Achieving even grout lines on a herringbone pattern is absolutely doable as a DIY project, but it requires more planning than a standard straight lay. The angled, interlocking nature of herringbone means small errors compound quickly — so preparation and the right tools are everything. Follow the steps below and you'll end up with crisp, consistent lines that do the pattern justice.
Why Herringbone Is Trickier Than a Straight Lay
In a standard grid or brick-bond layout, spacers sit between parallel edges and any slight drift is easy to correct. In a herringbone pattern, each tile is set at 45 degrees (or sometimes 90 degrees in a horizontal herringbone) to its neighbour, so the grout lines run in multiple directions simultaneously. A tile that's even slightly out of square — common with handmade or natural stone tiles — will throw off the lines across an entire row. Tile consistency is therefore your first checkpoint before you even mix adhesive.
Step 1 — Choose Consistent Tiles
Before purchasing, check that your tiles are rectified (machine-cut to precise dimensions) if you want very fine grout lines (2–3 mm). Non-rectified or handmade tiles have natural variation and need wider grout lines (4–6 mm or more) to absorb size differences. Mixing rectified and non-rectified tiles in the same job is a recipe for uneven lines.
Step 2 — Plan Your Layout on Paper First
Draw your herringbone layout to scale or use a free tile layout app. Identify your starting point — typically the centre of the wall or floor — and work outward. A centre-out approach means any cut tiles at the edges are symmetrical, which looks far more professional. Snap chalk lines on your substrate at your chosen angle to act as guides throughout the job.
Step 3 — Prepare the Substrate Properly
Even grout lines start with a flat, solid substrate. For floors, check for flex — any movement will crack grout over time. For walls, make sure your substrate is plumb and flat to within 3 mm over a 1.8 m straightedge, as recommended by BRANZ. If you're tiling over GIB plasterboard in a wet area, confirm it's the correct moisture-resistant grade and properly waterproofed to meet NZ Building Code clause E3 (internal moisture).
Step 4 — Use the Right Spacers
This is the single biggest factor in consistent grout lines on a herringbone pattern. Standard cross-shaped spacers don't work well at angled joints — instead, use T-spacers or wedge spacers, which sit cleanly in the acute angles of a herringbone joint. Choose a spacer size that matches your desired grout line width:
| Grout Line Width | Best For |
|---|---|
| 2–3 mm | Rectified porcelain or ceramic tiles |
| 4–5 mm | Standard ceramic, slight variation in size |
| 6 mm+ | Natural stone, handmade, or terracotta tiles |
Press spacers in firmly and check they're not lifting the tile edge. Remove them before the adhesive fully cures — check your adhesive's technical data sheet for the correct removal window, as this varies by product and conditions.
Step 5 — Bed Each Tile Carefully
Use a notched trowel appropriate to your tile size (your adhesive manufacturer's data sheet will specify the notch size). Apply adhesive to both the substrate and the back of the tile (back-buttering) for full coverage — aim for at least 80% contact on floors and 95% in wet areas, per good trade practice. Press each tile with a slight twisting motion, then check it's level with its neighbours using a rubber mallet and a small spirit level or tile levelling clips.
Tile levelling clip systems (available at Bunnings or Mitre 10) are worth considering for floor herringbone — they hold tiles at a consistent height while the adhesive sets, which is especially helpful when tiles vary slightly in thickness.
Step 6 — Work in Small Sections
Don't spread more adhesive than you can tile in 10–15 minutes. In NZ's variable climate — particularly in humid regions like Auckland or coastal areas — adhesive can skin over faster than you expect in warm weather, or stay workable longer in cooler southern conditions. Always check the open time on your adhesive's technical data sheet. Products from Ardex and Mapei are widely used by NZ tilers and have good local technical support.
Step 7 — Grout with Care
Once adhesive has cured fully (check the manufacturer's minimum cure time — typically 24 hours, longer in cold or damp conditions), remove all spacers and any adhesive squeeze-out from the joints with a grout rake or small screwdriver. Clean joints are essential — any adhesive left in the joint will cause the grout to sit proud or crack.
Mix grout to a smooth, lump-free consistency and work it diagonally across the tile faces with a rubber float, pressing firmly into every joint. Work in 1–2 m² sections, then clean excess grout off the tile surface with a damp sponge before it hazes. Rinse the sponge frequently. For a herringbone pattern, wipe diagonally across the joints rather than along them to avoid dragging grout out.
For wet areas (showers, splashbacks), use a waterproof or epoxy grout and ensure the grout is compatible with your adhesive system — check with your supplier or the manufacturer's technical line.
Step 8 — Seal the Grout
Once grout has cured (typically 48–72 hours minimum), apply a quality grout sealer, especially for light-coloured grout or natural stone tiles. This protects against staining and makes cleaning far easier.
When to Call a Professional
If your substrate has significant movement, moisture issues, or you're tiling a large area in a wet zone (shower, bathroom floor), it's worth engaging a qualified tiler. Waterproofing in wet areas must comply with NZ Building Code clause E3, and getting it wrong can cause serious structural damage. You can find experienced local tilers on tradedirectory.co.nz. For any work involving plumbing penetrations through tiled surfaces, remember that plumbing is restricted work under the Plumbers, Gasfitters and Drainlayers Act — always use a licensed tradesperson registered with the PGDB.
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