Cutting an L-shaped notch in a tile — sometimes called a corner cut or notch cut — is one of the most common tasks in tiling. It looks tricky, but with careful measuring and the right tools, you can achieve a clean, professional result that fits snugly around internal corners, door frames, or obstacles like pipes and cabinetry.
Understanding the Cut
An L-shaped tile cut removes a rectangular section from one corner of a tile, leaving an L-shaped piece that wraps around an obstacle or fits into an internal corner. The key is accuracy at the measuring stage — a few millimetres out and the tile won't sit flush or will leave an unsightly gap.
Tools You'll Need
- Tape measure and pencil or tile marker
- Square or combination square
- Angle grinder with a diamond blade, or a wet tile saw (most accurate)
- Tile scorer and snap cutter (for straight cuts only — not suitable for L-shapes alone)
- Tile nippers (for small adjustments)
- Safety glasses, hearing protection, and a dust mask — always wear PPE when cutting tiles
For occasional DIY work, an angle grinder with a diamond blade is the most accessible option. A wet tile saw gives cleaner, more precise cuts and is available to hire from Bunnings or Mitre 10.
Step-by-Step: Measuring and Marking
Accurate marking is everything. Rushing this step is the most common cause of wasted tiles.
- Hold the tile in position — place it over the gap it needs to fill, aligned as it will be when laid.
- Mark the first cut line — using a pencil and square, mark the depth of the notch (how far in from the tile edge the cut needs to go).
- Mark the second cut line — rotate your square and mark the width of the notch at 90° to the first line.
- Double-check your measurements — measure twice, cut once. Account for your grout joint spacing on both sides.
- Shade the waste piece — lightly shade the section to be removed so you don't cut the wrong side of the line.
Allowing for Grout Joints
Don't forget to subtract the width of your grout joint from each measurement. Standard grout joints for floor tiles are typically 3–5 mm; wall tiles can be 1.5–3 mm. Check your tile manufacturer's recommendation, as rectified tiles often use tighter joints.
Making the Two Cuts
An L-shaped cut is essentially two straight cuts that meet at a right angle.
| Method | Best For | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Wet tile saw | Clean, accurate cuts on all tile types | Hire if you don't own one |
| Angle grinder + diamond blade | Accessible DIY option | Use a guide for straight lines; generates dust |
| Tile nippers | Fine-tuning edges only | Not suitable for the main cuts |
- Make the first cut along one marked line, stopping exactly at the corner point. Do not overcut — going past the corner will crack or weaken the tile.
- Make the second cut along the other marked line, again stopping at the corner point.
- The waste piece should now be free. If it's still attached, carefully use tile nippers to nibble away the remaining material at the corner.
- Smooth the cut edges with a rubbing stone or diamond hand pad if the edge will be visible.
Avoiding Overcutting
This is the most important technique tip: stop each cut exactly at the intersection point. On a wet saw, make one pass, then rotate the tile and make the second pass. On an angle grinder, score to the line carefully and finish the corner with nippers.
Fitting and Fixing the Tile
Once cut, do a dry fit before applying any adhesive. The tile should sit in position with even grout joint gaps on all sides. If it's slightly tight, use nippers or a diamond hand pad to trim back carefully.
Use the correct tile adhesive for your substrate and tile type. For wet areas like bathrooms and kitchens, use a waterproof or flexible adhesive that complies with NZ Building Code requirements — particularly clause E3 (internal moisture) for wet areas. Products from Ardex, Mapei, or Sika are widely used by NZ tilers.
Back-butter the tile as well as applying adhesive to the substrate (known as double buttering) for full coverage — especially important in wet areas and for larger format tiles.
Safety Note
Cutting tiles generates fine silica dust, which is a serious respiratory hazard. Always wear a P2-rated dust mask (not just a paper mask), safety glasses, and hearing protection. Work outdoors or in a well-ventilated area where possible. Wet cutting significantly reduces airborne dust. See WorkSafe NZ for guidance on managing silica dust exposure.
When to Call a Professional
While L-shaped cuts are within reach of a careful DIYer, consider hiring a qualified tiler if:
- You're working with large format tiles (600 mm+), natural stone, or glass tiles, which are more prone to cracking
- The area involves waterproofing in a wet area — in NZ, wet area waterproofing must meet Building Code clause E3, and errors can lead to costly water damage
- You need many complex cuts around cabinetry, architraves, or irregular shapes
- You're unsure about the correct adhesive or substrate preparation for your specific situation
A skilled tiler will have the tools and experience to get it right first time. You can find qualified local tilers on tradedirectory.co.nz.
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