Attaching fence palings evenly on your own is absolutely doable — it just takes a bit of preparation and the right technique. With a simple spacing jig, a taut string line, and the correct fixings, you can achieve a neat, professional-looking fence without needing a second pair of hands.
What You'll Need
Before you start, gather your tools and materials:
- Fence palings (treated pine is the most common choice in NZ — check they are H3.2 treated for ground-contact zones or H3.1 for above-ground use)
- Galvanised or stainless steel nails (75 mm jolt-head) or exterior-grade screws (65–75 mm)
- Hammer or drill/driver
- String line and line blocks
- Spirit level
- Tape measure and pencil
- A spacing jig (you'll make this yourself — see below)
- Clamps (optional but handy)
- Safety glasses and hearing protection
Set Up a String Line First
The single most important step when working solo is establishing a reference string line. Stretch a string line tightly along the top of your fence rails from post to post. This gives you a consistent height guide for every paling without needing someone to hold each one.
- Use a spirit level on your first paling to confirm it's plumb (vertical), then use the string line to match every subsequent paling to the same height.
- If your ground slopes, decide whether you want a stepped fence (palings all the same height, fence line steps down at each bay) or a raked fence (palings follow the slope). Either way, your string line should reflect that choice before you fix a single paling.
Make a Spacing Jig — Your Best Friend
A spacing jig is simply a scrap piece of timber cut to the exact gap width you want between palings. Standard NZ paling fences often use a gap equal to roughly half the paling width, but this is a design choice — check your local council rules if you're on a boundary, as some districts have requirements around fence opacity.
How to make and use it:
- Cut a piece of scrap timber to your desired gap width (e.g., 25 mm for a half-gap on 100 mm palings).
- Hang or rest the jig on the top rail between the last fixed paling and the new one.
- Push the new paling snug against the jig — it holds the gap perfectly while you nail or screw.
- Fix the paling, slide the jig along, and repeat.
This method means you never need someone holding the paling in place. The jig does that job for you.
Fixing Palings Correctly
Nailing vs Screwing
| Method | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|
| Galvanised nails | Fast, traditional, cost-effective | Can split dry timber; harder to remove |
| Exterior screws | Strong, removable, less splitting | Slower; use a countersink bit for a tidy finish |
Always use hot-dipped galvanised or stainless steel fixings outdoors — plain steel will rust and stain your timber within a season or two in NZ's coastal or wet climates.
How Many Fixings Per Paling?
Fix each paling to every rail it crosses — typically two rails for a standard 1.2–1.5 m fence, three rails for a 1.8 m fence. Use two fixings per rail (one near each edge of the paling) to prevent twisting and warping over time.
Pre-Drilling
If you're working with dry or narrow palings, pre-drill your fixing holes slightly smaller than your nail or screw diameter. This prevents splitting, especially near the ends of palings.
Keeping Palings Plumb
Check every third or fourth paling with your spirit level. Timber can vary slightly in width, and small errors accumulate quickly. If you notice drift, adjust the gap slightly over the next few palings to correct it — a millimetre here and there is invisible to the eye.
Dealing with the Last Paling in a Bay
The final paling before a post rarely lands at a perfect spacing. Measure the remaining gap and either:
- Rip the last paling to a narrower width on a table saw or with a circular saw and straight edge, or
- Adjust your spacing slightly across the last 4–5 palings to absorb the difference gradually.
Option two is usually easier for a DIYer and looks fine once the fence is painted or stained.
Finishing and Protecting Your Fence
Once all palings are fixed, cap the top of the fence if your design calls for it, then apply a quality exterior timber stain or paint to protect the wood from NZ's UV and moisture. Brands like Resene, Dulux, and Wattyl all offer exterior timber coatings suited to NZ conditions. Follow the manufacturer's preparation and application instructions for best results.
Do You Need a Building Consent?
In most cases, residential boundary fences up to 2 m high are exempt from building consent under Schedule 1 of the Building Act — but this depends on your specific site, zone, and local council rules. Always check with your local council before starting, especially for fences on or near boundaries, retaining walls, or in special character zones. The MBIE Building Performance website has useful guidance on Schedule 1 exemptions.
When to Call a Professional
Fencing is generally DIY-friendly, but consider hiring a qualified fencer if:
- Your site has significant slope or unstable ground requiring concrete footings or engineering input
- You're building a retaining fence over 1.5 m that may need consent
- You want a large job done quickly and to a guaranteed standard
- You're unsure about boundary locations (check with a licensed surveyor)
You can find experienced local fencing contractors on tradedirectory.co.nz.
