A brick soldier course — bricks stood upright on their end, side by side — is one of the most attractive and long-lasting ways to edge a garden bed. With good preparation and a bit of patience, it's a satisfying DIY project most handy homeowners can tackle over a weekend.
What Is a Soldier Course?
In bricklaying, a soldier course refers to bricks laid vertically (standing upright) with their long face visible. When used as garden edging, the bricks are set in a trench, partially buried for stability, with the top portion forming a neat, defined border. This style suits both formal and cottage-style NZ gardens and pairs well with concrete paths, timber decking, or lawn edges.
Planning and Materials
Before you buy anything, measure the total perimeter of your garden bed and sketch out your layout, noting any curves or corners.
What you'll need:
- Standard NZ clay or concrete bricks (recycled bricks work well and are widely available)
- Coarse sand or crusher dust for bedding
- Mortar mix (cement, sand, and water) or a pre-mixed bagged mortar
- A spade and flat-bottomed trenching spade
- String line and pegs
- Spirit level and rubber mallet
- Trowel and pointing tool
- Tape measure
As a rough guide, standard NZ bricks are approximately 230 mm long × 110 mm wide × 76 mm high. For a soldier course edging, you'll typically bury around 50–80 mm into the ground, leaving 100–130 mm exposed above finished soil level. Calculate your brick quantities based on your perimeter length, allowing around 5–10% extra for cuts and breakages.
You can source bricks and mortar from Bunnings, Mitre 10, or PlaceMakers. Recycled bricks from demolition yards are a popular and cost-effective NZ option.
Step-by-Step Installation
1. Mark Out the Edge
Use string lines and pegs to define the exact line of your edging. For curves, use a garden hose or rope to mark a smooth line before digging.
2. Dig the Trench
Dig a trench approximately 150–200 mm deep and slightly wider than the brick's thickness (around 120–130 mm). A flat-bottomed spade gives the cleanest result. Keep the trench sides as vertical as possible.
3. Prepare the Base
Add 50–75 mm of compacted coarse sand or crusher dust to the bottom of the trench. This provides a stable, level bedding layer and helps with minor drainage. Compact it firmly and check it's level along the run.
4. Mix Your Mortar
For a standard garden edging mortar, a mix of 1 part cement to 4–5 parts coarse sand is typical. Add water gradually until the mix holds its shape without being sloppy. Pre-mixed bagged mortar is a convenient alternative for smaller jobs. Products from Sika or Ardex are worth considering for quality mortar and adhesive options.
5. Set the First Brick
Bed a small amount of mortar onto the sand base and press your first brick firmly into position, upright (soldier position). Use your spirit level to check it's plumb (vertical) and at the correct height. Tap gently with a rubber mallet to adjust.
6. Continue Along the Run
Butter the side face of each subsequent brick with mortar before placing it tight against the previous one. Maintain consistent joint thickness — around 10 mm is standard. Check level and alignment every few bricks using your string line as a guide.
7. Cutting Bricks for Corners and Curves
For 90° corners, mitre-cut bricks at 45° using an angle grinder with a diamond blade or a brick bolster and club hammer. For gentle curves, you can fan the bricks slightly, allowing the joints to be slightly wider on the outer edge. Tighter curves may require cutting.
Safety note: Always wear safety glasses, hearing protection, and gloves when cutting bricks. Use a dust mask rated for silica dust — WorkSafe NZ has guidance on managing silica dust exposure, which is a genuine health risk when cutting masonry.
8. Backfill and Point the Joints
Once the mortar has set enough to hold the bricks firmly (usually a few hours), backfill soil on the garden bed side and compact lightly. Finish the exposed joints by pointing with a slightly recessed or flush finish using a pointing tool or the edge of your trowel. Clean off any mortar smears with a damp sponge before they fully cure.
9. Allow to Cure
Leave the mortar to cure for at least 24–48 hours before disturbing the edging. In cooler NZ conditions (especially in the South Island or during winter), allow longer curing time and protect from frost if needed.
NZ Climate Considerations
In wetter NZ regions, good drainage behind the edging is important to prevent waterlogging and frost heave. Avoid trapping water between the edging and a hard surface. In coastal areas, use bricks rated for exposure conditions, as salt air can degrade some lower-quality concrete bricks over time. BRANZ has useful guidance on material durability in NZ's varied climates.
Do You Need a Building Consent?
For a simple garden bed edging soldier course, building consent is generally not required — this type of low garden wall or edging typically falls under Schedule 1 exemptions of the Building Act. However, if you're building a retaining wall over 1.5 m high or a structure that could affect drainage or neighbouring properties, consent may be needed. Always confirm with your local council before starting any masonry work that goes beyond basic garden edging.
When to Call a Professional
While a soldier course edging is well within DIY reach, consider hiring a qualified bricklayer if:
- Your garden bed has significant changes in level requiring a proper retaining wall
- You're working with heritage or character bricks that need careful matching
- The job is large-scale or involves complex curves and patterns
- You're unsure about drainage or ground stability
A skilled bricklayer will complete the job faster, with cleaner results and the right structural knowledge. You can find qualified local bricklayers on tradedirectory.co.nz.
Sources & Further Reading
- BRANZ – Building materials and durability guidance
- WorkSafe NZ – Silica dust and masonry safety
- MBIE Building Performance – Building consent and Schedule 1 exemptions
- Bunnings – Bricks, mortar and landscaping supplies
- PlaceMakers – Masonry and building materials
- Sika NZ – Mortar and masonry products
Licensed Building Practitioner (LBP)
