Herringbone vinyl plank flooring looks stunning and is absolutely achievable as a DIY project — but it does demand more planning and patience than a standard straight lay. The key is getting your layout lines right before you glue or click a single plank into place. Follow these steps and you'll end up with a floor that looks like a professional installed it.
What You'll Need Before You Start
Gather your tools and materials before you begin:
- Herringbone-compatible luxury vinyl planks (LVP) — check the manufacturer's spec sheet confirms herringbone use, as some click-lock profiles are not suitable for angled cuts
- Tape measure, chalk line, and a large set square or framing square
- Pencil and marking gauge
- Utility knife (for scoring and snapping thinner planks) or a mitre saw / table saw for cleaner angled cuts
- Rubber mallet and tapping block (for click-lock systems)
- Notched trowel and pressure-sensitive adhesive (for glue-down systems)
- Spacers for expansion gaps
- Safety glasses and knee pads
Buy 10–15% extra material to account for the angled cuts — herringbone wastes significantly more than a straight lay.
Choosing the Right Vinyl Plank
Not all vinyl planks work in herringbone. Look for:
- Rectangular planks with a consistent width-to-length ratio (commonly 150 mm × 600 mm or 200 mm × 1000 mm work well)
- A wear layer of at least 0.3 mm for residential use, or 0.5 mm+ for high-traffic areas
- Either a glue-down or click-lock system — both can work, though glue-down gives a more stable result for herringbone because angled joints in click systems can be harder to keep tight
Check with your local flooring supplier at Bunnings, Mitre 10, or PlaceMakers to confirm the product is rated for herringbone installation.
Preparing the Subfloor
A herringbone pattern will highlight any subfloor imperfections, so preparation is critical.
- The subfloor must be clean, dry, and flat — within 3 mm over a 1.8 m straightedge is a common industry tolerance, but always follow your product's spec sheet
- Fill low spots with a suitable floor-levelling compound such as those from Ardex or Mapei
- Sand down high spots or ridges
- Allow concrete subfloors to fully cure and check moisture levels — excess moisture is a common cause of vinyl failure in NZ homes, particularly in older houses without a vapour barrier
- Remove skirting boards to allow for expansion gaps (typically 5–10 mm — check your product's requirements)
Planning Your Herringbone Layout
This is the most important step. Rushing it causes crooked rows that are impossible to fix later.
Find the Centre of the Room
- Measure and mark the midpoint of each wall.
- Snap chalk lines between opposite midpoints to find the room's centre point.
- Use a framing square to confirm the lines are perfectly perpendicular (90°).
Set Your Herringbone Spine
Herringbone is laid at 45° to the walls in most cases, though a straight herringbone (parallel to walls) is also popular. Decide which orientation suits your room shape — longer, narrower rooms often look better with the pattern running lengthways.
- For a 45° herringbone: draw a diagonal guide line through the centre at 45° to your chalk lines. This becomes your spine.
- For a straight herringbone: use one of your original chalk lines as the spine.
- Dry-lay several planks along the spine to check the pattern and see how it meets the walls before committing.
Plan for Cut Pieces at the Edges
Aim for border cuts that are at least half a plank width — adjust your starting point if needed. Symmetrical borders on opposite walls look the most professional.
Laying the Planks
| Step | Action |
|---|---|
| 1 | Lay the first two planks in an "L" shape along your spine line, forming the first herringbone "V" |
| 2 | Work outward from the centre in both directions, keeping the pattern consistent |
| 3 | For click-lock: engage each plank at the correct angle before pressing down |
| 4 | For glue-down: apply adhesive in manageable sections (check open time on the tin) and press planks firmly |
| 5 | Use a rubber mallet and tapping block to close joints — never strike planks directly |
| 6 | Check alignment every few rows with your chalk line |
| 7 | Cut border planks accurately using a mitre saw set to 45° for the angled edges |
Tip: Label your cut pieces as you go — herringbone generates a lot of off-cuts and some can be reused on the opposite side of the room.
Finishing Up
- Reinstall skirting boards or fit scotia/quad beading to cover expansion gaps
- Allow glue-down floors to cure fully before heavy foot traffic (check the adhesive manufacturer's instructions)
- Clean the floor with a damp mop — avoid harsh chemicals that can damage the wear layer
When to Call a Professional
Herringbone is one of the more demanding DIY flooring projects. Consider hiring a qualified flooring installer (you can find local professionals on tradedirectory.co.nz) if:
- Your subfloor has significant moisture issues, structural movement, or is badly uneven
- You're working with an irregular room shape with multiple angles or obstacles
- You've not laid flooring before and the area is large or highly visible
- The product manufacturer's warranty requires professional installation
A professional will also be familiar with BRANZ best-practice guidelines and NZ Building Code requirements relevant to flooring in wet areas or over in-slab heating.
Safety note: When cutting vinyl planks, always wear safety glasses. If your home was built before 1990, check for asbestos-containing materials in existing floor adhesives or vinyl tiles before sanding or disturbing them — contact WorkSafe NZ for guidance.
