A soldier course is a row of bricks stood upright on their end, side by side like soldiers in a line, used to create a clean, defined edge around garden beds. It's one of the more achievable DIY bricklaying projects for a homeowner — no complex mortar joints, no multi-course walls — just a single neat row that looks great and keeps lawn and garden clearly separated.
What You'll Need
Before you start, gather your materials and tools:
Materials:
- Standard NZ house bricks or pavers (230 × 110 × 76 mm is the common NZ brick size)
- Coarse river sand or bedding sand
- Cement (if using a mortar bed or haunching)
- Optional: ready-mix mortar or dry-mix mortar bags
- Weed matting (optional, to lay beneath the edging)
Tools:
- Spade and flat-bladed shovel
- String line and pegs
- Spirit level
- Rubber mallet
- Brick bolster and club hammer (for cutting bricks)
- Tape measure
- Garden hose or watering can
- Trowel
- Stiff brush
Planning Your Soldier Course
Start by marking out the edge of your garden bed with a string line. For curved beds, use a garden hose laid on the ground to define the shape before you dig — this lets you adjust the curve easily before committing.
Calculate how many bricks you'll need by measuring the total length of the edging and dividing by the brick width (110 mm for a standard NZ brick stood on its end). Add around 10% extra for cuts and breakages.
Tip: Check with your local council before starting if your property is in a heritage zone or if the edging is close to a boundary — in most cases a simple garden edging like this won't require a building consent under Schedule 1 of the Building Act, but it's always worth confirming. See MBIE Building Performance for general guidance on consent exemptions.
Preparing the Ground
- Mark and excavate the trench. Dig a trench along your string line approximately 150–200 mm deep and about 150 mm wide. This gives the bricks enough depth to stand stable without toppling.
- Level the base. Compact the bottom of the trench firmly with your foot or a hand tamper. Remove any large stones or roots.
- Lay a sand bed. Add 50–75 mm of coarse bedding sand to the base of the trench and level it off. This allows you to fine-tune the height of each brick as you go.
Laying the Soldier Course
Setting the first brick
Start at one end or at a corner. Place your first brick upright in the trench, pressing it firmly into the sand bed. Use your spirit level to check it's plumb (vertical) and at the correct height relative to your string line.
Working along the line
Continue placing bricks one by one, butting them tightly together. Tap each brick gently with your rubber mallet to seat it into the sand. Check every few bricks with your spirit level — both for plumb and for consistent height along the run.
Cutting bricks
Where you need a partial brick at a corner or end, score a line around the brick with your bolster and club hammer, then strike firmly to split it. Wear safety glasses and gloves when cutting bricks. For cleaner cuts, a hired angle grinder with a masonry disc works well — follow all WorkSafe NZ guidelines when using power tools, including dust management.
Haunching for stability
Once all bricks are placed and you're happy with the alignment, haunch the back of the soldier course with a mortar mix (roughly 4 parts sand to 1 part cement) or a bagged ready-mix mortar. Apply the haunching to the garden-bed side of the bricks, sloping it away from the brick face so water drains away. This locks the bricks in place without being visible from the lawn side.
Allow the haunching to cure for at least 24–48 hours before backfilling the garden bed.
Finishing Touches
- Backfill the garden side with soil once the mortar has set.
- Brush off any mortar smears from the brick faces with a stiff brush and clean water before the mortar fully hardens.
- For a dry-laid (unmortered) soldier course, compact sand firmly around both sides of the bricks. This suits informal garden styles but may shift over time and will need occasional re-levelling.
Choosing Your Bricks
For outdoor garden edging in NZ's variable climate, choose exposed or semi-exposed grade bricks that are rated for ground contact and frost resistance — particularly important in colder South Island or high-altitude locations. Ask your supplier at Bunnings, Mitre 10, or PlaceMakers to confirm the brick's suitability for in-ground use.
Reclaimed bricks can look fantastic but check they're not too soft or porous — older bricks vary widely in quality.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
| Mistake | Why it matters | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Shallow trench | Bricks topple easily | Dig at least 150 mm deep |
| No haunching | Edging shifts over time | Always haunch the back |
| Uneven sand bed | Wavy, uneven top line | Take time to level the base |
| Wrong brick grade | Bricks crack in frost or wet | Use exposed-grade bricks |
| Skipping the string line | Curved or crooked result | Always set a guide line first |
When to Call a Professional
A simple garden bed soldier course is well within most homeowners' abilities. However, consider hiring a qualified bricklayer if:
- The edging is on a slope and requires stepped courses or retaining
- You're working near underground services (always call Before U Dig on 0800 248 344 before digging)
- The project is large or complex, or you want a guaranteed finish
- You're unsure about drainage implications near your home's foundation
You can find experienced local bricklayers and landscapers on tradedirectory.co.nz.
Sources & Further Reading
- MBIE Building Performance – Building consent exemptions
- WorkSafe NZ – Safe use of power tools and masonry dust
- Bunnings – Bricks, sand and mortar supplies
- Mitre 10 – Garden edging and landscaping materials
- PlaceMakers – Building and landscaping supplies
- BRANZ – Guidance on outdoor construction and weathertightness
Licensed Building Practitioner (LBP)
