Yes, in most cases you can weld a broken steel hay feeder ring back together yourself — provided you have basic welding skills, the right equipment, and take proper safety precautions. It's a common farm repair across New Zealand and a good candidate for a DIY fix. That said, if the feeder is heavily used by large livestock or the break is in a structurally critical area, having a qualified welder check or carry out the repair is worth considering.
Assess the Break First
Before striking an arc, take a good look at the damage. Most round hay feeders (also called ring feeders or cattle rings) are made from mild steel — either round bar, flat bar, or square tube welded into a circular frame. Mild steel is very weldable and forgiving for the home welder.
Ask yourself:
- Is it a clean break, or is the metal cracked, corroded, or deformed?
- How many breaks are there?
- Is the broken section load-bearing (e.g., a bottom rail that animals stand against)?
- Is the steel heavily rusted or pitted around the break?
If the metal is badly corroded or the break is in multiple places, a full section replacement may be more practical than a weld repair.
What Equipment You'll Need
For this type of repair, a MIG welder (GMAW) is the most practical choice for most DIYers — it's easier to control on thicker farm steel than a stick welder, and gives a cleaner result. A stick welder (SMAW) will also do the job well, especially outdoors where wind can affect MIG shielding gas.
Basic equipment list:
- MIG or stick welder rated for the steel thickness (typically 6–10 mm round or flat bar)
- Appropriate wire/electrodes: ER70S-6 wire for MIG, or E6013/E7018 rods for stick
- Angle grinder with grinding and flap discs
- Wire brush and rust converter if needed
- Welding clamps or magnets to hold the break in alignment
- Measuring tape or string line to check the ring stays round
You can hire welders and grinders from most hire centres if you don't own them. Bunnings and Mitre 10 stock consumables like grinding discs, wire brushes, and welding wire.
Safety First
Welding carries serious risks including UV arc flash (which can permanently damage your eyes), burns, electric shock, and fume inhalation. Always:
- Wear a auto-darkening welding helmet or proper fixed-shade welding mask (minimum shade 10 for MIG/stick)
- Use leather welding gloves, long sleeves, and leather boots
- Work in a well-ventilated area — outdoors is ideal for farm repairs
- Keep a fire extinguisher or water nearby
- Never weld near fuel, hay, or other flammables
- Be aware that galvanised steel releases toxic zinc fumes when welded — if any part of the feeder is galvanised, grind the coating back at least 50 mm either side of the weld zone before starting, and wear a P2 respirator
For more on welding safety, WorkSafe NZ has guidance on hazardous work and fume exposure.
Step-by-Step Repair Process
1. Clean the Joint
Use an angle grinder or wire brush to remove rust, paint, and scale from both sides of the break. Clean metal is essential for a strong weld. If there's surface rust, a rust converter can help stabilise it before grinding.
2. Align and Clamp
Use welding clamps or magnets to hold the broken ends together in the correct position. Check that the ring still looks round — lay it on a flat surface or use a string line across the diameter to confirm alignment before you weld.
3. Tack Weld First
Place small tack welds at two or three points around the joint to hold alignment. Check the shape again before committing to full welds.
4. Weld the Joint
Run a full weld bead around the joint. For round bar, work in short passes and allow cooling between runs to avoid distortion. Aim for good fusion into both pieces — a weld that sits on top without penetrating is weak.
5. Grind and Inspect
Once cool, grind the weld smooth with a flap disc. Inspect for cracks, porosity (small holes), or undercut. A sound weld should look uniform and be free of obvious defects.
6. Protect the Repair
Apply a rust-inhibiting primer and paint to the repaired area to prevent future corrosion. Farm-grade enamel or cold galv spray are both good options available at rural supply stores.
Is a Welding Consent or Certification Required?
For a farm hay feeder, there is no building consent or certification required under the NZ Building Code — this is not structural building work. Welding on farm equipment is not restricted trade work in the same way that electrical or gas work is. However, if you are welding pressure vessels, trailers for road use, or structural building elements, different rules apply. When in doubt, check with your local council or a qualified tradesperson.
When to Call a Professional
Consider hiring a qualified welder if:
- You've never welded before and the feeder is used by large cattle or horses (a failed weld can injure animals)
- The steel is heavily corroded or the damage is extensive
- You suspect the feeder is made from high-strength or hardened steel (less common, but some imported feeders use it)
- You need the repair certified for any reason
- You don't have access to the right safety gear
A skilled welder will complete this repair quickly and confidently. You can find qualified local welders and fabricators on tradedirectory.co.nz.
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