Laying a brick garden edging border is one of the most achievable DIY bricklaying projects for a homeowner. With basic tools, a bit of patience, and a free weekend, you can create a tidy, durable border that defines garden beds, keeps lawn grass from creeping in, and adds real kerb appeal to your property.
What You'll Need
Gather your tools and materials before you start. Having everything on hand saves trips to the hardware store mid-project.
Tools:
- Spade and flat-bladed edging spade
- Rubber mallet
- Spirit level (at least 600 mm long)
- String line and pegs
- Tape measure
- Brick bolster chisel and club hammer (for cutting bricks)
- Safety glasses and gloves
- Wheelbarrow and mixing tub or bucket
Materials:
- Standard clay or concrete garden bricks (also called pavers or edging bricks)
- Coarse river sand or bedding sand
- Cement (if you want a mortared edge)
- Optional: landscape fabric to suppress weeds beneath the border
You can find bricks, sand, and cement at Bunnings or Mitre 10. For larger quantities, PlaceMakers is worth checking. As a rough guide, standard bricks are typically around 230 mm × 110 mm × 76 mm — measure your space and calculate how many you need, adding about 10% for cuts and breakages.
Planning Your Border
Before you dig, mark out the line of your edging with a string line and pegs, or use a garden hose to lay out curves. Decide on your laying style — the most common options for garden edging are:
| Style | Description | Difficulty |
|---|---|---|
| Flat (soldier course) | Bricks laid flat end-to-end | Easy |
| On-edge (rowlock) | Bricks stood on their long edge | Easy–Moderate |
| Diagonal (sawtooth) | Bricks angled at 45° into the ground | Moderate |
For a first project, flat or on-edge laying is the most forgiving.
Step-by-Step: Laying the Edging
1. Excavate the Trench
Dig a trench along your marked line. The depth depends on your laying style — as a guide, you want the finished top of the brick to sit roughly 20–30 mm above the lawn or garden surface so it acts as a mowing edge. Allow for a 50–75 mm sand bed beneath the brick plus the brick height itself.
Keep the trench sides reasonably straight and compact the base with your foot or a hand tamper.
2. Lay the Sand Bed
Pour in coarse bedding sand to a depth of about 50–75 mm. Screed it level using a piece of timber, then lightly compact it. A well-prepared sand bed is the key to a stable, even edging — don't rush this step.
3. Set Your String Line
Run a taut string line along the top edge of where your bricks will sit. This is your height and alignment guide. Check it with a spirit level over longer runs.
4. Lay the Bricks
Place each brick firmly onto the sand bed, tapping it down with your rubber mallet until it sits flush with the string line. Check level frequently — both along the run and across the brick. Butt bricks tightly together or leave a small consistent gap if you plan to fill with mortar or sand.
For curves, you may need to cut bricks. Score a line with the bolster chisel and club hammer, then strike firmly. Always wear safety glasses when cutting bricks — flying chips are a real hazard.
5. Secure the Edging
Sand-set (no mortar): Brush dry sand into the joints and compact lightly. This is easier to adjust later but less permanent.
Mortared: Mix a stiff mortar (approximately 4 parts sand to 1 part cement) and bed each brick into it, or point the joints after laying. Mortared edging is more durable, especially in areas with heavy foot traffic or where the lawn mower runs close. Allow mortar to cure for at least 24–48 hours before disturbing.
6. Backfill and Finish
Backfill soil or garden mulch against the inside face of the edging. On the lawn side, tamp the soil back firmly so the bricks are well supported. Step back and check the line — adjust any high or low bricks now while the mortar is still green or the sand is still loose.
Tips for a Professional-Looking Result
- Work in dry weather. Mortar needs to be protected from rain for at least 24 hours after laying. NZ's variable climate — especially in Auckland, Wellington, and the West Coast — means checking the forecast before you start.
- Pre-wet clay bricks lightly before mortaring so they don't draw moisture out of the mix too quickly.
- Keep joints consistent using a piece of timber offcut as a spacer.
- Seal clay bricks if you want to reduce moss and lichen growth — a penetrating masonry sealer from Resene or similar can help in damp, shaded gardens.
Does This Need a Building Consent?
Garden edging at ground level is generally exempt from building consent under Schedule 1 of the Building Act 2004, as it is not a structure that affects the building or drainage. However, rules can vary — always confirm with your local council if you are unsure, particularly if the edging is near a boundary, retaining anything, or involves significant earthworks. MBIE Building Performance has useful guidance on what requires consent.
When to Call a Professional
This project is well within DIY reach for most homeowners. However, consider calling a qualified bricklayer if:
- Your border is long, complex, or involves significant curves and cutting
- You want a mortared finish and have no prior experience with mortar mixing
- The ground is uneven or has drainage issues that need addressing first
- You want the job done quickly and to a guaranteed standard
A skilled bricklayer will have the tools and eye to produce a crisp, level result in a fraction of the time. You can find qualified local bricklayers on tradedirectory.co.nz.
Licensed Building Practitioner (LBP)
