Breaking up an old concrete path is a satisfying weekend project that most capable DIYers can tackle themselves. With the right equipment, a bit of muscle, and a clear plan for getting rid of the rubble, you can have that old path gone in a day or two. Here's how to do it safely and efficiently.
Safety First
Concrete work is physically demanding and carries real risks. Before you swing a single sledgehammer, sort out your personal protective equipment (PPE):
- Safety glasses or goggles – concrete chips fly fast and far
- Hearing protection – especially if using a jackhammer or electric breaker
- Heavy-duty work gloves
- Steel-capped boots
- Dust mask (P2 rated minimum) – older paths (pre-1980s) may contain asbestos fibres in associated materials; see the note below
For guidance on safe work practices, refer to WorkSafe NZ.
A Word on Asbestos
If your path has a fibrous cement edging, decorative topping, or any sheeting nearby that was installed before the mid-1980s, stop and get it tested before you start. Disturbing asbestos-containing material is a serious health hazard and is regulated work in New Zealand. Contact a licensed asbestos assessor if you're unsure.
Do You Need a Building Consent?
Removing a concrete path is generally exempt from building consent under Schedule 1 of the Building Act, but rules can vary depending on your property and what's underneath (for example, paths near retaining walls or drainage). Always confirm with your local council before starting. You can find general guidance at MBIE Building Performance.
Tools and Equipment You'll Need
Choosing the right tool makes a huge difference:
| Tool | Best for |
|---|---|
| Sledgehammer (4–6 kg) | Thin paths (75 mm or less), small areas |
| Electric demolition hammer / breaker | Medium to large areas, thicker slabs |
| Petrol jackhammer | Very thick or reinforced concrete |
| Bolt cutters or angle grinder | Cutting reinforcing steel (rebar) |
| Pry bar / pinch bar | Lifting and shifting broken slabs |
| Wheelbarrow | Moving rubble to a skip or pile |
Electric demolition hammers and jackhammers can be hired from most tool hire shops around New Zealand — check Bunnings or Mitre 10 for hire options, or search your local hire centre.
Step-by-Step: Breaking Up the Concrete
1. Check What's Underneath
Before breaking ground, locate any underground services — water pipes, drainage, electrical conduits, or gas lines. Contact Dial Before You Dig (check the Dial Before You Dig website for current contact details) or check your local council records. Hitting a buried service is dangerous and expensive.
2. Score the Edges
Use a cold chisel and hammer (or an angle grinder with a diamond blade) to score lines across the path every 300–600 mm. This gives you natural break points and makes the job much easier.
3. Start Breaking
Work from one end of the path. If using a sledgehammer, aim for the scored lines and edges rather than the middle of a large flat section. With a breaker or jackhammer, work the chisel bit along your scored lines at a slight angle. Concrete breaks more easily when it has somewhere to go, so always try to break toward a free edge.
4. Deal with Reinforcing Steel
Many paths — especially those laid in the last 30–40 years — contain reinforcing mesh or rebar. Once the concrete is broken, you'll need bolt cutters or an angle grinder to cut the steel free. Stack steel separately from the concrete rubble for recycling.
5. Break Pieces Down to a Manageable Size
Aim for pieces no larger than about 300 mm across and light enough to lift safely. Concrete weighs roughly 2,400 kg per cubic metre — even a small slab is very heavy. Work with a mate where possible and use a pry bar to flip and shift larger pieces.
Removing and Disposing of the Rubble
This is often the hardest part of the job. Your options include:
- Hire a skip bin – the most convenient option for large amounts; many NZ skip companies will accept clean concrete
- Council transfer station – most accept concrete rubble for a fee; check your local council's website for rates and accepted materials
- Recycle it – crushed concrete (also called recycled aggregate) can be reused as fill, drainage material, or base course under a new path. Some recycling yards will take it for free or a small charge
- Advertise it free – sites like Facebook Marketplace or Neighbourly often have people looking for fill material
Avoid dumping concrete in green waste or general rubbish — it won't be accepted and illegal dumping carries fines.
Finishing Up
Once the concrete is gone, you'll likely have a rough, uneven sub-base. If you're laying a new path, compact the base material properly and consider whether you need to address drainage. New Zealand's Building Code clause E1 covers surface water drainage — worth keeping in mind if your path directed water away from the house.
For advice on drainage and sub-base preparation, BRANZ has solid technical resources for homeowners and builders.
When to Call a Professional
Consider hiring a qualified demolition contractor if:
- The path is very large, very thick, or heavily reinforced
- You suspect asbestos-containing materials are present
- Underground services are close by and the risk of damage is high
- The path is adjacent to a building foundation, retaining wall, or other structure
- You simply don't have the time, tools, or physical capacity for the job
A professional demolition contractor will have the right machinery, insurance, and experience to get the job done safely and efficiently. You can find qualified local demolition contractors on tradedirectory.co.nz.
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