Cutting fence palings to follow a sloped fence line — known as raking or raked paling fencing — is a satisfying DIY job that most handy homeowners can tackle with the right tools and a bit of patience. The key is setting up a consistent angle guide so every paling is cut to the same rake, giving you a clean, professional-looking fence that follows the ground contour.
Understanding the Two Main Approaches
There are two common ways to handle a sloped fence line:
- Stepped fencing – the fence runs in flat, level sections that "step" down the slope. Palings are cut square (90°) at the top and bottom, and no raking is needed.
- Raked (parallel) fencing – the top and bottom rails follow the slope of the ground, and the palings are cut at an angle so their tops and bottoms are parallel to the rails. This is the method covered here.
Raked fencing looks more natural on gradual slopes and is very common in NZ residential properties.
Tools and Materials You'll Need
- Circular saw or drop saw (mitre saw) — a drop saw makes repetitive angled cuts much easier
- Tape measure and pencil
- String line and line level or a laser level
- Bevel gauge (sliding bevel square)
- Safety glasses, hearing protection, and work gloves
- Fence palings (treated pine is the most common NZ choice; check H3 or H4 treatment rating for ground contact areas)
- Clamps and a sturdy workbench or sawhorses
Step 1 — Set Up Your String Lines
Before cutting a single paling, establish your fence line:
- Set your posts at the correct spacing (typically 1.8–2.4 m apart for standard paling fences).
- Run a string line along the top of the posts following the slope. This defines the top rail line.
- Run a second string line along the bottom rail position.
- Both string lines should be parallel to each other and follow the ground slope consistently.
Getting this right first saves a lot of rework later.
Step 2 — Find the Rake Angle
This is the critical step. You need to know the exact angle the palings must be cut at.
- Hold a paling in position against the rails, letting it sit naturally plumb (vertical).
- Place your bevel gauge along the top rail and lock in the angle where the rail meets the face of the paling.
- That locked angle is your rake angle — transfer it to your saw setting.
Alternatively, measure the rise and run of your slope: for every horizontal metre, how many millimetres does the ground drop? Use basic trigonometry or an online slope calculator to convert this to degrees.
Step 3 — Set Up Your Saw
Using a Drop Saw (Mitre Saw)
A drop saw is ideal for repetitive raked cuts. Set the bevel angle (not the mitre angle — you want the cut to angle across the thickness of the paling, not across its width) to match your rake angle. Do a test cut on a scrap piece and check it against the rail before committing to a full run.
Using a Circular Saw
Set the base plate angle to your rake angle. Use a straightedge or fence guide clamped to the paling for a clean, consistent cut. Mark each paling individually using your bevel gauge before cutting.
Step 4 — Mark and Cut Your Palings
| Step | Action |
|---|---|
| 1 | Hold paling in position and mark the top cut line using your bevel gauge |
| 2 | Measure and mark the bottom cut line the same way |
| 3 | Cut both ends at the rake angle |
| 4 | Test-fit the paling against the rails before nailing |
| 5 | Once confirmed, use the first paling as a template for the rest |
Using the first correctly cut paling as a template speeds up the job considerably — just trace around it onto each new paling before cutting.
Step 5 — Fixing the Palings
- Space palings consistently (a small offcut of the right width makes a handy spacer).
- Use galvanised or stainless steel nails or screws — never plain steel, which will rust and stain the timber in NZ's damp conditions.
- Fix each paling to both the top and bottom rails with at least two fixings per rail.
- Keep the bottom of the palings at least 50 mm above ground level to reduce moisture uptake and rot.
Timber Treatment and NZ Conditions
NZ's climate — particularly in wetter regions like the West Coast, Northland, and Wellington — means timber treatment matters. For fence palings, look for H3.1 or H3.2 treated pine for above-ground use. If any timber is in contact with or close to the ground, H4 treatment is required. Check with your timber supplier at Bunnings, Mitre 10, or PlaceMakers for the right product. BRANZ also has excellent guidance on timber durability in NZ conditions.
Do You Need a Building Consent?
Most residential boundary fences in NZ don't require a building consent if they are under 2.5 m in height — but this depends on your local council and the fence location. Schedule 1 of the Building Act lists common exemptions, but always confirm with your local council before starting. Visit MBIE Building Performance for general guidance on consent exemptions.
When to Call a Professional
If your slope is steep or uneven, the fence is long, or you're not confident with power tools and angle calculations, it's well worth getting a qualified fencer involved. A professional will have the experience and jigs to cut consistent raked palings quickly and accurately. You can find licensed local fencers on tradedirectory.co.nz to get quotes for your project.
Safety note: Always wear safety glasses and hearing protection when using power saws. Ensure your workpiece is firmly clamped before cutting, and never freehand a circular saw cut without a guide.
