Pricing a new fence yourself is entirely achievable with a tape measure, a notepad, and a methodical approach. While a quantity surveyor adds real value on large or complex projects, most homeowners can produce a solid fence estimate by breaking the job into three stages: measure the site, calculate materials, and price everything up. Here's how to do it.
Step 1 — Measure Your Fence Line
Start by walking the boundary you want to fence and sketching a rough plan. Measure the total run (length) of the fence line in metres using a long tape measure or a laser distance measurer. Note any:
- Gates — measure the opening width you need (typically 900 mm for a pedestrian gate, 2.4–3.6 m for a vehicle gate)
- Corners and changes of direction — these affect post placement
- Slopes or level changes — stepped or raked fencing requires extra calculation
- Existing structures — walls, buildings, or trees that the fence must meet
Write everything down. A simple sketch with dimensions is worth far more than trying to hold it all in your head.
Step 2 — Choose Your Fence Style
The style you choose drives every material quantity. Common NZ residential options include:
| Style | Typical post spacing | Main materials |
|---|---|---|
| Timber paling (lapped) | 1.8 m | Posts, rails, palings, nails |
| Timber post-and-rail | 2.4–3.0 m | Posts, rails |
| Coloured steel (e.g. Colorsteel) | 2.4 m | Posts, panels, fixings |
| Concrete block | N/A | Blocks, mortar, reinforcing |
| Wire (farm/rural) | 2.4–3.0 m | Posts, wire, staples, strainers |
For most suburban sections, timber paling or steel panel fencing is the go-to. Check your local council's district plan for any height restrictions — many councils limit boundary fences to 1.8 m or 2.0 m without a resource consent.
Step 3 — Calculate Your Materials
Once you know the run length and style, work through each component:
Posts
Divide your total run by your chosen post spacing, then add 1 (you need a post at each end). For example, a 20 m run at 1.8 m spacing = 20 ÷ 1.8 = 11.1, rounded up to 12, plus 1 end post = 13 posts. Add extra posts for each corner and gate.
Post depth rule of thumb: bury at least one-third of the post length in the ground. A 1.8 m fence typically uses a 2.4 m post (600 mm in ground).
Rails
Most paling fences use two or three horizontal rails per bay. Multiply the number of bays by the number of rails, then multiply by the bay width to get total rail length in metres. Add 10% for waste and cuts.
Palings or Panels
For lapped palings, divide the total run by the net cover width of each paling (typically 75–100 mm net for a 100 mm paling with 10–25 mm overlap). Round up to the nearest whole paling.
Concrete for Posts
Allow roughly one 20 kg bag of rapid-set concrete per post for standard residential posts. You can find concrete and all the above materials at Bunnings, Mitre 10, or PlaceMakers.
Fixings and Hardware
Don't forget: nails or screws, gate hinges, a gate latch, and any post caps. These are easy to underestimate — add a 10–15% contingency to your fixings budget.
Step 4 — Price It Up
With your material quantities in hand, get prices from at least two suppliers. As a broad guide (NZ, subject to change):
- H4-treated timber posts (100×100 mm, 2.4 m): roughly $20–$40 each
- Rough-sawn rails (75×50 mm, 4.8 m): roughly $15–$25 each
- Timber palings (100×25 mm, 1.8 m): roughly $3–$6 each
- Rapid-set concrete (20 kg bag): roughly $10–$15
These are approximate figures only — always get current quotes from your local supplier.
Labour is typically the biggest cost if you're hiring a fencer. Tradesperson day rates vary by region; get at least two or three quotes. You can find qualified local fencing contractors on tradedirectory.co.nz.
Step 5 — Check Consents and Boundary Rules
In New Zealand, many residential fences are exempt from building consent under Schedule 1 of the Building Act 2004, provided they meet certain height and construction criteria. However, rules vary — always confirm with your local council before you start. MBIE Building Performance has useful guidance on consent exemptions.
Also check the Fencing Act 1978, which governs cost-sharing with neighbours for boundary fences. If your neighbour is contributing, you'll need to serve a fencing notice before work begins.
Step 6 — Add a Contingency
Even experienced estimators build in a buffer. Add 10–15% to your total material and labour estimate to cover unexpected ground conditions (rock, tree roots), price changes, or measurement errors. This is standard practice in the industry.
When to Call a Professional
Consider engaging a qualified fencing contractor or quantity surveyor if:
- Your fence run is long or complex (retaining elements, significant slopes, shared boundaries in dispute)
- You're dealing with a retaining wall combined with a fence — retaining walls over 1.5 m typically require building consent and may need engineering input
- You're unsure about boundary locations — a licensed cadastral surveyor can peg your boundaries accurately
- The project involves electrical fencing near livestock — always follow WorkSafe NZ guidelines for electric fence safety
For straightforward jobs, a good local fencing contractor will often provide a free measure and quote, which you can use as a cross-check against your own estimate. Find one near you on tradedirectory.co.nz.
Site Safe
Licensed Building Practitioner (LBP)
ISO 9001 / 45001 / 14001
NZ Institute of Building (NZIOB)
