Painting interior brick walls is absolutely achievable as a DIY project, and the good news is that with the right preparation, products, and tools, you can get a great result without filling in all that lovely texture. The key is to avoid thick, heavy coats of paint that bridge the mortar joints and pores — instead, you want products and techniques that soak into the surface and follow its contours.
Why Brick Texture Is Easy to Lose
Brick is a highly porous, uneven surface. If you apply paint with a standard roller using thick coats, the paint can form a film across the peaks and hollows, effectively plastering over the texture and leaving a flat, lumpy finish. The goal is to work the paint into the surface rather than sitting it on top.
Step 1 — Prepare the Brick Thoroughly
Preparation is the most important part of any paint job, and brick is no exception.
- Clean the surface: Remove dust, cobwebs, grease, and any efflorescence (the white powdery salt deposits common on brick). A stiff-bristled brush works well for loose debris. For efflorescence or mould, use a diluted sugar soap solution and scrub firmly, then rinse and allow to dry completely.
- Check for moisture: Interior brick — especially in older NZ homes — can hold dampness. Press a piece of plastic sheeting against the wall and tape the edges; if moisture collects underneath after 24 hours, you have a moisture issue to resolve before painting. BRANZ has useful guidance on moisture in existing buildings.
- Fill major cracks: Use a flexible masonry filler for any significant cracks in the mortar joints. Minor surface variation is fine — that's the texture you want to keep.
- Allow drying time: New or recently wetted brick should dry for at least 28 days before painting.
Step 2 — Apply a Masonry Primer
A masonry-specific primer is essential. It penetrates the porous surface, seals it, and gives the topcoat something to bond to — without building up a thick film that obscures texture.
Look for a water-based masonry sealer or primer from trusted NZ paint brands. Resene offers products like their Limelock and Broadwall range suited to masonry surfaces. Dulux and Wattyl also carry dedicated masonry primers — check their websites or ask in-store for the right product for interior unpainted brick.
Apply the primer with a thick-nap roller (20–25 mm nap) and work it into the surface. Follow up immediately with a brush to stipple the primer into any recesses the roller missed. This technique is called back-brushing and is the single most important trick for preserving texture.
Step 3 — Choose the Right Paint
For interior brick, you want a water-based masonry or acrylic paint with a low to mid sheen — flat or low-sheen finishes tend to look most natural on brick and don't highlight imperfections the way gloss does.
Avoid standard interior wall paints, which are formulated for smooth surfaces and can sit on top of brick rather than penetrating it. Purpose-made masonry paints have a thinner, more penetrating consistency that follows the surface profile.
| Paint Type | Suitable for Interior Brick? | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Water-based masonry paint | ✅ Yes | Best choice — penetrating, breathable |
| Standard interior acrylic | ⚠️ With care | Use thinned coats; risk of bridging texture |
| Oil-based/alkyd paint | ❌ Not recommended | Traps moisture, can peel on masonry |
| Limewash | ✅ Yes | Traditional look, very texture-friendly |
Step 4 — Apply Paint in Thin, Even Coats
Two thin coats will always outperform one thick coat on brick.
- Use a thick-nap roller (20–25 mm) to apply paint, working in all directions to push paint into the mortar joints and pores.
- Back-brush with a masonry brush or large bristle brush immediately after rolling each section to work paint into recesses.
- Allow the first coat to dry fully (check the manufacturer's drying time — typically 2–4 hours for water-based products) before applying the second coat.
- Don't overload your roller — less paint per pass means better penetration and less risk of bridging.
Step 5 — Finishing Touches
Once the final coat is dry, stand back and check for any areas where the mortar joints look filled or the texture looks lost. In most cases, two thin coats applied correctly will preserve the brick's character beautifully. If you want a more rustic, aged look, a limewash or colour-wash technique (diluting paint with water to around 50%) can give a very natural, textured result.
Ventilation and Safety
Even with water-based paints, ensure the room is well ventilated while you work and during drying. Open windows and use a fan if needed. Check the product safety data sheet for any specific precautions. WorkSafe NZ has guidance on safe use of paints and coatings.
When to Call a Professional
Painting interior brick is generally straightforward DIY work — no building consent is required and there are no restricted trade licensing requirements for painting. However, consider calling a professional painter if:
- The brick has significant moisture, mould, or structural issues that need diagnosing first.
- You're dealing with a large area (such as an entire open-plan living space) where consistency of finish matters.
- The brick has been previously painted with an unknown product that may need specialist preparation or stripping.
A qualified painter will have the right equipment and experience to get a consistent, long-lasting result. You can find local professional painters on tradedirectory.co.nz.
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