Installing a fence panel between two existing brick pillars is a satisfying weekend project for a capable DIYer. The key steps are accurate measuring, choosing the right fixing method, and making sure the panel is level and secure. Done well, it'll look tidy and last for years — done poorly, it can sag, rattle, or even fall.
Measure the Opening First
Before buying anything, measure the clear opening between the two pillars — width at the top, middle, and bottom. Brick pillars are rarely perfectly parallel, so take all three measurements and work to the narrowest. Also measure the height you need the panel to reach.
Standard fence panels in NZ are typically available in widths of 1.2 m, 1.5 m, 1.8 m, and heights of 0.9 m to 1.8 m. If your opening doesn't match a standard size, you have two options: buy a panel and trim it (timber panels only — not all panel types suit this), or have a panel custom-made by a local fencing supplier.
Choose Your Panel Type
Common panel types suited to brick pillar installations include:
- Timber paling or picket panels — classic NZ look, easy to trim, paintable
- Lapped or featheredge timber panels — good privacy, widely available
- Aluminium slat panels — low maintenance, suits modern homes
- Coloured steel infill panels — very durable, often used with brick
Check that your chosen panel material is compatible with the fixing method you plan to use (see below).
Decide on a Fixing Method
This is the most important decision. There are three main approaches for fixing panels to brick pillars:
1. Timber Battens (Ledger Boards)
Fix treated timber battens (typically 50 × 50 mm H3.2 treated) to the face of each pillar using masonry anchors or dynabolts. The panel then screws or nails to the battens. This is the most common DIY-friendly method and works well for timber panels.
2. Panel Clips or Brackets
Specialist fence panel brackets (available at Bunnings or Mitre 10) bolt to the masonry and grip the panel frame. These are neat and adjustable — ideal for aluminium or steel panels.
3. Recessed Channels
If the pillars were built with recessed slots (sometimes called pillar grooves), you can simply slide the panel frame into the channel. This is the cleanest finish but requires the pillars to have been built this way.
Tools and Materials You'll Need
| Item | Notes |
|---|---|
| Tape measure and pencil | For marking fixing points |
| Hammer drill with masonry bit | For drilling into brick |
| Dynabolts or masonry anchors | Sized to suit your batten/bracket |
| Treated timber battens (if using method 1) | H3.2 minimum for ground-contact risk |
| Stainless or galvanised screws | Avoid plain steel — it will rust |
| Spirit level | Essential for a level panel |
| Safety glasses and hearing protection | Drilling masonry creates dust and noise |
Step-by-Step Installation
- Mark your batten or bracket positions on each pillar. Use a spirit level to ensure they're at the same height on both sides.
- Drill masonry holes using a hammer drill. Start with a smaller pilot hole, then open to the correct diameter for your anchor. Wear safety glasses — brick dust is a hazard.
- Fix battens or brackets to the pillars. Check they're plumb and level before fully tightening.
- Offer up the panel — get a helper for this step, panels can be heavy and awkward. Rest the panel on temporary packers (off-cuts of timber work well) to hold it at the right height while you fix it.
- Fix the panel to the battens or brackets, checking for level as you go. Use stainless or hot-dipped galvanised fixings throughout — NZ's coastal and wet climates will rust plain steel quickly.
- Check for gaps at the top, sides, and bottom. Small gaps can be covered with capping or trim pieces. Large gaps may need a custom filler strip.
- Apply any finishing — paint, stain, or sealant as required for your panel type. Resene and Dulux both offer exterior timber coatings suited to NZ conditions.
NZ Building Code and Consent Considerations
Most residential fence replacements and repairs are exempt from building consent under Schedule 1 of the Building Act — but this depends on the fence height, location, and whether it's on a boundary. Fences over 2.5 m high, or those near a boundary with a road, may require consent. Always check with your local council before starting, especially if the fence is on a property boundary or near a retaining structure.
For guidance on what work requires consent, visit MBIE Building Performance.
When to Call a Professional
Consider hiring a qualified fencer if:
- The opening is an unusual size and you need a custom panel fabricated
- The brick pillars are cracked, leaning, or unstable — a fencer or builder should assess them before you add load
- You're working near a boundary and need advice on consent or neighbour agreements
- The panel is heavy (steel or composite) and requires specialist fixing
- You're not confident using a hammer drill in masonry
A professional fencer will have the right tools, fixings, and experience to get the job done quickly and correctly. You can find qualified local fencers on tradedirectory.co.nz.
