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How to Measure Your Kitchen Correctly for New Cabinets

Accurate kitchen measurements are the foundation of a successful cabinet project. Here's how to do it right the first time.

How to Measure Your Kitchen Correctly for New Cabinets

Getting your kitchen measurements right before ordering new cabinets can save you thousands of dollars and weeks of frustration. The good news is that with a few basic tools and a methodical approach, most homeowners can produce an accurate floor plan that a cabinet maker or supplier can work from. That said, a professional cabinet maker will always do their own site measure before fabrication — so treat your measurements as a planning tool rather than a final specification.

Tools You'll Need

Before you start, gather the following:

  • A steel tape measure (at least 5 m long)
  • A spirit level (1.2 m is ideal)
  • A notepad and pencil (or graph paper)
  • A smartphone camera for reference photos
  • A laser distance measurer (optional but very handy — available at Bunnings or Mitre 10)

Step 1 — Sketch Your Floor Plan First

Before measuring anything, draw a rough bird's-eye sketch of your kitchen on paper. Mark every wall, doorway, window, and fixed feature (rangehood flue, chimney breast, structural columns). Label each wall A, B, C, D going clockwise. This sketch becomes your measurement map.

Step 2 — Measure the Walls

Measure each wall at bench height (approximately 900 mm from the floor), not at floor level — floors and ceilings are rarely perfectly level in NZ homes, especially in older villas and bungalows.

  • Measure the full wall length from corner to corner.
  • Then measure the position of every door, window, and opening from the nearest corner, noting both the distance to the edge and the width of the opening.
  • Record the height of each wall from floor to ceiling in at least two spots per wall, as ceiling heights can vary.
  • Note any soffits, bulkheads, or dropped ceilings — these affect upper cabinet height.

Tip: Always double-check measurements by measuring twice in opposite directions. If your numbers don't add up, measure again.

Step 3 — Measure Windows and Doors Carefully

For each window, record:

  • Distance from the corner to the window frame edge
  • Width of the window (frame to frame)
  • Sill height from the floor (this determines whether a cabinet can sit below it)
  • Head height from the floor (this affects upper cabinet placement)

For doors, note which way they swing — a door that opens into the kitchen can block cabinet access if not accounted for in the layout.

Step 4 — Locate Services and Fixed Points

This is where many DIY measurements fall short. You must mark the exact location of:

  • Sink waste and water supply rough-in positions (measure from the nearest corner and from the floor)
  • Dishwasher water and waste connections
  • Oven and cooktop power outlets or gas connections
  • Rangehood ducting or flue position
  • Electrical outlets and switches on the walls where cabinets will go

These fixed points often dictate where certain cabinets must go. Plumbing and gas connections in particular are expensive to move — always work around them where possible. Remember that any changes to gas or plumbing are restricted work under NZ law and must be carried out by a licensed tradesperson registered with the Plumbers, Gasfitters and Drainlayers Board. Similarly, moving or adding electrical outlets requires a registered electrician under the Electrical Workers Registration Board.

Step 5 — Check for Square, Level and Plumb

NZ homes — particularly those built before the 1980s — are notorious for walls that aren't square, floors that aren't level, and corners that aren't 90 degrees. Use your spirit level to:

  • Check whether the floor is level along each wall run
  • Check whether walls are plumb (vertical)
  • Check corner angles with a large set square or by measuring diagonals

Record any significant variations. A cabinet maker will need to scribe or pack cabinets to compensate — this is normal, but they need to know about it upfront.

Step 6 — Record Appliance Dimensions

If you're keeping existing appliances or have already purchased new ones, note their exact dimensions:

ApplianceKey Dimensions to Record
Fridge/freezerWidth, depth, height + hinge clearance
Oven (built-in)Cutout width, height, depth
CooktopCutout width and depth
DishwasherWidth, height, depth
RangehoodWidth, mounting height above cooktop

Standard NZ bench height is 900 mm and standard bench depth is 600 mm, but confirm these suit your household before ordering.

Step 7 — Photograph Everything

Take clear photos of every wall, every corner, and every service location. Photos of existing cabinets showing their relationship to windows, doors and appliances are invaluable for your cabinet maker.

Putting It All Together

Once you have all your measurements, transfer them neatly onto your sketch with all dimensions clearly labelled. Some cabinet suppliers offer free planning software or will accept a dimensioned sketch to produce a 3D layout. PlaceMakers and specialist kitchen retailers often provide this service.

For compliance purposes, note that kitchen renovations involving structural changes, new wet areas, or significant alterations may require a building consent — always check with your local council. Minor like-for-like cabinet replacements are generally exempt under Schedule 1 of the Building Act, but confirm this with your council before starting work. The MBIE Building Performance website has useful guidance on what requires consent.

When to Call a Professional

While measuring is something most homeowners can do, a qualified cabinet maker will always carry out their own precise site measure before fabrication. If your kitchen has complex angles, unusual ceiling heights, structural features, or you're planning a full renovation involving plumbing, electrical or gas work, bring in the professionals early. A cabinet maker can spot potential problems — like a wall that's out of plumb by 20 mm — that could cause costly issues later.

You can find experienced, local cabinet makers on tradedirectory.co.nz to help with your project from measure-up through to installation.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the standard bench height for NZ kitchens?+

The standard kitchen bench height in New Zealand is 900 mm from the floor, with a standard bench depth of 600 mm. However, these can be adjusted to suit the height of the people using the kitchen — discuss this with your cabinet maker if you'd like a custom height.

Do I need a building consent to replace my kitchen cabinets?+

Like-for-like cabinet replacement is generally exempt from building consent under Schedule 1 of the Building Act. However, if you're making structural changes, moving plumbing, or altering a wet area, consent may be required. Always confirm with your local council before starting work, as requirements can vary.

Can I move my kitchen sink to a new location myself?+

No. Moving a sink involves altering water supply and waste plumbing, which is restricted work in New Zealand. It must be carried out by a licensed plumber registered with the Plumbers, Gasfitters and Drainlayers Board (PGDB). Doing this work yourself is illegal and could affect your home insurance.

How much tolerance should I allow in my measurements?+

For planning purposes, aim to measure to the nearest millimetre and always record the smallest measurement if a wall varies. Cabinet makers typically allow a scribing margin of 10–20 mm at walls and ceilings to account for variations, but your cabinet maker will advise on the tolerances they work to.

Should I measure my kitchen before or after removing old cabinets?+

Ideally, measure with the old cabinets in place first for planning, then have your cabinet maker do a final measure once the old cabinets are removed. This gives the most accurate picture of the actual wall, floor and ceiling conditions, including any hidden variations that old cabinets may have been covering up.

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