Fitting new flooring under kitchen kickboards without removing them is absolutely doable — and it's a technique professional flooring installers use all the time. The key is undercutting the kickboard (also called a toe kick or plinth) so your new flooring slides neatly underneath, giving a clean, built-in finish without the hassle of dismantling your cabinetry.
Why Avoid Removing the Kickboard?
Kickboards on NZ kitchens are often clipped, glued, or nailed in place, and removing them risks cracking the board, damaging the cabinet carcass, or snapping the plastic clips that hold them. If your kitchen is older or the kickboards are painted in, removal can quickly turn a simple flooring job into a cabinet repair job. Undercutting is faster, neater, and far less risky.
What You'll Need
- Undercut (jamb) saw — the most important tool for this job
- A piece of your new flooring as a height guide
- Oscillating multi-tool (optional but handy for tight corners)
- Sharp chisel and mallet
- Tape measure and pencil
- Vacuum or brush
- Safety glasses and dust mask
Undercut saws (sometimes called jamb saws or door-bottom saws) are available for hire or purchase at Bunnings or Mitre 10. If you're only doing one kitchen, hiring is usually the more economical choice.
Step-by-Step: Undercutting the Kickboard
1. Measure Your Flooring Thickness
Lay a scrap piece of your new flooring flat on the existing subfloor in front of the kickboard. This becomes your cutting guide. If you're also using underlay, stack a piece of underlay beneath the flooring sample — you need to cut high enough for both layers to slide under cleanly. Allow an extra 1–2 mm of clearance so the flooring isn't pinched.
2. Set Your Undercut Saw Depth
Place the undercut saw on top of your flooring sample (with underlay if applicable). This automatically sets the blade to the correct height. Lock the depth setting on the saw before you start cutting.
3. Make the Cut
Run the undercut saw along the base of the kickboard in a smooth, steady pass. Keep the saw flat and move slowly — kickboards are often MDF or thin particleboard, which can chip if you rush. Work across the full width of each kickboard panel.
Safety note: Always wear safety glasses and a dust mask. MDF dust is a respiratory irritant. Work in a ventilated space and follow WorkSafe NZ guidelines for dust exposure.
4. Clear the Waste
Use a chisel to remove any remaining material in the cut zone, and vacuum out the gap thoroughly. Run your hand along the slot to check there are no obstructions — screws, staples, or dried adhesive can all catch the flooring edge.
5. Test-Fit Before You Glue or Click
Slide a scrap piece of flooring into the undercut gap before you commit to installing. It should slide in with light hand pressure and sit flush with the surrounding floor. If it's too tight, carefully widen the cut with a chisel or oscillating tool.
Installing the Flooring Into the Gap
How you fit the flooring under the kickboard depends on your flooring type:
| Flooring Type | Technique |
|---|---|
| Floating click-lock (laminate/LVP) | Angle the plank and slide the tongue end under the kickboard first, then click into the previous row |
| Glue-down vinyl or timber | Apply adhesive to the subfloor, slide the plank under, and press firmly |
| Sheet vinyl | Slide the sheet under, trim to fit, and secure the edge with adhesive or a trim strip |
For click-lock floating floors (very common in NZ kitchens), the trick is to work your way toward the kickboard. Cut the final plank to width, then angle it slightly to engage the tongue under the kickboard before pressing the long edge down to click into the previous row. A pull bar and tapping block help seat the joint without damaging the profile.
Leave the expansion gap required by your flooring manufacturer — typically 8–12 mm from fixed structures. Because the kickboard conceals this gap, you don't need a separate scotia or beading along the cabinets, which is one of the big advantages of this method.
Dealing with Corners and Appliance Gaps
Corners where two kickboard panels meet, or where a dishwasher or fridge sits, can be tricky. An oscillating multi-tool with a flush-cut blade is ideal here — it can reach into corners that a jamb saw can't. Take your time and make multiple shallow passes rather than one deep cut.
Finishing Up
Once the flooring is fitted, check that the kickboard sits back flush against the new floor surface. In most cases, the undercut is invisible and the result looks factory-fitted. If there's a small gap visible at the base of the kickboard, a thin bead of colour-matched silicone or a flexible sealant can tidy it up — this also helps with moisture management in a kitchen environment, which is relevant to MBIE Building Performance moisture and weathertightness guidance.
When to Call a Professional
This job is DIY-friendly for most homeowners, but consider calling a qualified flooring installer (you can find local professionals on tradedirectory.co.nz) if:
- Your kickboards are glued directly to the subfloor and can't be undercut safely
- You're working around a dishwasher or oven with electrical or plumbing connections — any work on those connections must be done by a licensed electrician (EWRB) or plumber (PGDB)
- The subfloor beneath the kickboard is uneven, damaged, or shows signs of moisture — this needs assessment before new flooring goes down
- You're installing solid timber flooring that requires nailing or specialist adhesive near cabinetry
A professional installer will have the right tools and experience to get a perfect result quickly, and can spot subfloor issues before they become expensive problems.
