How to Cut Curves in Tiles Around a Toilet Base

Cutting curves in tiles around a toilet base is one of those jobs that looks tricky but is very manageable once you know the right approach. The key is making an accurate template, choosing the correct cutting tool, and working patiently — rushing is the main cause of cracked or poorly fitting tiles.

Why Curved Cuts Are Needed Around a Toilet

Most toilets have a pedestal base with an irregular, rounded footprint that sits directly on the floor. Rather than leaving an ugly gap or relying entirely on silicone, a well-cut tile that follows the curve of the base gives a professional, hygienic finish. It also reduces the chance of moisture getting underneath — important in wet areas covered by the NZ Building Code clause E3.

Tools You'll Need

Having the right tools makes all the difference:

• Angle grinder with a diamond blade — the most versatile option for freehand curves
• Rotary tool (e.g. Dremel-style) with a tile-cutting or diamond bit — great for tight curves
• Jigsaw with a diamond or carbide tile blade — works well on ceramic and some porcelain tiles
• Tile nippers — for nibbling away small amounts on softer ceramic tiles
• Wet tile saw — can make straight relief cuts to assist curved cuts, but cannot cut curves on its own
• Felt-tip marker or pencil
• Cardboard or craft paper for templating
• Safety glasses, hearing protection, and a dust mask (P2 rated) — tile dust contains silica, which is a serious health hazard

All of these tools are available at Bunnings or Mitre 10.

Step 1 — Make an Accurate Template

This is the most important step. A poor template means a poor fit.

1. Cut a piece of cardboard to the same size as your tile.
2. Hold it up against the toilet base and mark where the curve begins and ends.
3. Carefully trim the cardboard with scissors, checking the fit against the toilet base repeatedly until it sits snugly.
4. Once happy, trace the template outline onto your tile using a felt-tip marker.

Tip: Leave a gap of 3–5 mm between your cut line and the toilet base — this will be filled with sanitary-grade silicone later, which allows for movement and keeps moisture out.

Step 2 — Score Relief Cuts (Optional but Helpful)

If you're using an angle grinder or jigsaw, making a series of straight relief cuts from the tile edge up to (but not past) the curved cut line helps you remove small segments of tile as you work around the curve. This reduces the risk of the tile cracking across the face.

Step 3 — Cut the Curve

Using an Angle Grinder

Work slowly along your marked line, keeping the blade moving. Don't force it — let the diamond blade do the work. Angle grinders can be aggressive, so clamp the tile securely and keep both hands on the tool.

Using a Rotary Tool

Ideal for tighter curves and thinner tiles. Move steadily and let the bit cool periodically to avoid overheating.

Using Tile Nippers

Best for ceramic (not porcelain). Nibble small amounts at a time — about 3–5 mm per bite — working gradually toward your line. Trying to take too much in one go will crack the tile.

Step 4 — Smooth the Edge

Use a diamond hand pad or rubbing stone (available at tile suppliers and hardware stores) to smooth any rough or sharp edges. This also helps the tile sit flush if there are any slight high spots along the cut.

Step 5 — Dry-Fit Before Laying

Always dry-fit the cut tile around the toilet base before applying adhesive. Check the gap is consistent and the tile lies flat. Make any final adjustments now — it's much harder once adhesive is involved.

Step 6 — Lay, Grout, and Silicone

Bed the tile using a suitable floor tile adhesive — products from Ardex or Mapei are widely used by NZ tilers and are available through tile and trade suppliers. Once the adhesive has cured, grout up to (but not into) the gap around the toilet base. Fill that gap with a flexible, mould-resistant silicone in a matching colour. This joint must remain flexible to handle any movement between the toilet and the floor.

Safety Notes

• Silica dust from cutting tiles is a serious respiratory hazard. Always wear a P2 dust mask and work in a ventilated area. Wet-cutting reduces airborne dust significantly. See WorkSafe NZ for guidance on working safely with silica.
• Wear safety glasses and hearing protection when using power tools.
• Secure tiles firmly before cutting — never hold a tile freehand against a running blade.

When to Call a Professional

If you're tiling a bathroom from scratch or retiling around a toilet that needs to be removed and refitted, be aware that disconnecting and reconnecting toilet plumbing is restricted work under the Plumbers, Gasfitters and Drainlayers Act. This must be carried out by a licensed tradesperson registered with the Plumbers, Gasfitters and Drainlayers Board (PGDB).

If you're unsure about the scope of your project, or if the existing tiles are laid over a membrane system in a wet area, it's worth getting a professional tiler to assess the job. A qualified tiler will also ensure the work meets NZ Building Code requirements for wet areas. You can find experienced local tilers on tradedirectory.co.nz.

Sources & Further Reading

• MBIE Building Performance — NZ Building Code
• WorkSafe NZ — Silica dust hazards
• Plumbers, Gasfitters and Drainlayers Board
• Ardex NZ — Tile adhesives and grouts
• Mapei NZ — Tiling products
• Bunnings NZ — Tiling tools and supplies