Yes, routing a hinge recess (also called a hinge mortise or hinge housing) is one of the more achievable joinery tasks for a capable DIYer — but it does require patience, the right tools, and a practice run before you touch your actual door. Rushing in without preparation is the most common cause of chipped timber, uneven recesses, and doors that won't hang properly.
What You'll Need
Before you start, gather the following:
- Plunge router (a fixed-base router can work but a plunge router gives better control)
- Straight router bit — a sharp, quality bit in the correct diameter (typically 12 mm or 19 mm)
- Hinge template or guide jig (highly recommended — see below)
- Marking gauge or sharp pencil and combination square
- Sharp wood chisel (12 mm or 25 mm) and mallet
- Router speed guide from the bit manufacturer
- Clamps and a sturdy workbench or door horses
- Safety glasses and hearing protection
You can find routers, bits, and accessories at Bunnings or Mitre 10. Quality makes a real difference with router bits — a cheap bit will tear the timber grain rather than cut cleanly.
Understanding the Hinge Recess
A hinge recess is a shallow, flat-bottomed pocket cut into the edge of the door (and the door frame/jamb) so the hinge leaf sits flush with the timber surface. The depth of the recess equals the thickness of one hinge leaf — typically 2–3 mm for standard butt hinges used on interior doors in NZ.
The width and height of the recess must match the hinge leaf exactly. Getting this wrong means the door will either bind (recess too shallow) or have a visible gap (recess too deep).
Step-by-Step: Routing the Recess
1. Mark Out the Hinge Position
Standard NZ practice for interior doors is to position hinges approximately 175 mm from the top of the door and 250 mm from the bottom, with a third hinge centred between them on taller or heavier doors. Always check the door manufacturer's recommendations.
Use a marking gauge to scribe the depth line along the door edge, and a square and pencil to mark the hinge width and length accurately.
2. Set Up a Hinge Template or Fence
A hinge routing template (a simple jig that clamps to the door edge and guides the router) is strongly recommended if you haven't done this before. These are available at hardware stores or you can make one from MDF offcuts. The template keeps the router from wandering outside your marked lines.
If you're using a straight fence guide instead, clamp a straight batten firmly to the door face to act as a guide rail.
3. Practice on Scrap Timber First
This step is non-negotiable if you're inexperienced. Use a piece of scrap timber the same species and thickness as your door stile. Set your router depth to match the hinge leaf thickness, run the router, and check the result with the actual hinge before touching the door.
4. Rout the Recess
- Clamp the door securely on its edge — door horses or a workbench vice work well.
- Set the router bit depth carefully using a depth gauge or by placing the hinge leaf against the bit.
- Rout in multiple shallow passes if the timber is hard (e.g., rimu, matai, or hardwood-faced doors) — don't try to reach full depth in one pass.
- Work from left to right (with the grain where possible) and keep the router moving steadily.
- Leave the corners slightly rounded from the bit — you'll square these up with a chisel.
5. Chisel the Corners Square
Router bits leave rounded corners. Use a sharp chisel to pare the corners square so the hinge leaf fits snugly. Work carefully — a sharp chisel needs only light mallet taps.
6. Test-Fit the Hinge
The hinge leaf should sit perfectly flush — no rocking, no proud edges. If it's slightly too shallow, take another fine router pass or pare with the chisel. If it's too deep, you'll need to pack it with a thin card or timber shim.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
| Mistake | Result | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Recess too deep | Door binds on latch side | Pack with card shim behind hinge |
| Recess too shallow | Hinge proud, door won't close flush | Deepen with router or chisel |
| Recess too wide | Hinge rattles, looks untidy | Fill with epoxy filler, re-rout |
| Tear-out on face grain | Visible damage | Use sharp bit, score lines with chisel first |
Safety First
Routers are powerful tools that demand respect. Always:
- Wear safety glasses and hearing protection
- Ensure the router bit is properly secured before starting
- Keep hands well clear of the bit path
- Unplug the router before changing bits or adjusting depth
- Check WorkSafe NZ guidance on safe power tool use
When to Call a Professional
Routing hinge recesses is not restricted work under NZ law — any homeowner can do it. However, consider calling a qualified joiner or carpenter if:
- You're working on an exterior door (weathertightness and security are critical)
- The door is solid hardwood, fire-rated, or pre-finished (mistakes are costly)
- You need to hang multiple doors and want a consistent, professional result
- You're uncomfortable with power tools or don't have access to the right equipment
A skilled joiner will have a dedicated hinge-routing jig and can complete the job quickly and accurately. You can find qualified local joiners and carpenters on tradedirectory.co.nz.
For work involving structural door frames or load-bearing elements, check whether a building consent is required with your local council, or refer to MBIE Building Performance for guidance on Schedule 1 exemptions.
