A sunken paver on your garden path is one of those satisfying DIY jobs that most homeowners can tackle in an afternoon with basic tools and a bit of patience. The key is understanding why the paver sank in the first place — fix the cause, not just the symptom, and you'll get a long-lasting result.
Why Do Pavers Sink?
Before you grab a spade, it pays to understand what caused the problem. Common culprits in NZ gardens include:
- Poor or eroded bedding sand — water washes fine sand away over time, leaving voids beneath the paver.
- Soft or poorly compacted subbase — if the gravel or compacted fill beneath the sand wasn't properly prepared at installation, it will settle unevenly.
- Tree roots — nearby roots can lift or displace pavers, or rot away and leave hollows.
- Water pooling — poor drainage causes the ground to soften and subside. This is especially common in NZ's wetter regions.
- Heavy loads — vehicles or heavy equipment crossing a path not designed for that load.
If multiple pavers are sinking or the problem keeps recurring, you may have a drainage or subbase issue that needs more than a quick re-lay.
Tools and Materials You'll Need
- Flat pry bar or bolster chisel
- Rubber mallet
- Stiff brush
- Spirit level (at least 600 mm long)
- Coarse bedding sand (also called washed coarse sand or bricklayers' sand)
- Compactable gravel or GAP 20 metal (if the subbase needs topping up)
- Jointing sand or polymeric sand for the joints
- Safety gloves and eye protection
You can pick up most of these materials at Bunnings, Mitre 10, or PlaceMakers.
Step-by-Step: How to Re-Level a Sunken Paver
1. Clear the Joint Sand
Using a stiff brush or old screwdriver, scrape out the jointing sand from around the sunken paver. You need to free the edges so you can lift it cleanly without cracking it or the surrounding pavers.
2. Lift the Paver
Slide a flat pry bar or bolster chisel into the joint and gently lever the paver up. Work carefully — concrete and clay pavers can crack if forced. Once you get a corner up, you can usually lift it by hand. Set it aside on a flat surface.
3. Inspect the Bedding Layer
Look at the sand bed underneath. Is it washed out, compacted unevenly, or full of roots or debris? Scrape out the old sand and any loose material. If the gravel subbase looks thin or soft, add a layer of compactable gravel and tamp it down firmly with a hand tamper or the end of a timber offcut.
4. Add and Screed Fresh Bedding Sand
Spread a layer of coarse bedding sand — typically 25–40 mm deep — and screed it level using a straight piece of timber. Use your spirit level frequently. The goal is a firm, even surface that sits the paver at the correct finished height, flush with its neighbours.
Tip: Slightly overfill the sand bed by 5–10 mm, then tamp the paver down to the right level. Sand compresses when the paver is set.
5. Re-Lay the Paver
Lower the paver back into position and tap it down firmly with a rubber mallet. Check it with your spirit level in both directions and against the surrounding pavers. Adjust the sand bed as needed until it sits perfectly flush.
6. Re-Fill the Joints
Brush jointing sand or polymeric sand into the gaps around the paver. Polymeric sand is worth considering — it binds when wet, resists washing out, and helps deter weeds. Tamp it in gently and top up until the joints are full. Sweep off any excess.
7. Compact and Finish
For a single paver, a few firm taps with the rubber mallet is usually sufficient. If you've re-laid several pavers, a plate compactor (available to hire from most tool hire shops) will give a more even result. Lightly dampen the joints if using polymeric sand to activate the binder.
Checking Your Work
Once done, check that:
- The paver sits flush with its neighbours (no trip hazard)
- Water drains away from the house and doesn't pool on the path
- The joints are fully filled
A path that drains correctly is important under the NZ Building Code clause E1 (Surface Water), which requires surface water to be directed away from buildings. If your path is close to the house and you notice water pooling toward the foundation, it's worth getting a landscaper or drainage specialist to assess the grading.
For guidance on drainage and moisture management around your home, BRANZ is an excellent NZ resource.
When to Call a Professional
While a single sunken paver is a straightforward DIY job, consider calling a qualified landscaper if:
- Multiple pavers are sinking — this usually signals a subbase or drainage problem that needs proper assessment and remediation.
- The path is near your house foundation — poor drainage here can cause serious structural issues.
- Tree roots are involved — root management requires care to avoid damaging the tree or underground services.
- The path is a retaining structure — any retaining wall over 1.5 m high generally requires a building consent and engineering input. Always check with your local council, as requirements vary. See MBIE Building Performance for general guidance on consent requirements.
- You're not confident in the result — a trip hazard on a path is a real safety risk, especially for older family members or visitors.
You can find experienced local landscapers on tradedirectory.co.nz who can assess and fix more complex paving problems quickly and correctly.
Licensed Building Practitioner (LBP)
