Bare-rooted trees and shrubs are one of the best-value ways to establish plants in your NZ garden. Sold without soil around their roots, they're available from nurseries and garden centres during the dormant winter season — typically June through August — and they transplant remarkably well when handled correctly. Here's how to give them the best possible start.
What Are Bare-Rooted Plants?
Bare-rooted plants are deciduous trees and shrubs that have been lifted from the ground while dormant and had the soil shaken from their roots. Common examples available in NZ include fruit trees (apples, pears, plums, feijoas (note: feijoas are technically evergreen and are not true bare-rooted plants in the traditional sense — confirm availability as bare-rooted stock with your nursery)), roses, ornamental trees, and hedging plants like pittosporum and griselinia. Because they're lighter and cheaper to transport than potted stock, they're often significantly more affordable.
Timing: When to Plant
The bare-root season in NZ generally runs from mid-June to late August, though this can vary by region. In colder South Island areas, the season may extend slightly longer. The key rule is simple: plant while the tree is still dormant, before buds begin to swell and break. Once you see active new growth, the window has closed and you risk stressing the plant.
If you can't plant immediately after purchase, keep roots moist by wrapping them in damp hessian or newspaper and storing in a cool, shaded spot. Don't let roots dry out — even a few hours of exposure to wind or sun can cause serious damage.
Choosing a Healthy Plant
Before buying, inspect the roots carefully:
- Look for firm, moist, light-coloured roots — avoid anything slimy, shrivelled, or with a sour smell
- The root system should be well-branched and reasonably symmetrical
- The stem should be straight and free from damage or cankers
- Avoid plants with roots that have been crammed into packaging or are circling tightly
Preparing the Planting Site
Good soil preparation is the single biggest factor in long-term success.
- Choose the right spot — most fruit trees and ornamentals prefer full sun and good drainage. Check the plant's specific requirements.
- Dig a wide, shallow hole — aim for at least twice the width of the root spread, but only as deep as needed to sit the plant at the correct level. A wide hole is far more important than a deep one.
- Break up compacted sides and base with a fork to help roots penetrate.
- Improve the soil — mix in well-rotted compost or aged manure. In heavy clay soils (common in many NZ regions), adding gypsum can help improve structure over time. In very sandy soils, extra organic matter helps retain moisture.
- Avoid adding fertiliser directly into the planting hole, as this can burn young roots. A slow-release fertiliser can be applied to the surface after planting.
Planting Step by Step
1. Soak the Roots
Before planting, soak bare roots in a bucket of water for 30 minutes to 2 hours. This rehydrates the roots and gives the plant a great head start.
2. Build a Central Mound
Create a firm cone of soil in the centre of the hole. This supports the root crown and helps spread roots naturally outward and downward.
3. Set the Planting Depth
Place the plant on the mound and spread roots evenly over it. The graft union (the swollen knob near the base of grafted trees) should sit 5–10 cm above the final soil level. The old soil mark on the stem is your guide for non-grafted plants — match it to the surrounding ground level.
4. Backfill and Firm
Return the soil in stages, gently firming each layer to eliminate air pockets. Avoid compacting heavily — you want good contact without crushing roots.
5. Water In Well
Give the plant a thorough, slow soak immediately after planting. This settles the soil around the roots and is critical for establishment.
6. Mulch
Apply a 5–8 cm layer of mulch (bark, wood chip, or pea straw) in a ring around the plant, keeping it 10 cm clear of the stem to prevent collar rot. Mulch conserves moisture and suppresses weeds — especially important through NZ's dry summers.
Staking
Many bare-rooted trees benefit from a low stake placed at a slight angle into undisturbed soil, away from the root zone. Attach with a flexible tree tie, leaving some movement — this encourages the trunk to develop strength. Check ties regularly and loosen as the tree grows.
Aftercare
- Water regularly through the first summer, especially during dry spells. Newly planted trees have limited root systems and can't access deep moisture yet.
- Prune lightly at planting time to balance the canopy with the reduced root system — remove any damaged or crossing branches.
- Feed in spring with a balanced fertiliser once new growth is underway.
- Watch for signs of stress (wilting, leaf scorch) and act quickly.
Regional Considerations
NZ's varied climate means conditions differ significantly. In the Northland and Auckland regions, winters are mild and the bare-root window is shorter. In Canterbury and Otago, colder winters mean a longer dormant period. Always check with your local nursery for the best timing in your area. Soil types also vary enormously — from the volcanic soils of Waikato to the heavy clays of Wellington — so tailor your soil preparation accordingly.
When to Call a Professional
Most bare-rooted planting is well within a capable homeowner's ability. However, consider engaging a qualified landscaper if:
- You're planting large specimen trees that require machinery or specialist equipment
- Your site has significant drainage issues that need remediation before planting
- You're establishing a large orchard or shelter belt and want a professional layout and species selection
- You're unsure about soil health, pH, or nutrient deficiencies — a landscaper or horticulturalist can arrange soil testing
You can find experienced, local landscapers on tradedirectory.co.nz who can help with everything from site assessment to full garden establishment.
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