Using a ladder to prune high branches is one of the most common causes of serious falls in New Zealand backyards — and in many situations, it simply isn't safe to do yourself. While light pruning of low branches is a reasonable DIY task, working at height with cutting tools introduces risks that can quickly become life-threatening. Here's what you need to know before you reach for the ladder.
Why Ladder Pruning Is Riskier Than It Looks
Ladders and chainsaws (or even loppers) are a notoriously dangerous combination. The key hazards include:
- Unstable footing — tree roots, uneven ground, and wet grass make ladder placement unpredictable
- Kickback and recoil — a pruning saw or chainsaw can kick back unexpectedly, throwing you off balance
- Falling branches — a cut branch rarely falls exactly where you expect, and the weight can knock a ladder sideways
- Overreaching — leaning out to reach a branch shifts your centre of gravity beyond the ladder's safe working zone
- Fatigue — working overhead with tools is physically demanding and errors increase as you tire
WorkSafe NZ identifies falls from height as one of the leading causes of serious injury and death in New Zealand. Even a fall from 2–3 metres can be fatal.
What the Rules Say About Working at Height
For homeowners doing their own work, there is no specific law that bans you from using a ladder in your own garden. However, WorkSafe NZ guidelines strongly recommend that any work above 3 metres be treated with extreme caution and, where possible, handed to a professional with the right equipment and training.
If you are a landlord or managing a rental property, Healthy Homes obligations and general duty-of-care requirements mean you should always use qualified contractors for hazardous tasks like tree work.
When DIY Ladder Pruning Might Be Acceptable
There are limited situations where a homeowner can reasonably use a ladder for pruning:
- The branch is no higher than 2–3 metres from the ground
- You are using hand tools only (loppers, hand saw, or pruning shears — not a chainsaw)
- The ladder is on firm, level ground and secured or footed by a second person
- The branch being removed is small in diameter (generally under 50 mm) and lightweight
- There is no risk of the branch falling onto people, structures, or power lines
Even in these cases, always follow the three points of contact rule on the ladder, wear a helmet, safety glasses, and gloves, and never work alone.
Gear That Can Help — But Isn't a Silver Bullet
Some tools can reduce (but not eliminate) the need to climb high:
- Pole pruners and pole saws — extendable handles let you reach branches from the ground, up to around 4–5 metres depending on the model. Available from Bunnings or Mitre 10.
- Cordless pole saws — battery-powered versions give more cutting power for thicker branches
- Orchard ladders (tripod ladders) — more stable than a standard ladder on uneven ground, but still require care
Pole tools are generally the safer DIY option for reaching branches that are just out of arm's reach.
The Chainsaw Rule: Don't Use One on a Ladder
This deserves its own section: never use a chainsaw while standing on a ladder. This is widely regarded by arborists and safety professionals as an unacceptably dangerous practice. Chainsaws can kick back with tremendous force, and the combination of that force with an unstable platform is extremely hazardous. If a branch requires a chainsaw to remove it, that job belongs with a qualified arborist.
Power Lines: An Absolute No-Go Zone
If any branch is near or touching power lines, do not attempt the work yourself under any circumstances. Contact your lines company first — in many cases they have obligations to manage vegetation near their infrastructure. Working near live power lines without proper training and equipment can be fatal.
When to Call a Professional
You should always engage a qualified arborist for:
- Any pruning work above 3 metres
- Branches near or over power lines, roofs, fences, or neighbouring properties
- Large or heavy branches that require rigging to control their fall
- Dead, diseased, or structurally compromised trees (which can behave unpredictably when cut)
- Any job requiring a chainsaw at height
- Situations where a building consent may be required — for example, some councils have rules around removing protected or notable trees, so always check with your local council before removing significant trees
A qualified arborist will have the training, personal protective equipment, and often specialist equipment like elevated work platforms (cherry pickers) or climbing gear to do the job safely. You can find qualified local arborists on tradedirectory.co.nz.
A Note on Costs
As a rough guide, professional arborist pruning in New Zealand can range from a few hundred dollars for a small job to well over a thousand dollars for large or complex trees. Getting two or three quotes is always a good idea. The cost of professional help is far less than the cost of a serious injury — or the liability of a branch falling on a neighbour's property.
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