Yes, a jigsaw can absolutely be used to cut laminate flooring — and with the right blade and a bit of technique, you can get clean, chip-free results. It's especially handy for curved cuts around door frames, pipes, and awkward corners where a mitre saw or table saw simply can't reach.
Why Chipping Happens (and How to Prevent It)
Laminate flooring has a hard, decorative wear layer on top that is prone to tear-out when cut. The key culprit is usually the wrong blade or cutting in the wrong direction. A standard wood-cutting jigsaw blade cuts on the upstroke, which means the teeth pull upward through the material — right through your decorative surface — causing chips and splintering on the face.
The good news is this is easy to fix.
Choosing the Right Jigsaw Blade
Blade selection is the single most important factor for a clean cut. Here's what to look for:
- Downstroke (reverse-tooth) blades — These cut on the downstroke, so any tear-out happens on the underside of the board, leaving the face surface clean. Look for blades labelled "reverse tooth" or "downcut" at your local Bunnings or Mitre 10.
- Fine-tooth blades — Choose a blade with at least 10 TPI (teeth per inch), ideally more. Finer teeth mean smaller cuts and less chipping.
- Laminate-specific blades — Some manufacturers produce blades specifically for laminate and melamine. These are worth the small extra cost.
Avoid coarse wood-cutting blades — they're designed for speed, not finish quality.
Step-by-Step: Cutting Laminate With a Jigsaw
1. Mark Your Cut Clearly
Use a pencil and a straight edge or square to mark your cut line accurately. For curved cuts (like around a toilet base), make a cardboard template first.
2. Set Up Your Workpiece
Support the board on a stable surface — a workbench or a couple of sawhorses work well. Make sure the board is secure and won't shift mid-cut. Leave enough overhang so the jigsaw base plate can move freely.
3. Face Down or Face Up?
This depends on your blade:
- Reverse-tooth (downcut) blade → cut face up — the blade tears out on the bottom.
- Standard upcut blade → cut face down — the blade tears out on the top, which will be hidden.
Using a reverse-tooth blade and cutting face-up is generally the easiest approach for most DIYers.
4. Apply Masking Tape
For extra insurance, apply a strip of painter's masking tape along your cut line before marking and cutting. This helps hold the surface fibres together and significantly reduces chipping, especially on the edges.
5. Score the Cut Line (Optional)
For very clean edges, lightly score along the cut line with a sharp utility knife before cutting. This severs the surface layer cleanly before the blade gets there.
6. Cut at a Steady, Moderate Speed
Let the blade do the work — don't force it. Use a medium jigsaw speed setting and move the saw steadily along the line. Going too fast increases vibration and chipping; too slow can cause burning.
7. Use the Orbital Setting Wisely
Most jigsaws have an orbital action setting. For laminate, set this to zero or the lowest setting. Higher orbital action is great for fast rough cuts in timber but increases tear-out on hard laminate surfaces.
Comparing Cutting Tools for Laminate
| Tool | Best For | Chip Risk | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Jigsaw (reverse blade) | Curves, notches, pipe holes | Low | Versatile, great for awkward cuts |
| Mitre/drop saw | Straight crosscuts | Low–Medium | Fast and accurate for straight cuts |
| Table saw | Ripping long lengths | Low | Best for long straight cuts |
| Circular saw | Straight cuts on site | Medium | Use fine-tooth blade, cut face down |
| Laminate cutter (guillotine) | Straight cuts only | Very low | No dust, quiet — popular on site |
For most DIY installs, a combination of a mitre saw for straight cuts and a jigsaw for curves and notches covers everything you'll need.
Dust and Safety
Laminate flooring produces very fine dust when cut, which can be harmful if inhaled. Always:
- Wear a P2 dust mask (not just a paper dust mask)
- Use safety glasses — fine chips can fly at speed
- Work in a well-ventilated area or outdoors where possible
- Connect your jigsaw to a dust extractor if your tool supports it
Check WorkSafe NZ for guidance on managing dust exposure safely in your workspace.
NZ-Specific Installation Tips
Laminate flooring in New Zealand needs to account for our variable humidity — from humid summers in Northland to dry Central Otago winters. Always:
- Acclimatise your flooring for at least 48 hours in the room before installation
- Leave the expansion gap around the perimeter as specified by the manufacturer (typically 8–12 mm)
- Check that your subfloor moisture levels are within the manufacturer's tolerances — this is especially important in NZ homes with suspended timber floors
For healthy homes rental properties, flooring must also meet underfloor insulation requirements under the Tenancy Services Healthy Homes standards.
When to Call a Professional
Cutting laminate flooring is well within the scope of a confident DIYer. However, consider hiring a qualified flooring installer if:
- You're laying flooring over a large or complex area and want a guaranteed finish
- Your subfloor has moisture issues, height variations, or structural concerns
- You're unsure about underlay requirements or floating floor systems
- The job involves removing existing floor coverings that may contain older vinyl or adhesives (which could contain asbestos in homes built before the 1990s — get this tested before disturbing it)
You can find experienced local flooring installers on tradedirectory.co.nz.
