Yes, resurfacing an old concrete path with pavers is a realistic DIY project for a capable homeowner — provided the existing concrete is structurally sound and you plan the job carefully. The key is preparation: a poorly prepped base will lead to uneven, rocking pavers within a season or two. Get it right and you'll have a durable, attractive path that can last decades.
Is Your Existing Concrete Suitable as a Base?
Before you buy a single paver, assess the condition of your concrete path. Walk the length of it and look for:
- Major cracks wider than about 5 mm, or cracks that show vertical movement (one side higher than the other)
- Heaving or subsidence — sections that have lifted or sunk
- Spalling or crumbling surfaces that crumble when you press them
- Poor drainage — water pooling on or beside the path
If the concrete has minor hairline cracks and is generally flat and stable, it makes an excellent rigid base for pavers. If it has significant structural problems, laying pavers on top will only hide the issue temporarily — the pavers will shift and crack as the concrete continues to move. In that case, you may be better off breaking out the old slab and starting fresh, which is a bigger job.
Planning: Height, Drainage and Consent
Adding pavers on top of your existing concrete will raise the finished surface height — typically by 30–50 mm depending on your paver thickness and bedding method. Check that this won't:
- Create a trip hazard at doorways or steps
- Cause water to pond against the house foundation or direct runoff toward the building (which could breach NZ Building Code clause E1 – Surface Water)
- Interfere with existing drainage channels or grates
For a straightforward garden path, a building consent is generally not required under Schedule 1 of the Building Act 2004. However, rules vary by council and by how the path connects to other structures, so always confirm with your local council before starting. You can find general guidance at MBIE Building Performance.
What You'll Need
Materials:
- Concrete pavers, clay bricks, or natural stone (sized to suit your path width with minimal cutting)
- Coarse bedding sand or a dry mortar mix (for a semi-dry bed)
- Paver adhesive or mortar (for edge restraints or bonding to concrete)
- Jointing sand or polymeric sand
- Edge restraints (if the path has open sides)
Tools:
- Tape measure, string line and spirit level
- Rubber mallet
- Angle grinder or paver saw (for cuts — wear eye and ear protection)
- Broom and plate compactor (hire one if needed)
- Safety glasses, gloves, knee pads
You'll find a good range of pavers and tools at Bunnings and Mitre 10, and building supplies including sand and cement at PlaceMakers.
Step-by-Step: Laying Pavers Over Concrete
1. Clean and Repair the Concrete
Scrub the surface clean of moss, lichen, oil and dirt. Fill minor cracks with a suitable concrete filler and allow to cure fully. A clean, sound surface bonds better and gives you an accurate level to work from.
2. Check and Adjust Falls
Use a spirit level and straight edge to check the existing fall (slope) of the path. Paths should fall away from buildings at a minimum of about 1:100 (1 cm drop per metre). If the existing concrete falls the wrong way, you can correct this slightly with your bedding layer — but only by a small amount.
3. Choose Your Bedding Method
There are two common approaches when laying over concrete:
| Method | How it works | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Sand bed | 20–30 mm of coarse bedding sand screeded level | Flexible, easy to adjust, suits most pavers |
| Mortar/adhesive bed | Pavers bonded directly to concrete with mortar or paver adhesive | Thin pavers, high-traffic areas, slopes |
For most DIY paths, a sand bed is forgiving and easier to work with. Use coarse washed sand (not fine beach sand), screeded to a consistent depth.
4. Lay the Pavers
Start from a fixed edge (e.g., a wall or step) and work outward. Use a string line to keep rows straight. Tap each paver firmly with a rubber mallet and check regularly with your spirit level. Maintain consistent joint gaps of 2–5 mm for jointing sand.
5. Cut Pavers to Fit
Use an angle grinder with a diamond blade or hire a paver saw for cuts. Always wear eye protection, hearing protection and a dust mask — cutting concrete pavers creates fine silica dust, which is a serious health hazard. See WorkSafe NZ for guidance on working safely with silica dust.
6. Compact and Fill Joints
Once all pavers are laid, run a plate compactor over the surface (hire one from a local hire shop) to bed them in firmly. Sweep jointing sand or polymeric sand into the joints, compact again, and top up as needed. Polymeric sand sets firm and resists weeds and ants.
7. Edge Restraints
If your path has open sides (no wall or lawn edging), install edge restraints to stop pavers spreading over time. These can be mortared in place or secured with metal or plastic edging stakes.
When to Call a Professional
Consider hiring a qualified landscaper if:
- The existing concrete has significant structural damage or drainage problems
- The path is on a steep slope or near a retaining wall
- You need to integrate the path with steps, drainage channels or other structures
- The job involves redirecting stormwater (which may require a licensed drainlayer — check with the Plumbers Gasfitters & Drainlayers Board)
- You simply want the job done to a high standard with a warranty
A professional landscaper will have the tools, experience and eye for detail to get the levels and drainage exactly right. You can find qualified local landscapers on tradedirectory.co.nz.
Licensed Building Practitioner (LBP)
