A brick soldier course — bricks stood upright on their end with the long face showing — is a classic way to cap a garden wall, retaining wall, or boundary wall. Done well, it gives a clean, formal finish that sheds water and adds real kerb appeal. This guide walks you through the process using standard trade practice suited to NZ conditions.
What Is a Soldier Course?
In bricklaying, a soldier is a brick positioned vertically with its face (stretcher face) visible. When used as a wall cap, a row of soldiers sits on top of the last course of the wall, creating a neat raised edge. Because the bricks are standing on their end, they expose a smaller bed area, so careful mortar work and alignment are especially important.
Planning and Materials
Calculate Your Bricks
Standard NZ bricks are typically 230 mm long × 110 mm wide × 76 mm high. When stood as soldiers, each brick occupies roughly 76 mm of wall length (plus a 10 mm mortar joint), so you'll need approximately 12–13 bricks per linear metre. Always order 5–10% extra for cuts and breakages.
Check the Wall Width
A single soldier course works best on a wall that is one brick wide (110 mm) or wider. On a 110 mm wall, the soldier sits flush with both faces — tidy and stable. On wider walls, you may need a double soldier course or a combination cap; check what suits your wall thickness before ordering.
Mortar Mix
For a wall cap exposed to NZ weather — especially in wetter regions or coastal areas — use a 1:4 cement-to-sand mix (one part Portland cement to four parts bricklaying sand) or a 1:1:5 cement-lime-sand mix for slightly more workability. Avoid a weak mix; the cap takes the brunt of rain and frost. Pre-mixed bricklaying mortars are available from Bunnings and Mitre 10 if you prefer convenience. Products from Sika and Ardex also offer quality mortar solutions worth considering.
Tools You'll Need
- Brick trowel and pointing trowel
- Rubber mallet
- Spirit level (at least 1.2 m)
- Builder's line and pins
- Tape measure and pencil
- Angle grinder or brick saw for cuts
- Jointing iron or bucket handle
- Sponge and bucket for clean-up
- Safety glasses and gloves
Step-by-Step: Laying the Soldier Course
1. Prepare the Top of the Wall
Scrape off any loose mortar and dampen the top course of bricks with clean water. This prevents the existing brickwork from drawing moisture out of your fresh mortar too quickly — a common cause of weak joints in NZ's drier summer conditions.
2. Do a Dry Run
Before mixing mortar, lay the soldiers along the wall dry (no mortar) to work out your spacing and identify where cuts will fall. Aim to avoid tiny slivers at the ends — adjust joint width slightly (8–12 mm is acceptable) to achieve balanced cuts at each end.
3. Set Your Line
Fix a builder's line along the front face of the wall at the finished height of the soldier course. This is your guide for keeping bricks plumb, level, and in line. Check the line is level with your spirit level.
4. Lay the Mortar Bed
Spread a 10–12 mm mortar bed along the top of the wall for three or four bricks at a time — don't spread too far ahead or the mortar will skin over. Furrow the bed lightly with your trowel tip to help adhesion.
5. Set Each Soldier Brick
Butter the short end (header face) of each brick with mortar before placing it — this forms the vertical joint between soldiers. Press each brick firmly into the bed, tap gently with your rubber mallet, and check it is:
- Plumb (vertical face flush with the line)
- Level across the top
- Aligned with its neighbours
Work from one end to the other, checking every few bricks with your spirit level.
6. Tool the Joints
Once the mortar is thumb-print firm (usually 30–60 minutes depending on conditions), run a jointing iron along the vertical joints and then the bed joint beneath the soldiers. A slightly recessed, rounded joint sheds water well and looks professional.
7. Clean Up
Remove mortar smears with a damp sponge before they harden. Avoid washing mortar into the joints. Allow the cap to cure for at least 48 hours before exposing it to heavy rain or foot traffic.
Weatherproofing Considerations
NZ's BRANZ research highlights that wall caps are a primary entry point for moisture into masonry walls. Consider applying a clear masonry sealer once the mortar has fully cured (28 days) to reduce water ingress, particularly in high-rainfall areas like the West Coast or Northland. Check manufacturer guidance for the sealer you choose.
Do You Need a Building Consent?
For most low garden or boundary walls, a soldier course cap is straightforward maintenance or minor work. However, if you are building a new retaining wall over 1.5 m high or a freestanding wall over 1.2 m, a building consent may be required. Schedule 1 of the Building Act lists exemptions, but rules vary — always confirm with your local council before starting. See MBIE Building Performance for general guidance.
When to Call a Professional
If your wall is structural, retaining significant soil loads, or part of a building, get a qualified bricklayer or mason involved. Poorly capped retaining walls can fail dangerously. A licensed bricklayer will also ensure the mortar specification and detailing meet NZ Building Code requirements. You can find experienced local bricklayers on tradedirectory.co.nz.
Licensed Building Practitioner (LBP)
