Adding a brick soldier course — a row of bricks stood upright on their ends — is a classic way to give a garden wall, retaining wall, or boundary wall a neat, finished look. With careful preparation and the right mortar mix, a competent DIYer can tackle this project, though it does require patience and a good eye for level. If the wall is structural or the work is complex, it's worth calling in a qualified bricklayer.
What Is a Soldier Course?
A soldier course is a single row of bricks laid vertically — standing on their shortest edge — with the long face visible. Unlike a standard stretcher course (bricks laid flat and horizontal), soldiers create a crisp, upright border that frames the top of a wall. They're commonly used on garden walls, letterbox pillars, and low retaining walls throughout New Zealand.
Planning and Consents
Before you start, check whether your project needs a building consent. In New Zealand, freestanding walls over a certain height may require consent — the threshold depends on your specific situation and local council rules. Schedule 1 of the Building Act lists exemptions for low, non-structural garden walls, but the rules depend on your specific situation and local council. Always confirm with your local council before adding height to an existing wall — even a soldier course can push a wall over the consent threshold.
Also check your district plan for boundary setback rules, especially if the wall is on or near a property boundary.
Tools and Materials You'll Need
- Matching bricks (soldier courses typically use the same brick as the wall below)
- Mortar — a standard mix of 1 part cement : 1 part lime : 6 parts sand, or a pre-mixed bricklaying mortar
- Trowel, jointing tool, and a brick bolster and hammer
- Spirit level and string line
- Tape measure and pencil
- Bucket and mixing board (or a small mixer)
- Safety glasses and gloves
- Angle grinder with a diamond blade (if cutting bricks to fit)
Tip on bricks: Try to source bricks that match your existing wall in colour, texture, and size. Take a sample brick to your supplier at Bunnings or Mitre 10, or ask a specialist brick supplier. NZ standard bricks are typically 230 mm × 110 mm × 76 mm.
Step 1 — Prepare the Existing Wall Top
The existing wall top must be clean, level, and structurally sound before you lay anything on it.
- Remove any loose mortar, dirt, moss, or old capping using a cold chisel and wire brush.
- Check the wall top is level along its full length with a long spirit level. If it's uneven, you may need to bed a thin mortar screed to create a flat base.
- Dampen the wall top with water before applying mortar — this stops the existing masonry from drawing moisture out of the fresh mix too quickly, which weakens the bond.
Step 2 — Dry-Lay First
Before mixing any mortar, dry-lay your bricks along the wall top to work out spacing and check how many you need. Soldier bricks are laid with their 76 mm face down onto the wall, standing 230 mm tall. The mortar joint between each brick is typically 10 mm.
If the wall length doesn't divide evenly, plan your cuts now. Use an angle grinder with a diamond blade, or hire a brick saw for cleaner cuts. Always wear safety glasses and a dust mask when cutting masonry.
Step 3 — Set Up a String Line
A string line is essential for keeping your soldier course straight and at a consistent height. Fix the line at the finished height of the soldier course at each end of the wall, pulled taut. This is your guide as you lay each brick.
Step 4 — Mix and Apply Mortar
Mix your mortar to a firm, workable consistency — it should hold its shape when squeezed but not be crumbly or sloppy. A mix that's too wet will cause the upright bricks to slide or lean.
- Apply a bed of mortar approximately 10–15 mm thick along the wall top, enough for two or three bricks at a time.
- Furrow the mortar bed lightly with the tip of your trowel to improve adhesion.
- Butter the short end (the header face) of each brick before placing it, to create the vertical joint between bricks.
Step 5 — Lay the Soldier Bricks
- Press each brick firmly into the mortar bed, aligning the top edge with your string line.
- Check plumb (vertical) on the face of each brick with your spirit level — soldier bricks must stand perfectly upright, not lean forward or back.
- Check level along the top of each brick as you go.
- Remove excess mortar squeezed from the joints with your trowel.
- Work in short sections so the mortar doesn't dry out before you've set the bricks.
Step 6 — Joint and Finish
Once the mortar has begun to firm up (usually 30–60 minutes depending on conditions), use a jointing tool or the edge of your trowel to finish the joints. A slightly recessed or weatherstruck joint sheds water well in NZ's variable climate — important for preventing moisture ingress and frost damage in colder regions.
Keep the finished course damp for at least 24 hours by lightly misting with water, especially in hot or windy weather. This curing process strengthens the mortar.
Mortar Colour Matching
If the existing wall has coloured mortar joints, you'll need to match the mortar colour. Sika and other suppliers offer mortar pigments. Test a small batch and let it dry fully before committing — mortar colour changes significantly as it cures.
When to Call a Professional
Consider hiring a qualified bricklayer if:
- The wall is structural (e.g., a retaining wall holding back soil or supporting a structure)
- The wall is over 1.0 m high and you're adding further height
- The existing wall is in poor condition, cracked, or leaning
- You need a building consent — licensed building practitioners (LBPs) may be required to carry out or supervise restricted building work
- You're unsure about matching mortar, brick type, or structural adequacy
A skilled local bricklayer will get the job done faster, with a cleaner finish, and can advise on consent requirements. You can find qualified bricklayers in your area on tradedirectory.co.nz.
Safety Note
Always wear safety glasses, gloves, and a dust mask when cutting or grinding bricks. Wet mortar is alkaline and can cause skin burns with prolonged contact. Work from a stable platform if the wall is above waist height — never overreach from a ladder.
For guidance on safe working at height, refer to WorkSafe NZ.
Licensed Building Practitioner (LBP)
