Yes, you can use screws instead of nails for fence palings — and in many situations, screws are actually the better choice. That said, not just any screw will do. Using the wrong type can lead to corrosion, splitting, or palings that work loose over time. Here's what you need to know to get it right.
Screws vs Nails: What's the Real Difference?
Both screws and nails are widely used for fixing timber fence palings in New Zealand, but they behave differently under load:
- Nails resist shear (sideways) forces well and are fast to install with a nail gun. They flex slightly with timber movement, which can be an advantage.
- Screws resist withdrawal (pull-out) forces much better than nails, meaning palings are less likely to work loose over time as the timber dries and shrinks.
- Screws also make it far easier to remove and replace individual palings later — a big practical advantage.
For most residential fence palings, screws offer a neat, secure, long-lasting fix, especially if you're working by hand rather than with a nail gun.
Can You Use Decking Screws Specifically?
Decking screws are designed for fixing hardwood or treated pine decking boards, so they share some useful qualities with what you need for fence palings:
- Coarse thread for good grip in softwood and treated timber
- Countersinking head that sits flush or just below the surface
- Typically available in stainless steel or hot-dipped galvanised (HDG) coatings
Decking screws can work well for fence palings, but check these points before you buy:
1. Corrosion Resistance Is Non-Negotiable
NZ's coastal salt air, rain, and humidity are tough on fixings. Using the wrong screw will cause rust staining on your timber and eventual fixing failure. For fence palings:
- Treated pine (H3.1 or H3.2): Use hot-dipped galvanised (HDG) or stainless steel (Grade 304 or 316) screws. Standard zinc-plated or bright steel screws will corrode rapidly when in contact with treated timber preservatives.
- Hardwoods (e.g., kwila, tōtara): Stainless steel is preferred, as some hardwood tannins react with galvanised coatings.
- Coastal locations (within ~500 m of the sea): Use Grade 316 stainless steel for maximum corrosion resistance.
Always check the screw manufacturer's datasheet or the BRANZ guidelines if you're unsure which fixing grade suits your timber and location.
2. Length and Diameter
As a general guide, screws for fence palings should penetrate the rail (the horizontal bearer) by at least the thickness of the paling itself — so if your paling is 19 mm thick, you want at least 19 mm of penetration into the rail beyond the paling. A 50 mm to 65 mm screw is typical for standard 100 mm × 19 mm pine palings on 45 mm rails, but always measure your own materials.
Use two screws per paling per rail to prevent twisting and cupping over time.
3. Pre-Drilling to Prevent Splitting
Thin or dry palings — especially hardwoods — can split if you drive screws in without pre-drilling. Use a drill bit slightly smaller than the screw shank and countersink the head neatly. Many decking screws have a self-countersinking tip that reduces (but doesn't always eliminate) the need for pre-drilling near paling ends.
What About Nail Guns — Are They Still Worth It?
If you're fencing a large area, a pneumatic nail gun with ring-shank or spiral-shank galvanised nails is still the trade standard for speed. Ring-shank nails offer significantly better withdrawal resistance than smooth-shank nails and close the gap with screws on holding power. For a DIY weekend project with a modest number of palings, screws and a cordless drill/driver are perfectly practical.
Timber Treatment and the NZ Building Code
Fence palings in ground-contact or exposed situations must use the correct Hazard Class of treated timber under NZS 3602 (or confirm the applicable standard with your supplier or council) and the NZ Building Code. For above-ground fence palings not in contact with the ground, H3.1 treated pine is the typical minimum. Your fixings must be compatible with that treatment — another reason to avoid cheap zinc-plated screws.
Note that most residential boundary fences under 2 m high are exempt from building consent under Schedule 1 of the Building Act, but it's always worth confirming with your local council, as rules can vary.
Practical Tips for a Neat Finish
- Snap a chalk line along your rails before fixing to keep palings at a consistent height.
- Leave a 3–5 mm gap between palings to allow for timber swelling in wet weather (unless you're going for a no-gap look, in which case use dry-dressed timber).
- Countersink screw heads just below the surface and fill with an exterior-grade filler if you want a painted finish.
- Store your screws in a dry place — even stainless screws can surface-rust if left in a damp bucket.
You can find a good range of suitable screws and treated timber at Bunnings, Mitre 10, or PlaceMakers.
When to Call a Professional
Fencing is generally DIY-friendly, but consider hiring a qualified fencer if:
- Your fence is over 2 m high (building consent may be required — check with your council)
- You're working near power lines — contact your lines company and review WorkSafe NZ guidance before doing anything near overhead wires
- The ground is uneven, sloped, or requires concrete post footings
- You want a guaranteed, weathertight result on a boundary fence that could become a neighbourly dispute
A skilled local fencer will have the right tools, fixings, and timber knowledge to get the job done efficiently. You can find qualified fencing tradespeople in your area on tradedirectory.co.nz.
