Installing skirting boards after a floating floor is one of the final steps that gives your room a clean, professional finish — and it's well within reach of a confident DIYer. The key rule is simple: fix skirting boards to the wall only, never to the floating floor, so the floor can expand and contract freely underneath.
Why the Expansion Gap Matters
Floating floors — whether laminate, engineered timber, or luxury vinyl plank (LVP) — are not glued or nailed to the subfloor. They move as a single sheet in response to changes in temperature and humidity, which is especially relevant in New Zealand homes where conditions can swing significantly between seasons.
Most manufacturers require an expansion gap of 8–12 mm around the perimeter of the room (check your specific product's installation guide, as this varies). The skirting board sits over this gap, hiding it neatly. If you pin the skirting to the floor, you'll restrict that movement and risk buckling, peaking, or gapping in your floor over time.
Tools and Materials You'll Need
- Skirting boards (MDF, pine, or primed timber — available at Bunnings or Mitre 10)
- Mitre saw or drop saw
- Nail gun (brad nailer) or hammer and lost-head nails
- Stud finder
- Tape measure and pencil
- Caulking gun and paintable acrylic sealant
- Sandpaper (120–180 grit)
- Paint or primer (if using unfinished boards)
- Spacer blocks or offcuts (to maintain a consistent gap above the floor)
Step-by-Step Installation Guide
1. Prepare and Prime Your Skirting
If you're using bare MDF or timber skirting, apply a coat of primer before installation. It's much easier to paint the backs and edges now than after they're fixed to the wall. Resene and Dulux both offer suitable water-based primers for interior timber and MDF.
2. Measure and Cut
Measure each wall carefully. For internal corners, cope or butt-join the boards (butt joins are fine for most DIY installs). For external corners, cut 45-degree mitres on your drop saw so the boards meet neatly. Always cut a little long and trim back — you can't add length back on.
3. Position the Skirting Correctly
Place a spacer (a thin offcut or a few coins) under the skirting board so it sits just above the floating floor surface — typically 1–2 mm clearance. This ensures the floor can slide freely beneath the board without the skirting resting on it and creating friction or noise.
4. Fix to the Wall Only
Use a stud finder to locate wall framing. Nail or screw the skirting into the wall studs or bottom plate, not into the floor or subfloor. A brad nailer makes this quick and clean. If you're fixing into a plasterboard wall between studs, use appropriate wall anchors or construction adhesive applied to the wall face only — keeping the bottom edge free of the floor.
5. Fill Nail Holes and Sand
Once all boards are fixed, fill nail holes with a flexible filler or painter's putty. Sand smooth once dry.
6. Caulk the Top Edge
Run a thin bead of paintable acrylic caulk along the top edge where the skirting meets the wall. This seals any small gaps and gives a crisp painted finish. Do not caulk the bottom edge where the skirting meets the floor — that gap needs to remain free for floor movement.
7. Paint and Finish
Apply your topcoats. Two coats of a quality water-based trim enamel will give a durable, washable finish. Semi-gloss or gloss sheens are traditional for skirtings and show off the profile nicely.
Dealing with Door Frames and Obstacles
Where skirting meets a door architrave, you have two options: scribe and butt the skirting into the architrave, or undercut the architrave with a multi-tool or handsaw so the skirting slides neatly underneath. Undercutting generally gives a cleaner result and is the preferred trade method.
Choosing the Right Skirting Profile
NZ homes commonly use colonial, bullnose, or pencil-round profiles. MDF skirting is cost-effective and paints well; finger-jointed pine is a good mid-range option; solid timber is premium. Match the height and profile to your existing architraves for a cohesive look. Taller skirtings (90–135 mm) suit older villas and bungalows; 60–70 mm suits modern homes.
When to Call a Professional
Skirting installation is generally not restricted work under the NZ Building Code, so homeowners can tackle it themselves. However, consider calling a qualified flooring installer or carpenter (you can find local tradespeople on tradedirectory.co.nz) if:
- Your room has complex angles, bay windows, or curved walls
- You're unsure whether your floating floor has been installed with adequate expansion gaps
- The existing skirtings are original to an older home and may contain lead paint (common pre-1980) — check with WorkSafe NZ guidelines before sanding or removing
- You want a seamless finish that matches heritage joinery throughout the home
Always check with your local council if any associated work (such as structural alterations) might require a building consent — MBIE Building Performance has clear guidance on Schedule 1 exemptions.
