Cutting laminate flooring around a curved door architrave is one of the trickier parts of a DIY flooring install, but with a good template and the right saw, you can achieve a tight, professional-looking fit. The key is patience — rushing this step is the most common cause of ugly gaps that are hard to fix later.
Why Curved Architraves Are Tricky
Straight cuts on laminate are straightforward, but curved architraves (the decorative moulding around a door frame) require a scribed or traced profile cut into the plank. Unlike straight cuts you can measure with a tape, curves must be transferred accurately onto the board before cutting. Getting this wrong means a visible gap or a plank that won't sit flat.
Tools You'll Need
- Jigsaw with a fine-tooth laminate blade (cuts on the downstroke to reduce chipping)
- Oscillating multi-tool (great for tight curves and undercutting)
- Pencil and cardboard or thin MDF for making a template
- Tape measure and combination square
- Pull saw or undercut saw (for undercutting the architrave if needed)
- Safety glasses and hearing protection
You'll find jigsaws, multi-tools, and laminate blades at Bunnings or Mitre 10.
Step 1 — Decide: Undercut or Scribe?
Before you start cutting your laminate, decide which approach suits your situation:
- Undercutting the architrave: You use a pull saw or oscillating tool to cut the bottom of the architrave so the laminate slides underneath it. This gives the cleanest finish and hides any minor imperfections in your cut. This is the preferred method for most installers.
- Scribing around the architrave: You leave the architrave in place and cut the laminate to follow its exact profile. This is necessary when the architrave can't be undercut (e.g., it's very thin, tiled, or fixed to a rebate).
Step 2 — Undercutting the Architrave (Recommended)
- Place a scrap piece of laminate (with the underlay beneath it) flat on the floor against the architrave. This sets the correct height for your cut.
- Rest your pull saw or oscillating tool on top of the scrap piece and carefully cut horizontally through the bottom of the architrave. Work slowly — you only need to remove a few millimetres.
- Test-fit a plank to make sure it slides cleanly underneath. There should be no rocking or lifting.
- Once the undercut is done, you may still need to notch the corner of the plank slightly to fit around the architrave's foot — use your jigsaw for this.
Step 3 — Making a Template for Curved Sections
If the curve is complex or you're scribing rather than undercutting, a cardboard template is your best friend:
- Cut a piece of cardboard or thin MDF to roughly the same size as the plank you're fitting.
- Hold it in position and make small relief cuts into the cardboard so it bends and sits flush against the curve of the architrave.
- Trace the profile of the architrave onto the cardboard with a pencil.
- Cut out the template shape and test-fit it. Trim as needed until it fits snugly.
- Trace the template profile onto your laminate plank.
Tips for an Accurate Template
- Work in small increments — it's easier to remove material than add it back.
- Use a compass or scribing tool to transfer a consistent offset if you want a small expansion gap around the architrave.
- Always mark the face side of the laminate clearly so you don't cut the wrong side.
Step 4 — Cutting the Laminate
- Secure the plank face-up on a stable surface (or face-down if your jigsaw cuts on the upstroke — check your blade direction).
- Cut just outside your pencil line first, then trim back carefully to the line.
- For tight curves, an oscillating multi-tool gives you more control than a jigsaw.
- Sand or file any rough edges lightly — laminate edges can be sharp.
- Test-fit before applying any adhesive or locking the click system.
Step 5 — Fitting and Finishing
- Laminate needs an expansion gap (typically 8–10 mm) around fixed objects including door frames — check your manufacturer's instructions, as this varies by product.
- Once the plank is fitted, any small remaining gap between the laminate and the architrave can be filled with a flexible colour-matched sealant or covered with a small bead of matching quad moulding.
- Do not use rigid filler in expansion gaps — it will cause the floor to buckle, especially in NZ's variable humidity conditions.
For product guidance on sealants and adhesives suited to NZ conditions, Sika and Ardex both offer flooring-compatible products.
NZ Building Code Considerations
Laminate flooring installation is generally not restricted work under the NZ Building Code and does not typically require a building consent (it's considered like-for-like maintenance). However, if your project involves changes to subfloor structure, moisture barriers in wet areas, or underfloor heating, check with your local council. MBIE Building Performance has guidance on what work requires consent.
If your home is a rental, note that Tenancy Services Healthy Homes standards may affect flooring requirements, particularly around moisture and insulation.
When to Call a Professional
If you're not confident with power tools, or the architrave profile is highly complex (such as ornate Victorian-style moulding), it's worth calling a qualified flooring installer. A professional will have scribing tools and experience to get a perfect fit quickly, saving you wasted planks and frustration. You can find licensed flooring installers in your area on tradedirectory.co.nz.
