How to Cut a Notch in a Tile to Fit Around a Skirting Board

Cutting a notch in a tile to fit around a skirting board is one of the most common tricky cuts in a tiling job, and with the right tools and a bit of patience, it's well within reach of a capable DIYer. The key is accurate measuring, marking, and using the correct cutting method for the size and shape of the notch.

Tools You'll Need

Before you start, gather the following:

• Tape measure and pencil or tile marker
• Angle grinder with a diamond blade (for larger or deeper notches)
• Angle grinder with a diamond cup wheel or tile saw (for straight cuts)
• Tile wet saw (ideal for straight cuts on larger tiles)
• Oscillating multi-tool with a diamond blade (excellent for small, precise notches)
• Tile nippers (for small adjustments and curved edges)
• Safety glasses, hearing protection, and a dust mask — tile cutting produces fine silica dust, which is a serious health hazard. Always wear a P2 respirator and work in a well-ventilated area. Check WorkSafe NZ for guidance on working safely with silica dust.

Step 1 – Measure the Notch Accurately

Accurate measuring is everything. A poorly measured notch will leave unsightly gaps or mean the tile won't sit flat.

1. Hold the tile in its intended position against the wall, overlapping the skirting board.
2. Use a pencil or tile marker to mark the width of the notch — the point where the tile meets each side of the skirting board.
3. Mark the depth of the notch — how far the tile needs to tuck behind or sit against the skirting board profile.
4. Use a square to extend your lines clearly across the tile face.

Double-check your measurements before cutting — the old rule of "measure twice, cut once" is especially important with tiles, as mistakes are costly.

Step 2 – Choose Your Cutting Method

The best method depends on the size of the notch and the tools available to you.

Wet Tile Saw (Best for Straight Notches)

A wet tile saw gives the cleanest, most accurate straight cuts. Make two cuts — one along each line of the notch — stopping at the corner point. You can then snap out the waste piece or use tile nippers to remove it.

Angle Grinder with Diamond Blade

An angle grinder is versatile and works well for both straight and slightly irregular notches. Mark your lines clearly, clamp the tile securely, and cut carefully along each line. Never freehand cut toward yourself. This method produces more dust, so wet-cutting or using a vacuum shroud is strongly recommended.

Oscillating Multi-Tool

For small, tight notches — particularly around detailed skirting profiles — an oscillating multi-tool fitted with a diamond blade gives excellent control. It's slower but very precise.

Tile Nippers

For very small notches or fine-tuning the fit, tile nippers let you nibble away material bit by bit. Work gradually to avoid cracking the tile.

Step 3 – Make the Cut

1. Secure the tile on a stable surface — a tile-cutting workbench or a piece of plywood on sawhorses works well.
2. Score or cut along your marked lines. For a right-angle notch, make both cuts and carefully remove the waste corner piece.
3. If using a wet saw, make the two straight cuts and use nippers to clean up the corner.
4. Smooth any rough edges with a diamond hand pad or rubbing stone to reduce the risk of chipping and to help the tile sit flush.

Step 4 – Test the Fit Before Fixing

Always dry-fit the tile before applying adhesive. Offer it up to the space and check:

• The notch sits cleanly around the skirting board without forcing.
• The tile face is level with adjacent tiles.
• Any gap between the tile edge and the skirting is within the range your grout or silicone will cover.

Make small adjustments with tile nippers or a hand pad as needed.

Step 5 – Bed and Grout the Tile

Once you're happy with the fit, apply your tile adhesive to the substrate using the appropriate notched trowel size for your tile format. Press the tile firmly into place, checking it's level. Once the adhesive has cured, grout the joints. Where the tile meets the skirting board, use a flexible silicone sealant rather than grout — this accommodates movement and prevents cracking. Products from Sika or Ardex are widely available at NZ trade and hardware stores.

Tips for a Professional Finish

• Porcelain tiles are harder and more brittle than ceramic — take extra care and use a quality diamond blade.
• If the skirting board has a complex profile, consider making a card template of the profile first and transferring it to the tile.
• Keep cuts as close to the skirting as possible — any small gap will be hidden once grout or silicone is applied.
• For floor tiling near walls, refer to BRANZ guidance on substrate preparation and movement joints, which are required under NZS standards for tiled floors.

When to Call a Professional

If you're tiling a wet area such as a bathroom or shower, the work must comply with NZ Building Code clause E3 (Internal Moisture). Waterproofing in wet areas is critical and, depending on the scope of work, may require a building consent — always check with your local council. A licensed tiler will ensure the substrate, waterproofing membrane, and tile installation all meet the required standard. You can find qualified local tilers on tradedirectory.co.nz.

Note: Tiling itself is not restricted work under the Building Act, but any associated plumbing or electrical work must be carried out by a licensed professional registered with the Plumbers Gasfitters & Drainlayers Board or the Electrical Workers Registration Board.

Sources & Further Reading

• WorkSafe NZ – Silica Dust Safety
• BRANZ – Tiling and Substrate Guidance
• MBIE Building Performance – NZ Building Code
• Ardex NZ – Tile Adhesives and Grouts
• Sika NZ – Sealants and Waterproofing
• Bunnings NZ – Tiling Tools and Materials