For most residential timber paling fences in New Zealand, 1.8 metres between posts is the standard spacing — and it's a good starting point for the majority of DIY projects. However, the right spacing for your fence depends on several factors including fence height, rail size, timber species, wind exposure, and ground conditions. Getting it right from the start means your fence will stay straight, strong, and looking good for years to come.
Why Post Spacing Matters
Posts are the backbone of any paling fence. Space them too far apart and your rails will sag or flex, causing palings to loosen and the whole fence to look wavy over time. Space them too close and you'll use more materials and labour than necessary. The goal is to find the sweet spot that gives you a rigid, cost-effective structure.
Standard Post Spacing in NZ
The most widely used spacings for timber paling fences in New Zealand are:
| Fence Height | Recommended Post Spacing | Typical Rail Size |
|---|---|---|
| Up to 1.2 m | 1.8–2.4 m | 75 × 50 mm |
| 1.2 m – 1.8 m | 1.8 m | 75 × 50 mm |
| 1.8 m – 2.1 m | 1.5–1.8 m | 100 × 50 mm |
| Over 2.1 m | 1.2–1.5 m | 100 × 50 mm |
These are general guides based on common trade practice. Always check with your timber supplier or a qualified fencer if you're unsure about your specific situation.
Key Factors That Affect Your Spacing
1. Fence Height
Taller fences catch more wind and put greater lateral load on posts and rails. As height increases, you'll generally need to reduce post spacing and increase post and rail dimensions to maintain rigidity.
2. Wind Exposure
New Zealand's wind zones vary significantly — from low-exposure suburban sections to high-wind coastal and hilltop sites. In high or very high wind zones (common in Wellington, coastal Otago, and exposed rural areas), you may need to drop spacing to 1.2–1.5 m and use heavier posts. BRANZ provides guidance on wind zones that can help inform your design.
3. Post Size and Timber Species
100 × 100 mm posts are standard for fences up to 1.8 m. For taller or more exposed fences, 125 × 125 mm posts are worth considering. Treated pine (H4 or H5 rated for in-ground use) is the NZ standard for fence posts. Always use H4 or H5 treated timber for any part of the post going into the ground — this is critical for durability in NZ's damp soils.
4. Rail Span and Deflection
The longer the span between posts, the more a rail will deflect (bend) under load. A 75 × 50 mm rail can comfortably span 1.8 m; push it to 2.4 m and you'll likely see sagging over time, especially with the weight of wet palings. Using two rails for fences up to 1.5 m and three rails for fences over 1.5 m is standard practice.
5. Soil and Ground Conditions
Soft, sandy, or waterlogged soils reduce the holding power of your posts. In these conditions, you may need to reduce post spacing, increase post depth, or use concrete footings. A general rule is to set posts to a depth of one-third of the total post length — so a 2.4 m post for a 1.8 m fence would be set 600–800 mm into the ground, ideally in concrete.
6. Gate Openings and Corners
Always position posts at corners, changes of direction, and either side of gates regardless of your standard spacing. Gate posts typically need to be heavier (at least 100 × 100 mm, often 125 × 125 mm) to handle the extra load and leverage.
Do You Need a Building Consent?
In New Zealand, many residential fences are exempt from building consent under Schedule 1 of the Building Act 2004 — but this depends on height and location. Generally, fences up to 2.0 m on a standard residential site don't require consent, but there are exceptions (e.g., near boundaries, swimming pools, or in special character areas). Always check with your local council before starting, as rules vary. You can find general guidance at MBIE Building Performance.
Note that pool fencing has strict requirements under NZS 8500 and the Building Code clause F9 — post spacing and gate specifications must comply, and a building consent is typically required.
Laying Out Your Posts
Once you've settled on your spacing, here's a practical approach:
- Measure the total fence run and divide by your chosen spacing to get the number of bays.
- Adjust spacing evenly across the run so you don't end up with one very short or very long bay at the end.
- Use a string line to keep posts aligned and a spirit level to ensure they're plumb before the concrete sets.
- Allow concrete to cure for at least 24–48 hours before attaching rails and palings.
Choosing Your Materials
For palings and rails, treated pine is the most common and cost-effective choice in NZ. You'll find a good range at Bunnings, Mitre 10, and PlaceMakers. Always confirm the H-rating on treated timber — H4 for in-ground use, H3.2 for above-ground exterior exposure.
When to Call a Professional
While a straightforward paling fence is a manageable DIY project for a competent homeowner, there are times when it's worth bringing in a qualified fencer:
- Long fence runs where layout errors compound quickly
- Sloped or uneven ground requiring stepped or raked fence design
- High wind zones or exposed sites where structural decisions matter more
- Pool fencing — compliance is non-negotiable and errors can be costly
- Retaining fence combinations — if your fence also retains soil, it may require engineering input and a building consent
A skilled fencer will get the job done faster, with the right materials, and to a standard that lasts. You can find qualified local fencers on tradedirectory.co.nz.
