building Performance — and always confirm with your local council, as requirements vary.

You can find experienced local concreters and fencing contractors on tradedirectory.co.nz to get quotes and advice.

Sources & Further Reading

• WorkSafe NZ — Safe manual handling and tool safety
• MBIE Building Performance — Building consents and the NZ Building Code
• BRANZ — Build magazine and technical guidance
• Bunnings NZ — Tool hire and concrete supplies
• Mitre 10 NZ — Equipment and materials