Yes, you can apply a sealant around the base of a toilet as a DIY task — but sealing the outside of the base is not a substitute for fixing the actual source of a leak. Understanding what's causing the moisture is the critical first step before reaching for the silicone gun.
Why Water Appears Around the Toilet Base
Before you waterproof anything, identify the source of the moisture. Common causes include:
- A failed wax or rubber pan collar seal between the toilet pan and the drainpipe (a plumbing issue)
- Condensation on the cistern or pan dripping down to the floor
- A cracked pan or cistern
- A loose or rocking toilet that has broken the pan collar seal
- Overflow or splash from normal use
- Failed grout or tile waterproofing around the base area
If the leak is coming from the drain connection underneath the toilet, do not simply seal around the outside of the base — this will trap sewage moisture under the toilet, cause subfloor damage, and mask a problem that will only get worse. That type of repair is restricted plumbing work and must be carried out by a licensed plumber.
What You Can Legally Do Yourself
As a homeowner in New Zealand, you are permitted to carry out general maintenance and cosmetic work. Applying a surface sealant or silicone bead around the exterior base of a toilet — where it meets the floor tiles — is generally considered cosmetic finishing work and is not restricted. However, any work that involves disconnecting or reconnecting the toilet pan to the drainpipe is restricted drainlaying/plumbing work under the Plumbers, Gasfitters and Drainlayers Act 2006. Always check with the Plumbers Gasfitters & Drainlayers Board if you are unsure about the scope of work.
How to Seal Around a Toilet Base (DIY Steps)
Once you've confirmed the leak is not from the drain connection, here's how to apply a proper seal around the toilet base:
What You'll Need
- Neutral-cure silicone sealant (sanitary grade, mould-resistant)
- Silicone remover or a sharp scraper
- Isopropyl alcohol or surface cleaner
- Masking tape
- A caulking gun
- A damp cloth or sealant smoothing tool
Step-by-Step
- Remove old sealant using a scraper or silicone remover. Make sure the surface is completely clean and dry — any moisture will prevent adhesion.
- Clean the area thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol and allow it to dry fully.
- Apply masking tape on both sides of the joint line for a neat finish.
- Load your caulking gun with a sanitary-grade, mould-resistant silicone. Products from Sika or similar trusted brands are widely available at Bunnings or Mitre 10.
- Apply a continuous bead of silicone around the full perimeter of the toilet base where it meets the floor.
- Smooth the bead with a wet finger or tool, then remove the masking tape before the silicone skins over.
- Leave a small gap — some tradespeople recommend leaving a short section at the back unsealed so that if a pan collar leak does develop in future, water can escape and alert you rather than pooling invisibly underneath.
- Allow to cure fully before using the toilet — check the manufacturer's instructions, but typically 24 hours.
Choosing the Right Sealant
Always use a sanitary-grade, mould-resistant silicone for wet areas. Standard acrylic gap filler is not suitable — it will absorb moisture, crack, and grow mould quickly. Look for products labelled for bathroom or wet-area use. Neutral-cure silicones are generally better around some surfaces than acetoxy-cure types (which smell strongly of vinegar during curing).
Waterproofing the Surrounding Floor Area
If you're renovating a bathroom or the tiles around the toilet base are cracked or poorly grouted, this is a good time to address the broader waterproofing. Under NZ Building Code clause E3 (Internal Moisture), wet areas like bathrooms require appropriate waterproofing membranes under tiled surfaces. Products from Ardex or Mapei are commonly used by professional waterproofers for under-tile membrane systems. For a full bathroom re-tile or waterproofing job, consult BRANZ guidance or hire a qualified waterproofer.
Building Consent Considerations
Simply sealing around a toilet base does not require a building consent. However, if you are replacing a toilet, relocating it, or doing significant bathroom renovation work, you may need consent — and some work will require licensed tradespeople regardless. Always confirm with your local council, as exemptions under Schedule 1 of the Building Act 2004 have specific conditions. The MBIE Building Performance website is a reliable starting point.
When to Call a Professional
Call a licensed plumber or drainlayer if:
- Water smells like sewage — this strongly suggests a failed pan collar seal
- The toilet rocks or moves when you sit on it
- Water appears after flushing (not just condensation)
- You notice staining or soft spots on the subfloor around the toilet
- You need to lift the toilet to inspect or replace the pan collar
Call a qualified waterproofer or tiler if the surrounding tile grout is cracked, tiles are lifting, or you suspect the waterproofing membrane beneath the tiles has failed.
You can find licensed local plumbers and waterproofers in your area on tradedirectory.co.nz.


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